Greetings everyone! First let me say thanks to this sight I was inspired to get back into the AMC game. It's been a long time but Ive had a Javelin in my posession since I learned how to drive. (It's been a long time) I had to get rid if my last one because my wife (now ex) decided to become 20 again and..... Well anyway.
I was just about to purchase and eagle after lots of research when trout's (a member here) came up for sale. Let me just say that if you think having to sell your eagle after putting to a of time and money in it sucks, it can be worse. It's not my place to share his troubles but my thoughts are with him. I'm going to name this one Joy and it will be black and blue. It's a reminder that no matter how bad it gets, how black and blue life makes us some times we should try to remember to try to enjoy the time we have the best we can. If things are good savor it, enjoy it.
Thanks to Trout, to all his hard work, and hope he can find joy when and where he can.
Ill try to remember too. I've had a string of unfortunate things and it can be hard, but it's good to try.
Well I was lucky to cross paths with him and his eagle. I've had it for a couple of month and have been working in it recently and want to share and give back a little to all the kind people here. Many have offered kind and helpful advice and I have been inspired by all. I hope that I can inspire others.
So the plans for the finished product are going to be an evolution of modifications ending up with a 4.0l (stroker maybe) ax15, np 242, 8.25 3.55 rear. One of the main goals is going to be for a fuel efficient, reliable, daily driver for me and the kids to explore the world with.
I post again shortly about where I'm at, what im doing and how it's going.
I got this Eagle from trout back when the weather was much better and it stayed outside at my girls friend. I was hoping to be able to work on it there but that didn't work the way I expected.
So what do you do if your eagles outside, the weathers not good and your girlfriend occupies the time you do have?.... Stay up late and collect parts for what you think your going to need. I really prefer standard transmissions so that was the first task. I posted questions here while I was looking and everyone was really helpful. Thanks.
So I have a set of spirit pedals, remote resivor, I bought a 1995 4.0L ax15 that came with an NP231. I was unable to get the harness from that donor vehicle so I picked up the PCM and harnass and the guy thru in an np242 for free.
So that was the parts, ill catch up with the work Ive done.
So I was up at 4:00 am AGIAN this morning and felt compelled to get something done dispite it being one of the coldest day of the year. -5 or so. My transmission was preped for removal so decided to drop it. I was expecting it to be a big mess and hard to do. Sometimes things things go better the. Expected. It come out smooth with No mess. Gotta be grateful when things go well.
I'm expecting to pick up my 8.25 3.55 geared rear end today. With the shock brackets. And that will give me my next project.
I'm caught in a dilemma. I've been going back and forth on which transmission to put in. The TF727 would be less expensive (it's ready to go in) and require less modifications.
But the 3.55 gears would play better with the ax15. A gearing calculator shows
727
2500 rpm = 59 mph
Ax15
2500 rpm = 75 mph
I prefer a highway cruiser with good milage.
I would be intrested in anyone's thoughts on a 727 with 3.55 gears.
I should mention to that I'm going to stay with the 258 for now. I'm going to be doing the 4.0 swap down the road.
If I had the $$ and the I would do it now. I figure the 258 is in and ready. I wouldn't have to fab the exhaust, although I have some questions there. It seems like I could get away with the down pipe that came with the 4.0 and run it on the inside of the the differential, in between the diff and the motor. I was thinking I could run a piece of flat stock run straight down and make spacers for the top bolt of diff bracket and spacers for the diff.
Ill take pictures to show what I mean.
Ugh too many choices. I go back and forth with all the options.
Not sure what to do but ill contemplate again while I'm putting in the rear end. Going to pick it up now.
Going to get picture posting ability asap
What size tires are you using? 3.55's with a 3 speed will be a little on the low side. With close to stock size tires, 3.07's would be the lowest that I would consider for a car that may go on the highway.
Oops sorry I should have mentioned. 225/75/15's
It was actully the first purchase I made for the car. A set of canyon rims and new 225/75/15's
"Joy" this eagle, actully has the 3.07 in the front. It was supposed to able the 3.07's in the back but they were actully the 2.35's. I just came home with the 8.25 - 3.55.going to install today/tonight. I have also collected a 3.55 front diff from a 4-cyl. After learning they were hard to find and they matched the rear gears. Haven't yet cleaned it up yet. I hope it's in good shape.
The numbers for a TF 727 and 3.55 still don't look to good. So I'm still leaning towards the ax15.
Ill be looking for a little guidance on modifying a set if spirit pedals to operate the hydraulic master that is ready to go in
Gotta get pics ready to go
Thanks for the input
Couldn't help myself, had to go out and place the 8.25. I located it and gently torqued u-bolts so it would be safer its now on jackstands, rear axle, floor jack and backed up with the tires. Now I can I could actually drag the transmission out from underneath the car. Checked the brakes. Their not as good as I hoped. I'll have to go through them. Wow it looks so much more rugged looking than the eagle rear. Ill look into locking it down and planning on brake lines and vent tomarrow morning.
It's been a while, but I think I just used the Eagle's brake line and had to bend it a little to get it to go around the pumpkin.
My Eagle just had the 4.0 / AW4 / NP242 / 8.25 w 3.55 done (still a few more things to complete). I went with the gear from a 94 XJ (OBD1).
The 4.0 is good as it is without stroking. My rear tires spin like it's nobodies business, it's awesome. Still have yet to get the proper driveshafts though. The 8.25 is a friggin beast under there, to the point that if you wanted to use a XJ gas tank it may not fit. I'm trying to figure what I'm going to do since the donor was a 94 XJ and right now I'm using a inline fuel pump and the sender isn't working right.
Might buy a new Eagle tank, mod it for the XJ sender and put in a replacement.
The driveshafts from the stock Eagle won't fit either. A rear XJ driveshaft cut down about 2" will work for the front, and a driveshaft 38" long is required for the rear. I think a Commanche rear might work but I haven't taken the time.
Wow nightpath that sounds really fun. So your swap was for the 4.0 EFI?
I have one on a stand I was thinking of doing an evolution. Start with the 258. Then the 4.0 carbedorated then to the EFI. Partly so get a sence of the differences between them all.
Currently I have the brake booster out and am alittle afraid of the wiring. The dash is out and I have just started to conciser the wiring. It's been doing some weird things. More on that later. Something weird with the headlight switch.
Question for ya, how was the wiring for the EFI? I was considering preparing for the EFi while I'm into figuring out the rest of it. I've read abunch about it. It doesn't seem too bad.
Mine wasn't an aftermarket EFI, mine was the wiring harness from the XJ which came from a OBD1 jeep. Much easier as there is less wiring.
I also took the whole steering column from the XJ, had to pull the slip off and cut a few inches but the XJ column fit just like the Eagle. The connectors are the same for the most part except for the wiper which is on the steering column in the XJ, and on the dash for the Eagle. A few other things, like defroster and the heating wiring is different but easy to figure as well (as is the wipers).
