i need some info on removing the ball joints on Eagle Eyes as i have never done this before, and before anyone asks yes they are the originals from 1980 as they are riveted in but that ain't a problem as i plan on grinding the heads off. what i need to know is do i need to get a spring compresser. and what other tools will i need besides the grinder, screwdriver, hammer, and ball joint puller.
I did all of them on my Concord and it wasn't so bad. You do not have to remove the springs, however, the TSM says to put a block of wood between the "frame" and the lower control arm, so that the control arm rests on the wood.
UPDATE: THE BLOCK OF WOOD GOES BETWEEN THE FRAME RAIL AND THE UPPER CONTROL ARM.
If you look in the how to's sections I believe someone wrote one up on this. But just in case, you will need a few sockets and wrenches. I find it is easier to remove the brake caliper and half shaft and just set the steering knuckle aside when replacing the ball joints, I also recommend doing uppers and lowers at the same time to prevent in unnecessary tear down in the future, and don't forget to put in your cotter pins after tightening down those castle nuts good and tight. It is also beneficial to get the greaseable ball joints as apposed to the sealed units, and they are usually only a dollar or two more.
does any one know about how long it takes to remove the ball joints as i only get one day a week off and don't have much time to do much.
Ive been thinking about those too for Ginger. I know the stock ones are riveted on, so that seems like its going to be kinda a pain in the butt. I think once the old ones are chisseled off its a pretty managable project.....hopefully!
R U doing them on Eagle eyes or Survivor?
Here is what you do,
First, unless I'm crazy (it's been a while since i've been under an eagle) the upper ball joint is held on by rivets(if it's original) or bolts( if it's been replaced) the uppers take almost no time at all to change, i think i did a set of uppers in less than 2 hours. All you need to do is pickle fork the ball joint out(if you don't know hat a "pickle fork" is, it is a two prong "fork" that you jam on both sides of pin of the ball joint and hammer it to separate the balljoint from the knuckle) remove the rivets with a cold chisel or a bolt in the standard fashion. Replace and reinstall.
The lowers are a bit more tricky as I think they are pressed in. Someone correct me on this though before i write up to remove pressed in ball joints.
the lower ball joint is rivited in and and the eagle i'll be working on is Eagle Eyes.
Id like to meet up with you when you decide to do it do it...that way I would have a good Idea of what kind of project it is.
Well then the lower ball joint is the same deal. Real quite easy to do. For someone who had never done them before, assuming you have a pickle fork, it should take no more than 5-6 hours if your meticulous to do all four.
And also, once you have removed the knuckle from the ball joints(not an easy task, the easiest way I've found to separate them is to wrap a chain tightly around the lower control arm, feed a long pipe trough the chain and use it as leverage to pull the lower control arm down.) make sure not to pop off the tie rod end with the pickle fork, once the fork is used on a joint like that it ruins it.
It is also important to have the car about 2 feet off the ground when you do this, to be able to get that Lon bar in there with sufficient movement.
Let me know if this makes sense.
shane would love to meet up again when i do the ball joints and yes mechanic i do have a pickle fork.
I used a large cold chisel and a sharp hit from the 2.5lb persuader to pop off the rivet heads. It's a lot easier than trying to get in with a grinder. the ball joints just drop off. Make sure you are not using a woodworking chisel. Place the edge of the chisel right on the edge of the rivet and give it a few good solid whacks. Once the heads have popped off, you should be able to just tap the exposed top of the ball joint to pop it down and out. The new ones bolt in. You might have to drill out the rivet holes a bit depending on the size of bolt that comes with them in the kit. I didn't have to, but be prepared. The best thing to do is to pull the the wheel, half shaft, caliper and steering knuckle off. That is just wrenching. You might want to consider replacing your tie rods while you are there. They only take a couple of minutes to replace. You will need to have a wheel alignment done if you replace the tie rods. You can line the new ones up next to the old ones and adjust them to the approximate length, so driving for a short time won't damage anything. Including the tie rod replacement I don't think you would need any longer than a day to get it all done and back on it's wheels (assuming no other major problems crop up along the way...just be prepared).
Cheers
well the chisel idea is a good one but for some unknown resone they put the rivits in upsidedown so getting to the heads will be very interesting. as for the tie-rods need money first before i can get to them. and i was only able to afford ball-joints so only the right will have new ones till i can get some more money (got love bills).
Dude....I LOVE bills....especially that 900 dollar insurance billI just got hit with, I can just feel Progressives love :P
wow $900 why in the world is it that high? i only pay $81.79 for both my eagles.
I did my upper ball joints and Regalwizard's ball joints, and the longest part of the task is chiseling out the old rivets (if they are original).
the rest is pretty easy. Well once you pry down on the lower control arm, and get the thing into position.
Dude...I went to autozone today...I was actually thinking about getting ball joints for ginger....The cheapest set was over 200.00!!!! Looks like those will have to go on my mile long wish list for now....Maybe ill just focus on the oil pump or tie rod bushings...or somthing a little less spendy....I could have had my tranny rebuilt for the cost of that stupid insureance bill!!....It cuz my wife got like 6 hefty tickets she didnt tell me about over the past year.....That was the price for six months, but its still 300.00 higher than it was last december.
maybe it's a good thing i'm single. :rotfl: i found out today that my left front wheel bearings are on their way out so i had a fun time today trying to find the right ones. oh and i'm pretty sure that o'reilly's hates me now. >:D >:D :rotfl:
Quote from: shanebo on June 25, 2011, 11:49:28 PM
Dude...I went to autozone today...I was actually thinking about getting ball joints for ginger....The cheapest set was over 200.00!!!!
Looks like you can get them from Rock Auto for much less, probably $60-100
At one time, and maybe still, the lower joints were considered not replaceable. You were supposed to buy a whole new lower arm with the joint already riveted in. Perhaps there wasn't supposed to be enough room for bolt heads that near the CV boot.
Rivet heads underneath? How can you tell? The part that sticks out on the top of the upper arm is what you'll be knocking off.
Dont sweat it Maddog...Auto Zone will always take ya back...LOL :rotfl:
they never got rid of me infact i have one of their rewards cards. as for the rivits the flat part is supposed to be on top right. and the lower ball-joints are replaceable i just have to remove the strut rod to do so.
Which ever part of the rivet is on top is the one I knock off. So to me, it doesn't matter which end it is. ;)