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  • August 05, 2021, 01:12:54 AM

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Recent Posts

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1
Axle / Differential / Re: Front Diff and NP231 Transfer Case
« Last post by maddog on Yesterday at 07:43:55 PM »
I'm planning on putting a 231 in mine as well once I finish playing with everything else that needs done on Eagle eyes and I'm pretty sure there have been others who have done this swap and if memory serves me correctly there is a slip yoke eliminator for the 231 case so you shouldn't have to modify your drive shaft if I'm recalling correctly.
2
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Switched 12V for HEI
« Last post by atmafox on Yesterday at 09:04:02 AM »
Yup, it was the timing.  Finally got her to fire yesterday after repeated attempts to get the timing lined up, then from there was able to dial it into where it needed to be.

I must say, this Davis Unified Ignition setup already has her sounding happier in the midrange revs even without opening up the spark plug gap.  I'll open them up to 40 or 45 thous and see how that goes, not sure yet.

First actual upgrade to my Eagle!  All the rest has been chasing repairs, so it's nice to actually be improving things beyond where factory would have been.  If anyone needs a full ignition set including ECU I'll be happy to sell my old one with fresh dizzy, coil, and plugs for a reasonable amount as soon as I'm all done verifying the upgrade performs in all conditions.  (I'm a little concerned she might break up under heavy load right now due to relatively low voltage still on that switched 12V off the ignition solenoid.)

Thanks for the help, everyone!
-Atma
3
Axle / Differential / Front Diff and NP231 Transfer Case
« Last post by BajaMx1983SX4 on August 03, 2021, 06:24:21 PM »
Hi Eagles!

Last week bought a 1983 AMC SX4 Auto trans; & I was wondering if someone swap in a NP231 tc (23 splines) to the stock 998 transmission, keeping the IFS diff?? Thinking to install XJ 4wd lever, linkage & center console; I know these  cases use a slip yoke output shaft, so driveshaft modification will be required.

Thanks 4 ur Help!
Blessings;
G.A.
4
4X4 and Driveline / 998 Auto trans, IFS Diff & NP231 Transfer case Combo
« Last post by BajaMx1983SX4 on August 03, 2021, 02:14:17 AM »
Hi guys!

Newbie here from Mexico. Last week bought a 1983 AMC SX4 Auto trans; & I was wondering if someone swap in a NP231 tc (23 splines) to the stock 998 transmission, keeping the IFS diff?? Thinking to install XJ 4wd lever, linkage & center console; I know these  cases use a slip yoke output shaft, so driveshaft modification will be required.

Thanks 4 ur Help!
Blessings;
G.A.
5
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Switched 12V for HEI
« Last post by atmafox on August 02, 2021, 11:02:16 PM »
Thanks folks.  Do need to get a spark tester, plan to go by harbor freight tomorrow to get one.

Grounds are fresh - nice big tough wire the wife put together.  Haven't been able to find the timing marks with the timing light so may actually be 180° off, unsure there.  Hard to lock in when it's compression not exhaust without taking the valve cover off unless I'm missing some trick.

Carb is not dry, had just run her before taking the old dizzy out to make sure everything was working as expected before we did and work.
6
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Switched 12V for HEI
« Last post by Taylor on August 02, 2021, 09:30:45 PM »
This is how I wired mine. I bought a redline GM style HEI from Clifford Performance. The one thing not shown in the wiring diagram is the coil. It is built into the cap and is also replaceable.
I wired exactly as shown.
I did add a diode to the alternator. Helps prevent run on. Bought 2 on eBay for about $10.00
Check your hounds too. The one from my distributor to ground wasn’t good. Took a bit of time to figure that one out.
My internet connection is sub par. I’ll try and post the wiring diagram tomorrow.
7
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Switched 12V for HEI
« Last post by Illeagle1984 on August 02, 2021, 08:39:56 PM »
Good test vangremlin, to see if the old parts work.  That would make sure the rest of the car is sound.  I am more than 1,000 miles away but I will try to help as well.  There are some quick things to check.

1.  You said it it will blink a timing light.  You can check timing while cranking; if you put the clamp on #1 cylinder, it should be on the timing marks even at cranking speeds.  If it's way off, you may be off a tooth or two on the gear.  If you're many teeth off, it can either backfire and sputter while cranking or wheel over like it has no spark.  Even if it's right on, it could be so far off it's firing on exhaust instead of compression.  The rotor would need to be rotated 180 degrees in that scenario.

2.  Open the choke and move the throttle to wide open while looking down the carb with a light.  You should see the accelerator pump squirt a jet of gas into the bore.  If not, your carb and fuel lines could be dry.  I don't know how long the job took, but both my Eagles take forever to get fuel back to the carb after sitting more than a few weeks.  If there's no fuel, a quick shot of starting fluid should light it up long enough to confirm it will run.  Use caution and do not attempt if it backfires or doesn't sound good while cranking.

3.  Make double sure the firing order is good.  Also make sure that rotor can't be installed backwards.  Always gotta double check the basic things when you put new parts in and they seem not to work.  With engine turned to TDC on compression the rotor should be pointing near the #1 wire on the cap.  Also what's your key-on power wire situation?  If the red/green resistance wire for the stock coil is anywhere in your power wire, it may mess with your new setup.

4.  Check for actual spark.  I use a $10 spark tester, get the one with a real gap instead of the test light style with a bulb.  Though I know that depending on where you live in CO, you can't just run down to the parts store quick.  So you can put any old spark plug on the end of one of the wires and lay it near the shock tower or somewhere else metal where it won't fall while cranking.  Crank while you watch and listen for spark.  If you used a plug out of your engine, watch for compressed fuel spray.  It should easily jump the plug gap and the gap from the plug to the car and make a crisp little snap.  HEIs can usually jump an inch gap with no problem.

If none of that reveals a problem, there's lots more we can check.  I'm just in it for the reward beers.  ;)
8
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Switched 12V for HEI
« Last post by vangremlin on August 02, 2021, 07:44:57 PM »
Did you pull out the standard distributor to replace with the new HEI?  If so, if you reinstall the standard distributor, does it go back to working?

I have an HEI that I used to have in my Kammback, you're welcome to try plugging that one in and see if you get any different results.  I'm in Centennial CO.
9
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Switched 12V for HEI
« Last post by atmafox on August 02, 2021, 04:07:20 PM »
Ok I'm putting a call out to anyone in the greater Denver metro that can help.  I'll offer a case of your favorite beer or whatever else is desired because the wife and I simply cannot get the motor to catch with this HEI.
10
Altered Eagles / Re: Body swap
« Last post by Billman on August 02, 2021, 03:31:57 PM »
I have a couple of xj front axles laying around waiting for time to install under a wagon. Just got too :censored: many irons in the fire to get it done. As far as I remember, the frame rails are spaced out differently. Modifications to the lower control arms mounts will be necessary.
One of the front half assemblys I've got was cut out including the floor from a 95 XJ.
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