The XJ wiring is a tight squeeze but very doable.
I have a build thread (needs updating and pics) that may be of some help.
http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43968.0
If I were to do it over again I'm not sure how I'd do it. The engine is the same size wise, but the tunnel will need to be cut at the rear for the transfer case to fit right. Might be able to beat it a LOT with a hammer, but I think the AX15 is smaller than the AW4 which would help a lot.
When you do it, move the battery tray from the passenger to the drivers side. You will thank me later. It gives the room needed for the stock fans from an XJ to fit if that's what you're using.
I would go for the throat and slop in the 4.0 if I were you. Carb it up to start, when you go fuel injected you will need a computer from a YJ with the 4.0 and a manual transmission. It'll give you time to see the route you want to take.
I cannot say I'm not tempted to do the full 4.0l right now.
I'm going to post a couple of questions about the exaust. If I can get away with the idea I'm thinking of (getting the exhaust to run in the inside between the diff and the engine. I might just go for it.
I'm going to prepare the intake for installation on the 4.0. It realy doesn't seem like that much more work than I'm already into and I have to say I'm excited to get to the 4.0. From what Ive ready and what you said the difference between the 258 and the 4.0 are significant!!
It's snowing hard here at the moment but I'm thinking about going out to so some work after my kids go to sleep. If not tonight ill be up early.
Snowing hard where I am too, Nova Scotia. Blizzard actually.
The intake/exhaust fit fine, and the exhaust itself actually fits around the front diff like it was made for the Eagle (from the XJ). It is such a beautiful thing.
Hi again nightpath did your exaust pass between the front diff and the engine?
Did you have to delet your egr?
I dry fitted my ax15 this morning an am leaning toward going with the tf727 and NP229 just because I'm not sure I can do all the fabrication required for the ax15 and np242 with the time and money I have right now.
The plus side to that is I might be able to swap in the 4.0.
Which water pump do you need to go with? Other than the water pump and fitting the intake (going carborated for now) and a low pressure fuel pump is there anything else?
Blizzard? I can imagine its blowing hard hard but no snow. Did you get much snow?
On the waterpump, it depends what accessories you're running. I'm going to '93 Grand Cherokee serpentine belt setup (once I track down all my spare parts) so I need to run the Grand Cherokee waterpump and fan.
I was out this morning didn't realize it was -10 F. Felt cold but not that cold!!
Im still looking at possible rear crossmember mods to make the Ax15 work.
It seams like the rear most bolt holes are over the rear most part of the stock crossmember.
This is making me think I could use rubber bushing/isolation mount. I really need to get pictures going so I can show what I'm talking about. More shortly
I would like to see your idea as well. My first attempt to make my own trans mount failed.
I put one in an FSJ and just moved the crossmember back but that's different. Napa has One listed for the Wranglers only BK 6201198 (searched for the pic on napaonline.com ) I think that's what I used for simplicity.
When I bolted my NP208 to the AX-15 or AW4 I used a 1" thick (almost) clocking ring. It would also work for AW4 to Eagle tcase, BUT everything will be 4" further back than stock. (that was why I considered using all XJ stuff with ZJ/YJ/TJ waterpump and cooling fan and moving the motor forward a bit in my Jeep. Not that easy in Eagles)
<a href="http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa6bb92ed.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa6bb92ed.jpg" border="0" alt="Outside in nice weather photo image_zpsa6bb92ed.jpg"/></a>
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa6bb92ed.jpg)
Wow carnuck. Nice eagle. It looks like mine. What a min....just kidding. Thanks I must have not done a final step. I need to look into what I didn't do.
So I was out again this morning and pulled the ax15. I took some pictures and will discribe my thoughts on the rear crossmember mod ideas but I'm wanting to move forward. I think I need shift gears and go ahead with the 727/229 to get up and running than go back for the manual swap. :( it's not the route I want to take but it would be the fastest and cheapest even if I have to get another rear axle. Ugh. At least it's a bolt up.
Maybe I need to find another eagle to do the swap on so I would have the time. I really need to get up and running.
So after pulling the ax15 i started in on finding the right position for the torque converter to bolt up. I had to stop because my hands weren't working well in the 10 degree weather.
You used the wrong code is all. :) You need [ img ] in front of the url and [ /img ] behind (without the extra spaces I used to make it visible) You could use the bottom link on PB but it tends to mess with the html code of some sites because it's trying to do popups. If you quote my post it will show you what I did. The resizing numbers are done automatically on this site.
As for the converter, I think you mean you have an AW4 automatic and not an AX-15 std trans. (you have to run the AW4 flexplate and starter if it is)
AX-15 has a flywheel and clutch. Not a converter.
Thank you, I'll try again, I have a number if pictures I would like to post and well as to show my progression.
Sorry for the confusition on the transmissions I have two
An ax15 and a TF727
I have three transfer cases. A np229, a NP231, and a Np242
I would really like to run the ax15 and NP242 but I may have to put in the TF 727 and NP229 just because its faster and would take less modifications. I keep going back and forth.
I would also like to put in the 4.0 that I have. Time wize I keep going back to keeping the 4.2 (for now)
TF727 and NP229.
Pictures can be added without using photobucket as a host. Look underneath your posting box click attachments and other options. Browse your computer or mobil device for whatever picture you want. And it is uploaded here. Keeps a third party out of the loop so it is easier.
here is the end result. I only had 4 pics on this device to choose from .
Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on February 17, 2015, 01:14:03 PM
Thank you, I'll try again, I have a number if pictures I would like to post and well as to show my progression.
Sorry for the confusition on the transmissions I have two
An ax15 and a TF727
I have three transfer cases. A np229, a NP231, and a Np242
I would really like to run the ax15 and NP242 but I may have to put in the TF 727 and NP229 just because its faster and would take less modifications. I keep going back and forth.
I would also like to put in the 4.0 that I have. Time wize I keep going back to keeping the 4.2 (for now)
TF727 and NP229.
What were you talking about lining up the converter then?
If all 3 of your cases are NP and none are NV then the 229 is 23 spline and the other 2 are 21 spline. AX-15 is 23 spline output. AX-5 is 21 spline but fits the 2.5 and 2.8, not 4.0 or 4.2.
Hi again, I appreciate your time and help. Ill double check the transfer cases I may have been improper with the designations. The 231 came with the ax15 I bought and the 242 came out of an 95 Cherokee.
Ill verify
I may have also miss spoken when I said converter. I meant torque converter for the TF727. I made a paper template of the holes to I could mark a new torque converters proper location on the flex plate . If I go that way.
As for the rear cross member modifications for the ax15 I'm really looking forward to showing my ideas so that I could get some feed back from those more experienced than me.
