Recent posts

#1

Fuel Systems. / Re: Fuel tank

Last post by vangremlin - April 25, 2025, 04:01:38 PM

Looks like it could work. Here are a couple pictures of my Kammback tank. You might be able to use the Kammback/SX/4 sending unit, or add a fitting for the return line. You maybe able the adapt some fuel filler hose to work with the inlet.

I've also included a screenshot of those new tanks. It would be great if this guy could provide some dimensions.

Thanks for the link!You cannot view this attachment.

#2

The Engine / Re: Drain Plug Shenanigans

Last post by Taylor - April 25, 2025, 01:44:23 PM

Had that happen with my wife's car 13-14 years ago. She got it from her mom. Her mom always had general maintenance done at a certain local shop. Not a good one and it was part of a national chain.
I went to re install the drain plug, added a rubber washer. Realized quickly that the threads were toast. Being that this was the first time I touched the car I knew how it had happened.
Ordered a heli coil kit, drilled it, threaded and installed the reinforced coil and a new bolt with a rubber washer. Never had a problem afterwards.
I think i ordered the kit from granger. Might be able to find one elsewhere. It came with everything needed to do the work except the drill.

#3

The Engine / Re: Drain Plug Shenanigans

Last post by 89 MJ - April 25, 2025, 12:42:07 PM

I'd start with chasing the threads and changing the drain plug, but not until the next oil change.

#4

The Engine / Drain Plug Shenanigans

Last post by MIPS - April 25, 2025, 11:27:55 AM

When I got my Eagle it originally had a copper washer on the oil drain plug and was hard to keep it from leaking. I replaced it with a rubber/metal washer which doesn't require as much effort to tighten it on and it hasn't leaked since.

Well about two years ago I did the oil and forgot about the washer and reefed it on pretty hard. It didn't leak but the last three times I took the plug out and then back in all I can say is that the threads felt "weird". You couldn't insert or remove it by hand because it would bind in the threads and was difficult to keep it from cross-threading. Visually the threads in the pan looked okay and so did the threads on the plug but the inner shoulder had worn down. I had to replace the washer because I had more or less ruined it by that one over-tightening. Last night it went for the annual change again and this time while it came out relatively easily it would not snug up when put back in. Thing is the threads on both sides still look okay so if I've pulled the threads out of the pan it's not immediately evident.
What's confusing me more is I added an extra washer to the plug and while it didn't completely snug up like it should it did thread-in firmly and it hasn't leaked overnight, so...?

If the damage is done, sure I'll admit it but I'm confused why it's still grabbing enough threads to seal if I just add the washer. Worn drain plug? Everything needs the thread chased? No idea if this has been fitted with an oversized plug.

#5

Fuel Systems. / Fuel tank

Last post by rmick - April 24, 2025, 11:21:17 PM

Wonder if you could make this tank work for an SX/4 The fill neck would need to be reworked and the sending unit does not have the return tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajIBbQthyMw

#6

Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: 1985 wagon AC

Last post by vangremlin - April 21, 2025, 06:45:24 PM

I'm no A/C expert, but I believe those switches came into play when they started putting the round, Sanden type compressors in the Eagles.  With the old York compressors, there was a separate oil component so the compressor would stay lubricated even if all the refrigerant leaked out.  In the Sanden units, the oil was mixed in with the refrigerant, so if there was a leak, the oil was gone too.


Again, I'm no expert but that is my understanding.

#7

Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: 1985 wagon AC

Last post by MIPS - April 21, 2025, 03:51:05 PM

I can't remember if the Eagle had only a high or low pressure cut-out switch located next to the condenser sight glass but I have noticed a lot of eagles lose their loop pressure. Depending on how desperate you want AC (it is actually really nice when it works) I'd start with having the system pumped down to vacuum and seeing how long it takes to leak back up again.

#8

Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: 1985 wagon AC

Last post by 89 MJ - April 21, 2025, 02:08:33 PM

I would guess that it just needs a charge. I could be wrong, but I believe that most AC systems won't even turn the compressor on if they are too low on refrigerant.

#9

Under the Hood & HVAC / 1985 wagon AC

Last post by Greg - April 21, 2025, 01:37:56 PM

Hello!  I recently purchased an 85 wagon with AC. I tried the AC recently by simply turning to Max AC. The air was not cool.  Should I have it charged or should I first check the AC compressor to see if it works, and how do I go about checking the compressor, please?  Thanks in advance 

#10

Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Jeep XJ Shackles on an Eag...

Last post by 89 MJ - April 21, 2025, 12:07:06 AM

That does look like a good way to go, especially with all of the adjustability. Another option would be a spring slider. You'd lose height, but supposedly they're great for performance applications. They seem like they'd be the most rigid option for cornering. I don't know how they do off road though, if that's much of a concern. I know a guy that had them on the front of an IH Scout and said they were great.