What causes carb to move to fast idle position? Choke thermostat?

[86Woodgrain]

Hey all, I rebuilt the stock carb about a year ago, replaced all vacuum hoses, replaced choke pull-off and choke thermostat. Used factory Carter BBD service manuals and more to rebuild the carb and it was basically PERFECT at that time.

Fast forward to this year and it runs rough and rich while warming up and refuses to go into high idle position when I do the usual press it to the floor before starting. Now it is getting cold here, like -20 C so it's definitely cold.

I haven't researched a lot yet but is it the choke thermostat that causes the linkage to move to the fast idle position? If I can get it back to going onto fast idle at cold startup I think that will fix it. The choke thermostat was new last year and I put voltage to it to test it and it does move some. I don't know how far it should move though and how fast. I think I have about 60 seconds maybe for the choke thermostat to do it's job? Not sure.

I really need to get fast idle working because I have basically parked the car for the time being while I figure it out. It's OK it's not my daily driver, fortunately.

[TheBirdman]

Yep, the choke thermostat pulls on a linkage that moves the choke plate, and a little cam that sticks under the throttle linkage, to bump it up for high idle. Theres some complicated adjustments you can make to adjust the fast idle separate from the choke, but the easiest thing to do is loosen the 3 screws around the ring that holds the choke thermostat on, then turn the thermostat so that it pulls the choke linkage further.

[86Woodgrain]

Which way should I rotate it? I rotated it counter clockwise as you are facing it. I turned it until the choke was fully open when hot. I will test cold function tomorrow.

[TheBirdman]

I forgot, but as you twist it either way, you will see the choke blade closing and opening. Go the direction that closes it more to give it more choke and fast idle.

[86Woodgrain]

Then I turned it the wrong way.

[86Woodgrain]

I tried turning it both ways and am not satisfied with it. I ordered a new CV195 from RockAuto, I'll just try replacing it. The car runs so bad I'm willing to just do that to see.

I suspect the spring inside the choke thermostat just isn't moving as much as it did when it was new. Like I said I put a new one on a year ago and it was great until the summer then once the weather got bad the cold start warmup got terrible and I didn't touch anything.

[MIPS]

The electric choke can take several minutes to move from the fully closed to the full open position. Even longer if its super cold out. When in doubt, connect the heater terminal to battery positive and hold the throttle off the cam. Depending on how clean your choke linkage is the choke plate should slowly open on its own.

Initial choke pulloff adjustment requires a cold automatic choke coil and vacuum pulling the diaphragm in. the procedure can be found on page 1J-43 of the TSM in the Eaglepedia.  https://amceaglesden.com/guide/1J_-_Fuel_Systems

Edited: Another thing I ran into this winter was that even though I washed the carb last year I found this fall as it cooled off the choke would gum up and never pull far back enough with a pedal pump to get on the Fast Idle cam. The linkage had to be cleaned before it would work again.

[86Woodgrain]

Thanks for the reply, MIPS. I have the old choke thermostat which is removed and I applied 12V to it and I could see it move but not very much.

I'm wondering if that's just a "bug" of these electronic choke thermostats. I dunno. I tried to manually move the linkage but I really couldn't say if it was gummed up. I will look at the pivot points and such when I install the new thermostat, maybe hit with a little WD40 even though it's not a very good lubricant LOL.

[MIPS]

I *think* closed-to-open movement of the coil is about 90 degrees. Still, I heave heard of the coil getting weak after decades of cycling so it could be bad. \ /

Verify the grounding contact surface between the electric choke and the carb is clean and the carburetor is properly grounded. I don't know what replacement electric choke heater you used but I'm aware some versions do not ground through the housing but with a second terminal. Holley's do it that way.

Do not lubricate the choke linkage. If its dirty or gummy use a carb cleaner on it.
I speak here from recent experience when I had to get the Eagle home from a family event on the night of the 25th and in the -30 cold found 3-in-1 oil becomes molasses and will stick a choke completely open.