Basically what I was thinking is that two of the transmission mount holes on the ax15 lines up right In the middle of the crossmember. So my thought was trying to fit some isolation pads or better yet the mount you shared thru the top of the crossmember (removing material) so that they bolt to the bottom plate .
Ill sent pictures
Thanks again
Ok Trying to post photos
My frozen (all be it dry And not windy) work space and Joy's home
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsad38db36.jpg)
Thanks carnuck!! For helping getting pic posted. So for the rearcross member modification for the ax15
Here's the stock crossmember for the eagle. (Nevermind the front crossmember)
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsd910a7df.jpg)
Now for the ax15 in a jeep
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6fd70128.jpg)
Ok now for the ax15 in my eagle
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5d1d5819.jpg)
Ok here we go. Notice in the jeep picture the four bolt that hold the (offset) transmission mount plate.
Two of them are directly over the eagle rear crossmember.
This is the view of the 4 bolts from underneath. The four bolts that hold the transmission mount/plate
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/image_zpsfdab624a.jpg)
Here are the rear most bolt (ax15) transmission mount holes lining up with the middle of the eagle rear crossmber.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/image_zps2e4615bd.jpg)
So here's my thought.
The vertical clearances are tight so if the mating surface between the transmission and the crossmber were machined to allow a transmission mount or bushing be fitted in the crossmember to mount the transmission to the lower (inside) surface of the crossmember.
Not sure how clear that was but feel free to ask questions, comment, critique or Criticize.
I would be happy to hear any and all thoughts.
These are the kind of isolation pads I was thinking.
They would have to be the right thickness to go from the machined pocket in the top of the crossmember to the bottom of the inside of the crossmember.
Not sure if I'm expressing my ideas well enough. Ill try to take pictures in a mock up to show an example of what I mean. Picture is worth 1,000 words
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/image_zps623426bb.jpg)[/URL]
This was the work for the morning. Finding the proper position for the torque converter.
Had to try three times befor I got the right orientation.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/image_zpsf304bd6e.jpg)
Although Im going to end up with the 4.0 ax15 I think time and money wise I'm going
To have to so it in phases.
I'm going to prepare the clutch master slave. Plan for the rear crossmember mods.
But I'm going to have to go with the 4.2, 727 for now.
I would like to document preformance charituristics of different configurations so a comparison of each can be made for a reference fort self and others
That is not isolating it from what i see but rather clamping it to the cross member. The trans mount floats it in rubber, not clamp it.
Your right mudkicker the proper ones would be the type that was more like a vibration isolator, where the actual mounting points were not thru but rather molded into the top and bottom. It would look similar but there would be no need for the bottoms ones. could even use the actual transmission mount carnuck suggested alittle earlier in this thread.
What I'm reall looking at would be the configuration with the cross member. Where the mount would be kinda inside the crossmember. It's hard for me explain exactly what I mean. So ill try to take more picture.
Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on February 18, 2015, 08:10:10 AM
This was the work for the morning. Finding the proper position for the torque converter.
Had to try three times befor I got the right orientation.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/image_zpsf304bd6e.jpg)
Although Im going to end up with the 4.0 ax15 I think time and money wise I'm going
To have to so it in phases.
I'm going to prepare the clutch master slave. Plan for the rear crossmember mods.
But I'm going to have to go with the 4.2, 727 for now.
I would like to document preformance charituristics of different configurations so a comparison of each can be made for a reference fort self and others
If you spritz a little paint through the flexplate hole with the converter aligned it makes it easier. I meant to say before that if the 727 comes from a Grand Wagoneer built '87 or newer, the flexplate won't line up to yours. Do you have a lockup converter and trans? That helps a bit for highway driving. You can't just put a lockup converter on a non-lock trans however.
Top is lockup and bottom is non-lock.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/carnuck/tech/LockupVsNon.jpg)
Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on February 18, 2015, 08:44:05 AM
Your right mudkicker the proper ones would be the type that was more like a vibration isolator, where the actual mounting points were not thru but rather molded into the top and bottom. It would look similar but there would be no need for the bottoms ones. could even use the actual transmission mount carnuck suggested alittle earlier in this thread.
What I'm reall looking at would be the configuration with the cross member. Where the mount would be kinda inside the crossmember. It's hard for me explain exactly what I mean. So ill try to take more picture.
I was thinking cut open the top of the crossmember and tucking the mount into it IF it won't hit elsewhere. You would need to add some bracing to the crossmember after that. On SOTE we used the XJ trans crossmember and put spacers up to the floor (rather inelegant but functional)
Must be winter when the temp isn't in the single digits is warm.
I didn't get much done this morning. Looks like I have the non lock up. Tf727. The torque I have bolted to the flex plate from the stock auto tranny. I want to fit it so I could follow the suggestion of painting it while it was bolted in the proper position.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0201cead.jpg)
How would one tell the differance between a non lockup and a lockup torque converter?
I was also following up on the manual transmission swap in Parallel with the auto install.
Wow wee if this is were the master clutch cylinder goes there really isn't much room to put it in the wrong place.
It can really only move around less than 1/4 in!
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfc118522.jpg)
There is a tag on the converter or you can look down inside and make sure it's splined all the way to the bottom.
Thanks again Carnuck. I really appriciate your help, your knowlage, And your time. Really to every one here and this sight. It's a really great place! Not sure I can say it enough.
I really liked AMC's when I was younger and it's great to be back. I like Turing wrenches and the eagles den is such a great reasource, it is so helpful to have input from kind people with lots of Experiance and similar interests. It makes working on them alot easier.
The help, input and insight is greatly appriciated.
Ill Check out the converter in the morning. I'm guessing its ok.
I would really rather be going the manual transmission route but I'm going to have to do it in stages I guess because I have to get up and running.
I may go pick up the wrangle rear transmission mount and see how it might fit into the rear crossmember as is.
It will me neat to see.
Thanks again to you, to all and the eagles den
You have to set the converter all the way into the 727 before bolting it up or you will crush the front pump.
Quote from: carnuck on February 19, 2015, 08:16:58 PM
You have to set the converter all the way into the 727 before bolting it up or you will crush the front pump.
I was just about to say the same. You need to install the converter into the transmission and then after you bolt the bellhousing up to the engine, you install the bolts to the converter. When you put the converter on the shaft, turn it while applying pressure so that it seats all the way into the pump. I learned the hard way on a Mustang a few years ago.
Thanks eagle freek. I'm guessing that's what happened to the transmission that's coming out. I was told that it just leaked like a sive. Any other heads up ideas prior to install. Anything that would be easier on the floor as oppors to installed
It was minus numbers again this morning. I don't mind so much but the tools suck the heat out of your hands.
I'm going to pick up the Pace of reassembly. Partially because I need to and partially because Ive decided to do as much as I can for the manual swap but proceed with the TF727 NP229 install. Autos spook me a bit because I don't know them as well. The previous owner rebuilt them so I hope that went well and they function as intended.
