i'm posting this here because the speedometer cable is connect to the transmission box (so i thought it appropriate though it may not be). the tsm is a bit sketchy on this from what we found though several posts in this forum encouraged us not to just 'try our luck', but to be clear on what we are doing.
first: the removal
we are dealing with kiyreagle (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23548.0)
we got the cruise control cable and unit off and are now contemplating the best approach for dealing with getting the rest off the transmission. here's what it looks like:
(http://towardsfreedom.com/zz/cable2tran.jpg)
the cable is attached by a clip in a groove on the inside from what i understand. we remove the bolt but keep track of the position of the dots along side the numbers. when we pull it all out lots of fluid is supposed to spill out so we have to plug it up quick!
second: the preparation
we need to salvage the clip or get a new one to use on the new cable. we are not using the cruise version and we have checked that the 81" one is sufficiently long.
put the cable and the retainer (i guess that's what it is called) together. there is likely some issue with proper alignment here as well though i don't know what that may be yet.
third: the installation
unplug the transmission receiving end and watch stuff spill out again as we rush to put the retainer back in with proper alignment and bolt it.
get the other end connected into the speedometer and put on the rubber seal (which we salvaged from the old cable by cutting the cable) at the firewall.
refill the lost fluid with either gear oil (stinks) or autotrans (reddish) depending on what was there to begin with.
have i missed anything?
any specific tips?
???
I've only taken the whole unit out. Works for me
it's transmission fluid that's in there.
When I replaced my speedo cable, I just pulled the actual cable out of the sheathing. Then lubed the new cable, and shoved it back down, cut to length and crimped the speedo adapter to the cable. I never had to remove the trans plug thing.
Quote from: ammachine390 on May 10, 2011, 09:07:29 PM
When I replaced my speedo cable, I just pulled the actual cable out of the sheathing. Then lubed the new cable, and shoved it back down, cut to length and crimped the speedo adapter to the cable. I never had to remove the trans plug thing.
that is an ingenious idea!
unfortunately, it won't work for us since the sheathing is in 2 pieces:
speedo --- cruise
cruise --- trans
neither close to the required 81" :'(
Is it possible to disconnect the cables from the cruise module, and the pull the cable out from there?
Quote from: ammachine390 on May 10, 2011, 10:06:22 PM
Is it possible to disconnect the cables from the cruise module, and the pull the cable out from there?
yes but that cable is about 24" long while the other isn't quite 81". so there are 2 not one cables.
however, together they are over 81", so may be you are thinking of running the wire cable through the cruise unit and using the existing sheathing joined together? that would be an interesting possibility if it could be done cleanly. we'll look into it tomorrow.
If you pull it out, you'll get maybe a half cup to a cup of fluid, not that much and you won't be able to stop it. It's a good reason to check the levels in the TC and top it up anyway.
I'd love to hear someone explain how they got their hand up behind the dash and were able to disconnect the speedo cable from the cluster. I can see it but don't have tiny little monkey hands with king-kong grip to get in there and unscrew it.
Quote from: craigp29690 on May 12, 2011, 01:33:23 PM
I'd love to hear someone explain how they got their hand up behind the dash and were able to disconnect the speedo cable from the cluster. I can see it but don't have tiny little monkey hands with king-kong grip to get in there and unscrew it.
my hands are just barely small enough. my son wasn't able to do it this time (though he could a year ago).
what i found was that if you push hard enough, you can find a position where your thumb and forefinger can actually work on the capscrew.
i was thinking though that it may be possible to loosen the cable sufficiently from the things holding it down as it passes through the engine compartment so that the cluster can actually be pulled out sufficiently so you can work on unscrewing it from the top. (you may have to loosen and push back the rubber 'washer' which blocks up the hole to the firewall so you can get the cable to move further into the car).
my intent certainly is to do it this way for the installation. we put attach the speedometer from the top, push the cluster back in and then attach it to the trans. then we secure the cable.
Quote from: craigp29690 on May 12, 2011, 01:33:23 PM
I'd love to hear someone explain how they got their hand up behind the dash and were able to disconnect the speedo cable from the cluster. I can see it but don't have tiny little monkey hands with king-kong grip to get in there and unscrew it.
I removed the parcel shelf, then I unscrewed the 2 nuts holding the hood release cable to the dash and put my arm up where the hood release goes. I do not have tiny hands, but not huge either, and I had plenty of room. You can feel where the cable is. Once the cable is disconnected from the speedo, you can remove the instrument cluster.
