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  • July 26, 2024, 11:56:49 PM

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Recent Posts

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11
Well hello there.

Thank you both for the kind words and watching my video.

Lower ball joint conversion kits will be available very shortly; by the end of July at the latest. I've already produced 50 kits with more on the way, I'm simply waiting on one final part to add to the kits. I've setup a business and website dedicated to replacement and reproduction Eagle parts and I'm currently working on several more items which I think will be of interest to the community. I'll make an announcement post when everything is ready to go live. Ball joint kits will start in the $30 dollar range, and one kit takes care of both sides.

The conversion kits consist of a cutting template, two reinforcement plates, ball joint fasteners, and strut rod fasteners. All fasteners are produced domestically (i.e. made in America, not imported), are zinc plated, and are Grade 8 (or better). Welding is not required, but the first kits will have bare steel reinforcement plates for those who do with to spot weld them. Later on plated/coated plates will be available for those who don't want to weld and want a nice corrosion-resistant finish.

The conversion kits do require control arm modification. The large center hole at the end of the control arm needs to be enlarged and 4 new 5/16 holes need to be drilled. With practice each arm can be done in about 10 minutes, but for the first time it'll take maybe 45 minutes per arm.

The new ball joints are Jaguar lower ball joints. They are bolt-in and have the same stud size as the factory joints so no reaming or other knuckle modification is necessary. They're readily available from a number of manufacturers, including Lemforder, who originally made them for Jaguar. They are sealed-for-life, like the original Eagle joints, and according to the Jaguar guys they have an incredibly long lifespan. Cost in 2024 for the Lemforders ranges, but they're about $35-$40 each, however Mevotech (among others) makes their own version for about $15. I hope to have Lemforders available on the website to accompany the conversion kits in the near future.

It's important to mention that there is a design defect with the original joints, and all aftermarket ones patterned after them. In the original configuration the steering arm on the knuckle smacks into the lower control arm at some suspension heights. The more compressed the front suspension is, the worse the contact. This not only damages the control arm, but it acts like an early steering stop, preventing full-lock turning and increasing the turning radius. In addition to that, it puts a tremendous side-load on the ball joint which it's not designed for. The conversion kits fix that completely by slightly lowering the control arm relative to the knuckle and eliminating the unwanted contact.

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

Oh, I almost forgot. I'll be at the AMC show in Ridgefield, WA on the 20th. I'll be wandering around admiring the Eagles, handing out business cards, and who knows, I might take along a few ball joints kits and give some out.
12
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Heater bypass valve vacuum source?
« Last post by MIPS on July 15, 2024, 04:27:50 PM »
If I recall from pulling the HVAC out of another wagon. The AC heater core bypass valve gets its vacuum source from manifold vacuum where the SelectDrive and Vacuum gauge get it. There's a coffee can booster in between and possibly a check valve so the valve does not open from weak vacuum under hard acceleration.

I've considered adding the valve to a non-AC eagle because in the summer even with the blend door switch to Cool the heater core still operates and *any* air leaks in the foam seals can make an already hot day even worse.
13
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Heater bypass valve vacuum source?
« Last post by knobbler on July 15, 2024, 06:54:03 AM »
This may help...

https://amceaglesden.com/guide/Diagram_Section

It did, thanks! I'm not sure why I didn't see the pair of lines and the switch they attach to when I was looking at the control panel diagram in my copy of the TSM, but I managed to spot them in the scanned image at that link. That gives me a good start to back trace things and get this set up correctly. Thanks again!
14
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Heater bypass valve vacuum source?
« Last post by Trooper on July 15, 2024, 04:57:20 AM »
15
Under the Hood & HVAC / Heater bypass valve vacuum source?
« Last post by knobbler on July 15, 2024, 12:15:59 AM »
Hey all! Got a couple questions if anyone can lend a hand:

Assume a completely empty engine bay, except for the single vacuum line that connects to the heater core bypass valve, and the valve itself. I see the line goes through the firewall, but I'm stumped as to where it goes from there. That leaves me with two questions:

1) What does this vacuum line connect to in the car? I believe it should be the heater control panel (specifically the bottom temperature adjuster), as from what I understand, setting it to "COLD" should cause the valve to switch to bypass the heater core.