So is it true that your supposed to put a quart of transmission fluid in the torque converter prior to installing it?
Also, I understand type F is the correct fluid?
I'm curious too, if I have questions should I post them here or in the correct parts of forum, like transmission questions in the transmission sections and soforth?
Thanks
Dexron/Mercon III is the correct fluid. Type F will eventually take out the bands and clutches. It was made for early Fords with asbestos clutches and bands. It's fine in a GM Powerglide too, but that's about it. If it was a lockup or you were going to tow with it then I would go to the Mopar semi-synthetic fluid.
The major leak point in the 998 is usually a cracked torque converter neck.
Change the passing gear and shift linkage while it's on the floor. Put both trans in park before doing it and note the position of the shift lever and passing gear lever carefully so you will have minimum mods needed after install. Front yoke of a 229 tcase needs swapped as well if you replace the NP129. Test fit the dipstick tube. The 998 tube is bent a bit different and I tried to bend it around the tab that sticks out, but it cracked the tube. Sawzall took that ear tab off in a flash but the damage was done. I have a Lokar tube for replacement I bought either on Ebay or Amazon for $35 delivered. It's for a Mopar big block, but that doesn't matter since it's "universal".
Make sure the trans cooler isn't clogged or full of old clutch material from the old trans. and partially fill the converter before installing it. Lube the trans seal lip to keep it from burning up and make sure the spring is still inside the lip.
Thanks again carnuck. I appriciate yours and everyone's help. I just couldn't give up on the manual swap.
Well, I got up yesterday at 4:30am
Again and went to go outside to work on the eagle and it was -10 degrees F. I couldn't do it. Today was a balmy 7 so .... Out to work.
Not wanting to give up on the manual swap (and I had) I fit the NP242 just to get an idea of what It was going to look like when I went back to it.
Well it fit really well. So I revisited the crossmember. As I photographed before, there are two mounting holes over the crossmember.
I found some vibration isolation mounts rated at 230pounds apiece.
Ill post pictures of what I'm going to assemble when the parts come in.
In the meantime I pulled the cover off the 3.55 I was happy to see that it looked ok.
I prepared the 3.08 front diff for removal. Next week I'm hoping to have the time to begin process of reassembly.
The 8.25 rear is in. I was luck and found one that had the shock mounts that were already removed and the guy selling it was willing to swap over my shock mounts from the 2.35 that were in the car.
My phone is currently full so I cant take any pictures but ill fix that and take some.
The adjenda for this week;
Swap out 3.08 fronts
Lock down rear end bend up brake lines
Waiting on clutch kit
Install clutch
Install master clutch cylinder
I would like to put more on the list but ill leave it at that and shoot for getting more done.
Would like to have it moving under its own power by the end of the month.
We'll see.
Does anybody have a part number for the pilot bushing for a 258 and an ax15?
Thanks
The pilot bushing for an AX15 isn't a brass plug like a T5. It is a tiny set of roller bearings pressed into a larger aluminum ring that in turn gets pressed into place on the crank. When I last got one Autozone had the same price as Advanced but Autozone's was just the roller bearing. That's useless. Advanced was same price but it was in the larger aluminum ring. Make sure you get the whole assembly. I tried swapping roller bearings into an old ring and its pretty hard. I damaged the old one in the process.
You need to measure the AX-15 pilot shaft diameter (I recall .70 and .75 but could be wrong on the first number). Test fit the trans to the motor without anything else to make sure it doesn't have the longer input shaft. It should fit flat with no gap, even without the tin plate. If not then you need to grind a bit off the input shaft or use a drill to make the crank hole slightly deeper. IIRC it's not a problem with the plastic cover 258s but the tin cover 80/81s only.
Get me the diameter of the trans pilot and I can get you the bearing number, but I recall it should be the same as a '79 CJ7 with 304 and 4 or 5 speed.
Great! Ill check the shaft length. The trans is currently in place (with out a clutch) but it does have the auto trans tin plate in place. And fits without a problems but when I pull it I'll measure it.
I'm hoping to have the clutch and flywheel in this week.
The vibration mounts I ordered should also be in. Im currently planing on using 2 of them rated at 230 pounds each.
They seem small so I'm not sure if Im going to need to fit an additional 2. Ill post pictures of what I'm planning.
Hoping to get some good hours in this week.
It's currently in a moderate state if disassembly.
Thanks for the help.
Since it's already in with the plate, just see if you can turn the trans while it's in 4th. If you can, then it's fine.
So I haven't clears off my phone but ill get some pictures up. I finished painting my front 3.55 diff ready for install. I dropped the diff that was in. When I dropped I mean oops dropped it.
My lux clutch and flywheel came in today. So did my "transmission mounts"
I made templates to locate the holes in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. That looks to be a "fun" task.
I ordered a tach from vangremlin which is going to be a great addition. That should be in shortly.
So I'm in the up hill/reassembly process. Very excited! Hoping to be underpower by the end of the month.
We'll see. Cannot wait.
Yesterday morning I managed to get drop the dry fitted np242 and ax15 but then spent the day in the emergency room with my dad. Not a great day. We got to leave but he's still not 100%. Hope he feels better today. My fingers are crossed.
My phone is still full of pictures so no new pic.
I did measure my input shaft on my ax15. It's .750" dia and 1.290 from the end to the taper for the splines.
The whole in the crank of the 258 appears to be 1.000" diameter and .750" deep to a small shoulder.
Now, the pilot bearing I have is a sleeved roller bearing. It's 1.001" diameter but only .560 deep. The ID seem to be .740 but its hard to measure with my calipers. Ill take a picture as soon as I can. There seems to be an o-ring on one side.
The clutch plate alignment tool diameter is .740" I'm going to remeasure my input shaft but supposedly it's correct for the 1995 xj that I ordered the kit for.
Not sure if this is the right one. It came with the clutch kit.
Does this sound right? Except for its depth it seems like it might work.
If so would the o-ring side go in the crank hole first?
Test fit the pilot bearing on the trans shaft. Sounds like it's too tight.
Ok, I'm back at it. It was a tough week. So, I measure the input shaft dia. It is .750" is a 1995 ax15 with the external slave. I ordered a lux clutch kit and flywheel. The clutch kit came with a thru out bearing, alignment tool and a pilot bearing. The pilot bearing fits the .750 shaft but has an outside diameter of 1.000"
I pulled my 4.0 (the one that the ax15 came with) and sure enough the hole for the pilot bearing is one inch.
Now I couldn't easialy measure the ID of the hole for the pilot shaft in the 4.2 because my calipers couldn't reach in but I used sockets to get close. The hole dia is alittle bigger than 1.035" and smaller than 1.075"
I didn't measure the debth not sure it matters.
I was going to the parts store to do a guess and test but any guidance would be greatly appriciated.