Quote from: craigp29690 on May 12, 2011, 01:33:23 PM
I'd love to hear someone explain how they got their hand up behind the dash and were able to disconnect the speedo cable from the cluster. I can see it but don't have tiny little monkey hands with king-kong grip to get in there and unscrew it.
I do it the easy way. Disconnect all the clips under the car and pull out the cluster. You may need to remove the end from the TC for slack. It'll feed right out, then you can work on it easily. Be careful re-inserting the cluster and don't kink the line.
It saves your knuckles and your sanity. There is absolutely no room where the cable attaches. I've been able to disconnect the line by removing the radio and putting a whole arm in the dash with the cluster loosened, but I'll never do that again. It takes too many band aids and really isn't a whole lot faster.
Quote from: BenM on May 12, 2011, 05:00:33 PM
You may need to remove the end from the TC for slack.
ben we're stuck on this part.
we've removed the retaining clip and have drained the oil from the tc, but the orange plastic donut seems to be stuck on tight - i can't pry it loose with a screwdriver and we don't want to pull the cable hard to get it out because it may snap.
what is to be done?
surely it doesn't screw off, does it?
when i removed the one on survivor the cable popped out of the red part. what i did was grab a flat head screw driver and a hammer and put the screw driver in one of the grooves and lightly tapped it with the hammer till it popped loose and i was able to pull it out without damaging it.
Just today I unhooked and rehooked the cable at the speedo in my 81 Concord. I don't have small hands but made it OK. Didn't have to undo the hood release either. : )
Quote from: maddog on May 12, 2011, 10:56:39 PM
when i removed the one on survivor the cable popped out of the red part. what i did was grab a flat head screw driver and a hammer and put the screw driver in one of the grooves and lightly tapped it with the hammer till it popped loose and i was able to pull it out without damaging it.
Try that, and if it fails you may want to heat the case up with a propane torch. Be sure to shield the plastic if you do. I've got one in a spare case I swear someone glued it, but normally, even if it was sealed with RTV, they come out like maddog said. They're perfectly round so they spin.
Quote from: maddog on May 12, 2011, 10:56:39 PM
when i removed the one on survivor the cable popped out of the red part. what i did was grab a flat head screw driver and a hammer and put the screw driver in one of the grooves and lightly tapped it with the hammer till it popped loose and i was able to pull it out without damaging it.
that's what we've been trying and it spins around, but nothing comes off.
we've using a blunted chisel because we're worried about damaging the red cap's grooves.
it spins easier now, but i don't really see how it's going to come off. so we put some bitron lub around there and got a couple of small screwdrivers to help pry it loose, it came off! what i don't understand is where all the oil spilled from because we drained it for 2 days!
here's what the thing looks like:
(http://www.towardsfreedom.com/zz/tcconn1.jpg)
(http://www.towardsfreedom.com/zz/tcconn2.jpg)
there are 2 clips and some caulking as well (which surprised me a bit though i imagine it creates a better seat and seal ... possibly responsible for making things difficult to get off too).
the fluid was definitely motor oil and not atf and quite clean too.
the question is what to refill with inlight of this conversation:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=35634.0
i just refilled survivors with transmission fluid.
One clip is supposed to hold the cable in the big red thing and the other holds the gear on the BRT. You shouldn't be able to pull the cable from the BRT without taking that clip off. : )
Quote from: AMCKen on May 15, 2011, 01:56:07 AM
One clip is supposed to hold the cable in the big red piece and the other holds the gear on the BRT. You shouldn't be able to pull the cable from the BRT without taking that clip off. : )
ok thx all this went well. however the reinstallation is stalled because i think the cable provided by lordco has the wrong size o-ring. it tends to spin around too easily and there is no way it's going to fit into the BRT despite greasing. we tried to fit the old o-ring and it goes in too easily, so we're looking for o-rings today!
all done now and all seems to be well too!
the speedometer works again and we've learned a 'better' way of (dis)connecting the cable from the speedometer by going through the top.
furthermore, after reading people's experiences (DON'T do this (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=35177.0) section) on burning the cable as a result of not fastening it properly, we took precautions to make sure it doesn't touch any inappropriate parts of the vehicle's body which might cause it to be damaged by excessive heat.