2) What's the path and ultimate source of vacuum for this valve?

I verified the valve switches as it should when I manually apply direct vacuum, then connected the valve to the line (attached with the temp control set to "WARM"), but there's no corresponding movement in the valve switch when I set it to "COLD ." The engine and all other vacuum related stuff is out of the engine bay at the moment, so I'm hoping to figure out what this vacuum circuit should be before I start putting things back together. I assumed there was a mechanically actuated diaphragm in the dash that acted as the vacuum source, but I'm now guessing this may not be the case and would like to confirm.

If anyone can point me to a diagram or the relevant section in the TSM to help sort this stuff out, I'd appreciate it!
16
Electrical / Re: Gas Gauge Needle Wobble
« Last post by MIPS on July 12, 2024, 04:12:14 PM »
I had to reach out to the professional audio crowd about what I was talking about and a suggestion they came up with is that when the gas gauges are assembled, they use a damping grease and after 40 years it has dried out and that is why the needle waves around more than usual. This also then explains why this problem seems to apply to all pre-electronically dampened gas gauges. You are not wrong if you remember at one time long ago the needle didn't wave around as much.

Now the audio industry does not use it in meters and gauges but in knobs. As a result there's quite a few vendors selling damping grease for sliders, knobs and digital rotary encoders, for example Tribosyn:

https://youtu.be/2H5HNDy5hcE

Of note it's stable between -40 and 130c so it's ideal for vehicle applications.

So I suspect that a very light viscosity damping grease if a meter is dismantled, cleaned and regreased will even out the tank sloshing without hacking on external electronic bits. The big problem is finding it in very small quantities and the finding a light enough viscosity that it drags the needle but you don't end up with a gauge that takes ten minutes to go to F when you fill up. I wonder if this is something you could go to an audio repair shop, give them a dollar and get some on a toothpick.
17
Electrical / Re: Gas Gauge Needle Wobble
« Last post by MIPS on July 12, 2024, 12:21:01 AM »
That's fine. I pulled it out again tonight anyways to install the tachometer. Man that thing is useless on an automatic.

Anyways, the spare gas gauge now that it's installed is not much better. I don't get it. I didn't touch it and yet somehow being jostled around it's no longer "sluggish".
18
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Tie Rod Boots
« Last post by MIPS on July 11, 2024, 08:04:55 PM »
Junk.




Even with normal driving and unsalted roads, after six months the rubber was so badly cracked that the boot split.

Now for those who followed the other thread, this poses a problem now because it seems these last-on-RockAuto inner tie rods don't liked being retorqued more than once and I've done it twice already, so replacing the boots again might result in far more major problems. In that case I advise anyone reading this to take the specs listed above, find better quality rubber boots and use those.
19
Electrical / Re: Gas Gauge Needle Wobble
« Last post by djm3452004 on July 11, 2024, 08:00:04 PM »
TIL:

The temp and fuel gauges look like they are riveted to the PCB on the cluster but they are, in fact, pluggable modules.



I thought you meant look for a whole replacement cluster and was throwing a fit. This has no goddamn reason to be this modular and serviceable. It's amazing.



Sorry, I knew this and should have clarified.  I assumed you knew based on how many times you've had the cluster in/out!   ;D
20
Electrical / Re: Gas Gauge Needle Wobble
« Last post by MIPS on July 11, 2024, 07:57:02 PM »
TIL:

The temp and fuel gauges look like they are riveted to the PCB on the cluster but they are, in fact, pluggable modules.



I thought you meant look for a whole replacement cluster and was throwing a fit. This has no goddamn reason to be this modular and serviceable. It's amazing.
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