In the meantime I'm working in a template to transfer the hole locations for the clutch master cylinder.
There is really so little room for the clutch master I'm not too worried about its location on the firewall (maybe I should be) but I want to be sure the relationship between the three holes is correct.
As much as I want the eagle to be done and working I also enjoy the time I spend alone on the garage floor making things work, taking apart and putting back together while listing to music.
Quick question, did I read some where that the 4.0 is "longer" than the 4.2?
If so would that put the transmission further back? How much?
If so it might help with my transmission crossmember modification.
As it stands I have two vibration isolation pads rated at 280 pounds each. They look alot smaller than the stock isolator so I'm thinking I need at least two more.
No I'm not going to be doing much 4x4'n but some
I'm kinda "seat of your pants" engineering the crossmember mod but really want the manual.
Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on March 07, 2015, 03:31:33 PM
Quick question, did I read some where that the 4.0 is "longer" than the 4.2?
I believe they are the same length. The 4.0 head fits on the 4.2 block.
Want to send off a hats off, thumbs up, and eggs to vangrlin for his ford tachometer! Great product! I received mine and cannot wait to install it and make it operate.
Thanks!!!!
Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on March 07, 2015, 08:35:24 PM
Want to send off a hats off, thumbs up, and eggs to vangrlin for his ford tachometer! Great product! I received mine and cannot wait to install it and make it operate.
Thanks!!!!
You're welcome, and thank you. Enjoy it and your Eagle!
The harmonic balancer of the Vee belt 4.2L is what makes the crank only 10 mm longer than the 4.0L so the accessories sit back more when they went to serpentine belt.
Ok, I need some help. I'm looking for the right pilot bearing/bushing(?) for my
4.2 to match up with my ax15
The 4.2 was manufactured on 10/16/87 and appears to have a 1.050"-1.053" diameter pilot hole it's hard for me to measure
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssfvvczkl.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssfvvczkl.jpg.html)
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The ax15 has a .750" diameter input shaft and is from a 1995 xj sport. It has the external slave.
I spent (wasted) time at the parts store today and didn't come up with anything.
Any ideas?
I appricatie any help,
Doing a quick Google search, it sounds like the PB77HD bushing will work.
Clutch Pilot Bushing
Bearing Bore (in)--0.751
Bearing OD (in)--1.056
Bearing Width (in)--0.88
Hi eaglefreek! That's the exact same part number I came up with and we talked about at the parts store. It was going to take them 10 days to get one. So I figure I would do some more digging.
The other thing is I remember reading that others have used a roller bearing pressed into an outer outer ring. The parts store had one it had the right OD but it had the 1/2 id. I forget the application.
So I'm not sure. I'm going to go out and measure the Depth tonight to see if the .88 works. If it does work, I may have to give it a shot.
I appriciate your input. Come back to see what happens
10 days?! There are quite a few listed on Ebay and also on Novak's site.
If it's Napa, check on a B77HD bearing. The PB77HD is the Chinese knockoff.
Greeting carnuck, have you heard of this bunshing for this application?
Dorman bushing number is 690-042
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5492-690-042.aspx?year=1979&make=Jeep&origin=keyword
wrong info listed on some sites for the needle bearing one.
On the stroker's list they mentioned CJ5 with 4 or V8 '80-'83
So great!! Thanks again!! One more piece of the puzzle. Next on my list of have to get.
I don't know what I would do with everyone's help here.
In the mean time today I cut the holes for the clutch master cylinder. It was a bit of a process.
1st I laid out the hole locations on a 1/8 piece of ply-wood and nailed it to another ,
2nd I drilled pilot holes
3rd I took off the top piece and opened up the holes to check to see if they lined up with the clutch master cylinder.
When they did I traced the outline of the flange of the cylinder into it
4th I put it back on the nails of the first board. Ignore the failed attempt I was only working on the one.
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Then I cut out the shape of the flange and the holes out if both boards
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This gave me the shape of the flange with just pilot holes.
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I double sided sticky tapes it in place and drilled the pilot holes.
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Then, with the holes located, I was able to open then up from the inside
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I still need to Dremel the center one about .010 more to fit well but it's done!
Wow. I just went by the cutout in the insulation and used the thumb (close one eye, hold thumb up at arms length, stick tounge oht to the left) and mine works ok. Power to you for precision though. Extra effort always shows in the finished product.
I cut mine out blindfolded as well. Works awesome. No precision needed.
good for you on attention to detail
Mmm, I guess I have a tendancy to worry too much about the wrong stuff stuff sometimes. I guess I didn't want to have to open up the holes too much after I drilled them. I'm hoping it slips right in.
After it goes in it will be to the spirit clutch pedal modification. I don't have a welder so I'm thinking of just drilling a hole for a bolt.
Money is tight at the moment so I need to wait on the Novak flexible line and adaptor for the clutch slave but I'll proceed with the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Having the reservoir but not the bracket so I will be bending up something for that.
Along with that I'll be working on the process of reassembly. Today I'll be tracking down the pilot bushing for the transmission installation and installing the intake and exhaust manifolds. Now, that's what I hope to do, between the kids work and everything else it will be intresting to see what happens and go from there.
So it's been a couple of days. I ordered what I hope to be the right pilot bushing. It should be here today so I can start on the flywheel, clutch, transmission installation.
In the mean time Ive been working on installing the intake and exhaust manifolds. Since I had it out and had the time I painted the them with por-15 high temp paint.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsnjizzpum.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsnjizzpum.jpg.html)
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I went to install them yesterday and WOW talk about Chinese parts!
The exhaust manifold casting sucked so bad I had to take like .050' off the areas where the washers went because there was no way It was going to bolt up! Not long with the dremel but still.
I feel kinda acquard installing a part into my AMERICAN motors car with a big
"China" cast into it. But it's what I got.
So I'll be back at it today. Hopefully I'll get the manifolds mounted and start work on the power steering and carburetor.
Such fun really! Love working on her. I was looking at her and thinking wow this is going to be the coolest car on the road.
That intake looks great.
Pretty. Sandblast it first?
Thanks, guys. Unfortunately I was unable to sand blast first. Just a good clean and paint. Hope the por-15 works as well as it always has. Having had to install and remove the intake and exhaust any number of times I hope to not have to so that job again anytime soon. Other than a re torque of corse
I was going to ask what others have done but I installed them without any product. I didn't put anything in the gaskets and nothing on the bolts. I used no RTV, no never seize. Just dry.
Today I I have the time ill work on power steering, carburetor.
I'm in the down Jill process of reassembly. The pilot bearing should be in and I'll do the flywheel, clutch,
Ax15.
Looking a little down the road, I did a 8.25 rear axle swap.
What have others don't done for universal attachment to the new rear?
Old straps and new bolts?
How about e-brake cables? Old jeep cables? Or AMC cables?
