Recent Posts

1

Electrical / Re: Gas Gauge Needle Wobble

« Last post by MIPS on July 25, 2024, 03:38:29 PM »

Further research and investigation is travelling into a dead end. The spare gas gauge has also now decided to act up in the extreme heat which means I again need to find another cluster to steal the gas gauge out of or I need to look into something else.

I find it hard to believe that with how crazy some people are about vehicle restorations there is nobody that could restore the original state of gauges beyond the tachometer or speedometer. Turns out there is, in fact. Several options.
I'll fire an email off to https://www.clocksandgauges.com/ and see what they think and then I guess I'll consider having the original gauge sent in for service. It will cost more but my sanity is preferred.

2

Inside Your Eagle / Re: Auto Floor Shifter Seal

« Last post by amcfool1 on July 16, 2024, 11:39:04 PM »

hi, yes they will fit. i have purchased two so far. They fit BUT, are pretty poor quality, my first one tore in a couple of months, second one seems a bit better. good luck,  gz

3

Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Heater bypass valve vacuum source?

« Last post by knobbler on July 16, 2024, 10:55:59 PM »

AC eagles have a two-piece plenum box, if I recall. Much easier to pull the main blend door assembly out without disturbing the evaporator.

They do, thankfully, so it'll be easier when the time comes for me to refurb the hvac stuff. For now I'm focused on engine/cooling/trans (with a slight deviation to the headliner, because the foam powder was killing my sinuses), then it's suspension, and after that I can focus on comfort stuff haha

4

Inside Your Eagle / Auto Floor Shifter Seal

« Last post by MIPS on July 16, 2024, 10:26:50 PM »

Like everyone, the split rubber seal that goes around the automatic floor shifter has melted into goop. I'm looking for a replacement but I need to verify what I've found will fit.
It looks like the entire floor shifter bezel assembly AMC used is identical to what Ford used on the Mustang (1974-1986) and the Pinto (1977-1979). I can find replacement seals for those but has anyone tried buying one and seeing if they fit?

5

Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Heater bypass valve vacuum source?

« Last post by MIPS on July 16, 2024, 10:17:15 PM »

AC eagles have a two-piece plenum box, if I recall. Much easier to pull the main blend door assembly out without disturbing the evaporator.

6

Cooling System / Re: Water pump

« Last post by maddog on July 16, 2024, 08:14:42 PM »

So after replacing the 4-cylinder water pump with one for a Cherokee 4.0. I was at the junkyard and happened to look into the engine compartment of an early Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 and it had the same water pump as the 4 cylinder, just with a different pulley, so it looks like you can actually use a 4-cylinder water pump. You just got to make sure to get the pulley from an early 4.0 equipped Grand Cherokee to make it work.

7

Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Front lower ball joints

« Last post by rmick on July 16, 2024, 10:58:26 AM »

That's great Ill be looking to get a kit when available.

8

Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Heater bypass valve vacuum source?

« Last post by knobbler on July 16, 2024, 01:22:45 AM »

If I recall from pulling the HVAC out of another wagon. The AC heater core bypass valve gets its vacuum source from manifold vacuum where the SelectDrive and Vacuum gauge get it. There's a coffee can booster in between and possibly a check valve so the valve does not open from weak vacuum under hard acceleration.

I've considered adding the valve to a non-AC eagle because in the summer even with the blend door switch to Cool the heater core still operates and *any* air leaks in the foam seals can make an already hot day even worse.

Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm seeing so far as well. Haven't been able to dig in that much, though, since I was getting the plenum box in and the headliner resurfaced today.

I have an AC wagon, but I cut out the compressor and related underhood stuff because it was all pretty much dead and it's gonna be a while before I have the bandwidth to get a functioning system in place. Still keeping that valve, though, for exactly the reasons you mention — especially the foam. I don't have the time to totally refurb that plenum box, and 30 year old foam just doesn't seal like it used to!

9

Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Spring Perch Bushings

« Last post by Ludworks on July 15, 2024, 07:03:27 PM »

Another solution is the "John Elles" method. Much less expensive and much easier to do at home. Melt out the old rubber and reuse the pin and bushing sleeve with polyurethane bushings. Energy suspension part #2048. Buy four of those or get kit 4.2132G which has 4 in it. Then you can drill and tap a hole for a zerk fitting in the center of the bushing sleeve if you want and grease to your hearts content.

10

Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Front lower ball joints

« Last post by Ludworks on July 15, 2024, 06:55:02 PM »

I tried a million different ball joints and configurations before I came up with the Jaguar conversion. It does require control arm modification and few extra pieces of hardware, but it allows us to use a commonly available bolt-on part, and fixes the unwanted control arm and steering arm contact. Kits to help with the conversion will be available by the end of the month. They'll be in the $30 dollar range (one kit does both sides) and then new Jaguar joints range from $15-$50 each depending on what brand you get. Overall a much less expensive option than Rare Parts or trying to source NOS.