Back to the grind. Thanks again! Such a great forum .
Here's the before
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I'll post the after shortly
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She's been sitting for too long, had a 50 degree day so it was nice to let her see the light of day!
Soon
Post installation
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The carb is just dry fitted
I think I found a new home for the clutch master cylinder resivor, on the drivers side shock tower. I still need to check to see of I have to route around the power brakes but I think it will be ok.
I ordered a clutch slave and flexible line from Novak.
Hoping to pick up the pace of reassembly because the snow is comming.... Wait....oops..
Anyway, looking forward to driving her.
Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on March 13, 2015, 06:35:57 AM
Looking a little down the road, I did a 8.25 rear axle swap.
What have others don't done for universal attachment to the new rear?
Old straps and new bolts?
How about e-brake cables? Old jeep cables? Or AMC cables?
What are you calling straps? You mean the U bolts? You'll need different ones since the 8.25 has larger diameter axle tubes. I reused the Eagle parking brake cables. Oh, straps. You mean the ones that hold on the u joints? I just reused the ones that came with the rear.
Sorry, ya, the straps for the universals on the drive shaft. I guess that's something I'm going to have to get because my 8.25 don't come with any. I was hoping maybe to use the eagle ones with bolts.
I'm guessing I need to rebuild the brakes on the 8.25. Their not in the best shape and if I have to tear into them for e-brake cables than....I may as well rebuild them. The parts from rock auto arnt too expensive.
My pilot bushing has arrived and hope to get the transmission in this week. Then I get to try my hand at the rear crossmember modifications. Once past that I hope to be edging closer to a start up! I have my fingers crossed. It seems like the weeks are going by too fast.
I haven't done it yet, but the Ebrake cables from the Eagle diff should fit. XJs that swapped to 8.25 just swap in the D35 cables.
So I'm looking at redoing the brakes on my 8.25. When I do I'll add the e-brake cables. It's a good thing because the eagle ones are brand new.
Yesterday I routed and mounted the master clutch master cylinder reservoir.
Been a while since I bent up some steel line. It came out ok. Could have done better but it looks sufficient.
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Waiting on Novak order for transmission Install.I have a clutch slave, flexible flaired line and an additional pilot bushing. I'll be able to work on modifying the spirit clutch pedal.
My dashboard looks like it thru up wires. Not looking forward to the wringing out the wiring.
The jeep starter is high on the wiring list. Looking at it seems like it has direct power/ground and a signal wire for selonid.
Hope to get something done today
I just jumpered the signal and power terminal and used the eagle solenoid on the fender.
http://forums.amcevolution.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1561 page 5 or 6 gives both ways to do the starter
It might be an optical illusion, but you want to make sure your reservoir is higher than that bend in the line that goes into the master. Otherwise air might get trapped there.
I mounted mine in a similar spot, absolutely could not find a better way. Mine I used rubber instead of hard line, so I filled and bled it with my wife holding it up, then mounted it. Hope to find a better option someday but it works.
You know what eaglefreak, your right. I couldn't put my finger in what I didn't like about the job but you did. It's below the level of the top of the reservoir but it's an uphill travel to the bottom of the reservoir. Looks like I may have to try again. Maybe ill try to get it into it's right location next to the brake booster This time.
Thanks everyone for the tips on the starter! That was a big help. That's going to be an easier than expected jop, gotta love those. It's also going to have to be high on the list when everything goes back in.
Haven't done much today other than put her up in ramps and jack stands so maybe I can get the transmission jack under her.
I'll try to get a picture tomorrow of where my stock reservoir is.
In some, maybe all, of 1981 both four cylinder and six cylinder Eagles got the same resevoir. Four cylinder Spirits also got it and those have the same system as Eagles. Six cylinder Spirits were mechanical clutches.
The stock location was a bracket mounted on the other side of the brake booster along the fire wall. The hole for the bolt is present in all Eagles. The bracket wrapped around the resevoir with a screw in the same way the evap cannister bracket is shaped.
In maybe some of 1981 or 1982, I'm not sure when, they stopped putting the nice resevoirs in six cylinder Eagles but kept putting them in four cylinders. In 1983 all the six cylinder Eagles had the stupid horrid plastic tube style resevoir. The plastic tube style ended in a vent exactly the same as the vent found on top of the differential vent tubes. They have a very small volume and are prone to cracking, which has stranded me several times in several different Eagles over the years. Putting the older style resevoir in is a huge upgrade for those Eagle owners stuck with the plastic tube.
Incidentally the part numbers from four to six cylinder slave and master clutch cylinders are different according to Rockauto but in practice they are all interchangeable. The six cylinder slave has a shorter rod but that can be swapped for the longer rod in a four cylinder. There is small differences in bore size but it doesn't matter much. I will say that a six cylinder slave and master set in my four cylinder Kammback has a longer throw and the pedal has to travel slightly further toward the floor to find the bite point but it isn't enough of a difference to notice. Since availability comes and goes in cycles this is important to know. One of them is always available but usually you need to try several similar vehicles to find the one in stock.
Thanks everyone!
Ill bend up another line. Ill be able to do a better job this time. Ill see if I can squeeze it in where it's supposed to be.
I looked at the clutch pedal last night and think I have an idea of using an aluminum plate and a shoulder screw. Bolt the plate to the pedal and shoulder screw to plate. It should be quite strong as well. Also, I don't have a welder. Figure if I do it this way I can change it if it doesn't work. One step at a time.
Here's a couple pictures from my '81
Looks nice, my 88 has wires there, a LOT of wires.
Thank you Draekon, and to all Much appriciated. I'm going to take a closer look at trying to get the resivoir n the proper place. It would be a much shorter run and all down hill from that location. I wish I had the factory mounting bracket but not a hard make one to work.
I didn't get anything done today other than brakes on my girlfriends car. I didn't want to complain but I spent more time on her car at one time than Ive been able to work in my eagle in weeks! At least she has fresh brakes.
Maybe get something done tomarrow
Didn't get to bending up a new line for the clutch master but did get the pilot bushing anf flywheel installed.
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Tomarrow, hopefully clutch and transmission
Managed to torque down the flywheel and install the clutch and clutch plate today.
Quick question. The clutch disk didn't have a label on it that said "flywheel" side. I mentally noted how it came apart from the XJ it came from but my head hasn't been screwed on real strait. So I don't quite trust my memerory.
Anyone recognize the orientation of the clutch disk?
Tomarrow, hopefully transmission.
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(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa60imofg.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa60imofg.jpg.html)
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That looks correct to me. The other way around, the springs would touch the flywheel bolts.
You did lube the pilot bushing, right? Clutch is right way around. Usually they stamp them.
I applied a little motor oil on the pilot bushing prior to installation. If that's what you mean.
I also gently lubed the input shaft splines, and a touch of grease on the pivot ball. My throw out bearing had a plastic (nylon) inner liner so I didn't grease the input shaft. Hope that's right. If not I could pull it. The Transmission is IN though YA! Working by yourself is tough but it went smooth.
I didn't have the height to get the transmission on the transmission jack so I used my engine joist to raise the tranny through the shifter hole to get it on the jack. It worked slick.
If all is good I'm on to the np242 and rear crossmember modifications.
Did I forget to lube anything?
A bit of grease would be better than motor oil, but at least is has some lube. On the old sinter bronze pilot bushings we had a small pot of 50W oil that we threw on the stove and dropped the bushing in on an old long stem valve from an old diesel so we could fish it out easily. Took it up to a low boil then pulled it out, dried off the outside and popped it in the crank.
Thanks once again carnuck. You have been great help though this.
I'm currently working on the rear crossmember modification, I would be happy to hear your opinion.
Ill post picture shortly.
Curious, I didn't put much oil on the pilot bushing. A light smear of motor oil on the od of the end of the input shaft.
I thought the sintered bushings has a lubricant incorporated in them.
Think I should pull it back out and lubricate? Easier now than later.
For what it's worth I'll likly have the motor out next year to put in a 4.0
It should last a year okay. The sintered bushing may have been pre-lubed (I hear that's the modern way) Just don't sit for long periods riding the clutch.
Well I'm thinking if there's a question I would be best pulling it now. Every thing is in place to just slide it back
And add alittle grease. How much were you suggesting?
Grease would be about enough to cover your fingernail. Oil evaporates and goes dry with heat applied. It also spins into the clutch disc if you put more than a couple drops in. Maybe find out if the bushing you got is prelubed and save yourself the work?
I'm thinking the bushing I put in was the pre lubed sintered bronze but because all it means is unbolting the transmission and sliding it out I think I'm going to do that and add a touch of grease.
It's not that much more work and it's not going to hurt anything. Better safe than sorry. So much easier to do it now.
I've been working on the rear crossmember modifications. Il post pictures shortly. I'm hoping its going to work out ok. I got some vibration isolation bushings from a company called TECH PRODUCTS in OH. I ordered 2 but need to get 2 more. It's tight but we'll see. I've really not had to change much on the crossmember itself so it will be interesting.
I'm also working on trying to figure out how to properly adjust the push rod for the Novak slave cylinder, the directions arnt as clear as I would have wanted. It seems like they made them for a very broad range of applications.
Ill be interested to hear what people think. I'm absolutly open to all comments, or criticism.
More comming
Well I'm back, Ive needed to remind myself of my cars name, Joy. Hit yet another ruff patch. Work, sick Dad, crazy ex-wife, kids....I name the car joy because things can be hard but one cannot forget to find joy where you can.
Anyway Ive worked on her so ill try to catch up with some if it. Most importantly the ax-15 is installed as well as the associated rear crossmember modifications. I'm curious to hear any inputs or observations.
What I did was to mount a 3/16th plate using three bolts utilizing the existing mounting for the transmission mounts.
In to that I mounted 4 vibration isolation mounts from a company called Tech products. They are valued at 280 pounds apiece. I hade to use Allen head cap screw as to be able to access them to tighten them.
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Installed view from back
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From under
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The mounts are 1/2" thick. Looks like I my have to space the crossmember down about 1/2 as to make room for the speedo cable. It's close though. I could actually mount the crossmember flush, it's close.
I didn't have to make any modifications to the color board.
The ax-15 has an NP 242 behind it
The front drive shaft went in with out a problem. The rear went in with about 1 1/2 inch play in the slip yoke.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsalnx4xwn.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsalnx4xwn.jpg.html)
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfgkoszgu.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfgkoszgu.jpg.html)
It doesn't seem like a problem to leave as is. There is no risk of the drive shaft slipping out. Not even close.
Again, I would be happy to hear what anyone thinks.
Ill write more with the clutch pedal mods. Shortly
I finally did it!!!! After quite a bit of difficulty I got the hydraulic clutch system in and working!! Wow what a pain.
I wouls like to so however Eric at Novak is quite a gentleman. He stands by his product 110%. I had some trouble with the install and he was extraordinarily helpful.
Anyway clutch in and working (check) transmission in (check) np242 (check) driveshafts (check) 8.25 rear (check)
Exhaust (check)
Next; install master cylinder, carborator, bleed brakes,
Wiring has me a little worries but.... One step at a time
Great progress.
Is that a crack?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/svoman2300/image_zpsgswtomzc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/svoman2300/media/image_zpsgswtomzc.jpg.html)
Yup it's a crack, the bolt is also broken off in that hole as well. I actually don't have bolts in the rear mounting locations because I was going to have to make some holes in the crossmember that I thought would weaken it and I currently don't have a welder to strengthen it . So, the transmission is only bolted in the two forward locations but it's sitting on 4 isolation mounts. I figured it would have to do and the eagle auto transmission was only attached with two bolts. I don't plan on any serious off roading (maybe dirt roads and trails),
It's primarily a road machine.
In hindsight I would have stuck with the 727 and np229 but think I might like to build another one.
I also didn't go with the 4.0 head or full 4.0 swap (I have one to put in) because I thought I was already taking on too much. In hindsight it wouldn't have been that bad.
Well she ran!!!!!!!! Sounded smooth but didn't relax to an idle. I'm not worried about it because I haven't gotten there yet. I would like to get her up to temp a couple of times and retorque the intake and exhaust manifolds and all the other components that came off and went back on.
So I'm going to get a posting together on my auto to manual swap ( if it's successful ) for anyone else Interested in doing the same. In the mean time here is my clutch pedel....
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsaqcendp2.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsaqcendp2.jpg.html)
It's a spirit pedal, I used a 1/2 aluminum plate mounted in it,
With a shoulder screw through the plate and screwed into the pedal.
It should be well supported.
Funny I didn't do the 4.0 or 4.0 head because I thought I was taking in enough mods as it was with the ax-15 but turns out it would have been easier with the exhaust. I'm a little concerned about the exhaust pipe contacting the bell housing.....
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsudzjpogp.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsudzjpogp.jpg.html)
Does any one have any thoughts about how bad this might be?
The rest of the system went in rather smoothly.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrc2uchrg.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrc2uchrg.jpg.html)
Well, I got the old girl running!!! What a joy!
Except for it sounding like....well like the starter gear staying out too long
She purrrrrred like a kitten.
I tested the starter so I don't know what's up. Not sure if it has something to do with it having two solenoids
Or what.
Been working on the 4x4 shifter and the brakes and I can take her off the ramps and jack stands.
It's getting closer to a test run.
I've taken so many things apart and put them back together it's going to be interesting.
I'll get to test the used;
Front 3.55 diff
Rear 8.25 diff
Ax-15
Np242
Get to test the
Rear crossmember modifications
Clutch pedal install and mods
I hope after all the time and work I don't have problems
Being that it was so disassembled and re assembled I'm going to have to retorque everything!
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuxs0yakb.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuxs0yakb.jpg.html)
Then into wiring, currently the dash lights don't work, the dash looks like it puked wires
Non of the pod gauges are hooked up.
The tac isn't installed.
If I could get a couple of days I could get alot done. Mmmm... Where to get a couple of days without something to do...? Ill have to continue to pick away at it.
I haven't even begun to thinking about door handles, paint and other cosmetic work.
Slow and steady wins the race I guess
If you put both wires together on the starter it will hang like that.
Thanks Carnuck, or should I say thanks again. Your self and many others have helped and inspired me greatly though out this project. I know I've mentioned it before before I'm greatful to this forum, to all who have been so helpful and to all who share there work here, it's great to be apart of if it.
I did just connect the two wires at the starter. Ill rethink it and look back to the posts to see if I can straighten it out.
On a positive note, Managed to make my transfercase selector work. I didn't think I was going to get the time but it wasnt that bad. Ill try to take some pictures today.
She's ready to come off the ramps and jack stands for a test drive after I bleed the brakes. Can't belive it. So close to a test drive.
Ill post with results
Look who's out of her nest? Joy. She's been inside since November .
She come out under her own power.
I bled the brakes.
bunch of tweaking but then DMV camping hiking boating paragliding and paramotoring!'n summers her I come
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpspxukaum7.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpspxukaum7.jpg.html)
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse1qmhkwj.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse1qmhkwj.jpg.html)
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Quote from: Seagulls n Eagle on May 27, 2015, 05:08:44 AM
Thanks Carnuck, or should I say thanks again. Your self and many others have helped and inspired me greatly though out this project. I know I've mentioned it before before I'm greatful to this forum, to all who have been so helpful and to all who share there work here, it's great to be apart of if it.
I did just connect the two wires at the starter. Ill rethink it and look back to the posts to see if I can straighten it out.
On a positive note, Managed to make my transfercase selector work. I didn't think I was going to get the time but it wasnt that bad. Ill try to take some pictures today.
She's ready to come off the ramps and jack stands for a test drive after I bleed the brakes. Can't belive it. So close to a test drive.
Ill post with results
The trick to kill the hangup of the starter is to run the thick cable that is going to the main terminal of the starter to the solenoid to the battery side and add a 14 gauge or so wire from where the big cable used to go down to the small wire on the XJ starter. When we did SOTE, I had it hooked up the same as yours and recently read the above trick on a CJ site.
I'm on it! Thank you I'm going to tackle that tomorrow morning!!
I hope that one day our paths cross so I could buy ya a beer of a dinner or both.
Off subject but this is powered paragliding. One of, if not the coolest ways to explore and see the world.
It's an aircraft that fits in your car and you can fly from a soccer field.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/rs271new/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjwb3ywtk.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/rs271new/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjwb3ywtk.jpg.html)
Unbelievably fun, and really not that difficult to do.
One of my hobbies
Good to see the Eagle running. I'm sure it's an amazing feeling being in the air, but I like my feet on the ground.
Getting my eagle running is a great feeling. Seeing the world from a paraglider is too.
I said powered paragliding is relitively easy, that's partially correct.
It is relit only easy, it's also real easy to get into trouble and takes long time to get enough experiance to keep you from hurting yourself. It is aviation after all.
I picked up the misc parts for the first phase fine tuning.
The connectors to change the configuration on my
Starter. 1 last clamp for the exhaust, some vacume line for the distributer.
Illfinish fill the ax-15, check the fluid in the 8.25 rear. Lug nuts.
After the above I'm ready for a longer test drive, and DMV
Funny, I haven't really driven an eagle, now it's time.
So she's getting closer. I took her to the end of the driveway and back. I filled the ax-15 with 10w-30 (not sure if that is correct, it seams like there were alot of different answers to the question of that the proper fluid was.
Fixed the starter hang up (thanks to carnuck) still working on 4x4 selector for the NP242. Lug nuts on.
Exhaust clamped down.
I'm on to electrical, interior and final assembly
During the quick drive I took everything went smooth. it shifted well stopped and steered ok.
It seamed to bog down real quick if I tried to give it too much gas. I was thinking later that it was likely
That the choke was still closed. I'm definitely going to manual choke so I know if it's on/off or somewhere in between. It's feels strange, Ive had her for this long and have only driven an Eagle this once.
I'm Hopeing get some more done today.
Hoping to get out for some more work today and the next couple of days. I rewired the starter and it works perfectly!! Thanks carnuck.
I'm pleased that so far the ax-15 seems to shift ok. Clutch disengauges/engauges as it should.
No unusual noises as of yet. She still seemed to bog down/hesitate some but haven't really got any time one her. It must be adjustments as well because just about everything is new.
We'll see what happens. On to wiring
I'm thinking I might be able to go to DMV and see what it's going to take to get her to be a legal eagle.
On the bog, try 5 degrees more timing advance.
I'm back, it's been a while since I posted. Seems I got more done on my eagle in the cold of winter than now but...
My daily driver tdi VW quit and now it's time.
I'm just finishing up with the tach install, going to do a quick search for the parts for interimitant wiper part
(Going to try the 1981 ford f100 wiper parts) if I cannot get that going I'm moving in to re assembly registration and driving.
Funny, I bought and instrument cluster for a tach, turned out the tach was toast. I figured I tossed that money out the window only later to discover it wasnt the tach I was buying but rather the clear plastic that I was going to need. It doesn't have the hole in it for the clock.
Any way. I'm just about to brake my lift gate hinge. (Passenger side)
Does anyone have one? It seems like it would be a good part to be reproduced, maybe later printed.
I'll post as she comes along
Thanks carnuck, I'm going to try your 5 degrees suggestion.
I'm back, and it's almost legal! I have a temporary registration. Now I have to get a ViN varification and that's it!
I'm not sure the last time this eagle (joy) was driven but I'm sure glad to have her.
So far the problems are timing and carb tuning and not sure where I have an oil leak but I sure for one.
I need to re check everything but a trip to go get gas is a big step.
I need to nail down the timing. It was amazing at what a huge range of timing she was willing to run at.
Ill post progress as it happens
Thanks to all that have helped me!!! I might have done it in my own but it is great having such a great group of people for surpport. THANKS!!!! To all.
Well, the DMV kinda messed me up. They closed their doors for a week. Would have been good if they could have let me know. The good news is I jumped thru all their hoops and I just have to go back one more time to get a percent plate.
So "joy" is only parked for a bit. So far the 5speed arrangement is working well.
The gronk carb had some issues. There was fuel leaking from gasket at the pump discharge nozzle screw.
I hope this was the problem with it running crappy because I was unable to get it to smooth out and run well.
I'll be back at trying to figure things out.
What a blast to drive!!!