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  • June 06, 2024, 07:56:23 AM

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Author Topic: electrical help needed  (Read 16194 times)

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Offline Mitch

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #75 on: September 22, 2020, 04:50:25 AM »

Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #76 on: September 22, 2020, 09:13:21 PM »
Taylor, the terminal that bolts to the firewall is not cracked...its kind of an illusion with the sealant covering the gaps.

Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #77 on: September 23, 2020, 04:13:26 PM »
rmick, does this pic look like the haedlight relay modification was already done to my car? Hopefully the picture loads.

Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #78 on: September 23, 2020, 04:18:24 PM »
canoe, harness pic. new stero to old stereo which would then plug into harness from car.

Online Taylor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #79 on: September 23, 2020, 04:39:03 PM »
Taylor, the terminal that bolts to the firewall is not cracked...its kind of an illusion with the sealant covering the gaps.
Good news. Have you tried to clean off the sealant to check for corrosion?
I wonder if adding a ground specific to the radio would help? Someone with better electric experience might have a idea on this one.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2020, 04:47:40 PM by Taylor »
2010 Toyota Rav4 pack mule, totaled 3/26/24 rear ended REAL HARD. concussion and whiplash. not fun
1999 Ford E250 conversion/work van 238,000 see if it will make 300,000
1985 AMC Eagle Limited Wagon 🖖🏼🦅
2020 Honda Africa Twin, the long haul trucker

Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #80 on: September 23, 2020, 04:46:45 PM »
The connectors did not show signs of corrosion, so the connector is bolted back on for now. I will try to check high/low switch per canoe to look for any thing obvious. i think I had seen somewhere how to access the high low switch on the column.

Online Taylor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #81 on: September 23, 2020, 04:51:21 PM »
This is the kind of work ( electronic ) that gives me a migraine. I spent all winter and half the spring ( minimum 5 months ) upgrading my ignition and cleaning up the bad wiring under the hood. Cleaned all the grounds etc.
2010 Toyota Rav4 pack mule, totaled 3/26/24 rear ended REAL HARD. concussion and whiplash. not fun
1999 Ford E250 conversion/work van 238,000 see if it will make 300,000
1985 AMC Eagle Limited Wagon 🖖🏼🦅
2020 Honda Africa Twin, the long haul trucker

Offline rmick

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #82 on: September 23, 2020, 11:12:00 PM »
Yes that looks like the relay mod. You can reconnect the fire wall connector and check to see if you have power from the switch to the relays the headlights should be getting power from the battery directly or from the power side of the starter relay trough the relays. The head light switch controls the relay so all the power for the headlights dont go through the switch.   Make sure these are related to the head lights here is the harness I used had to swap a couple of pins and installed better relays.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-H4-Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-4-Headlamp-Light-Socket-Fix-Dim-Light/231561377196?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D227684%26meid%3D9c52cb69da284a6bb99c0ff1b4550816%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D131523593605%26itm%3D231561377196%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bGenderDemotion%26brand%3DOEM&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
« Last Edit: September 23, 2020, 11:17:23 PM by rmick »
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Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #83 on: September 24, 2020, 09:23:57 AM »
Can anyone tell me where the headlights are actually grounded to where the location is

Offline Canoe

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #84 on: September 24, 2020, 11:47:25 AM »
The third brake light looks to be after market. My father in laws father, was a mechanic, this was his car originally, he may have added the light. Tomorrow I will post a pic of the dash box for that third brake light.
This box is likely for controlling electric brakes on a trailer.

 
canoe, harness pic. new stero to old stereo which would then plug into harness from car.
That's what I'm looking for, but in high res so I can check for the faults I suspect. How are those wires joined under that electrical tape?

... I wonder if adding a ground specific to the radio would help? Someone with better electric experience might have a idea on this one.
The old radio worked. So its ground was good. The new radio worked. So its ground was good.
When the rear electric defroster was turned on, it somehow put high current onto the ground within that modified harness.

Apart from finding and fixing that connection, it's not a good idea to be providing alternate paths for current to flow, as that can have unintended consequences.

Sometimes one can identify a better way to do things, like using headlight relays to avoid bringing that higher current across the firewall and running through switches. But that has to be done right.

This car has had portions of its electrical system changed. Prior to the recent modification of the stereo connection, as far as is known, there were no faults noticed. That's a task to figure out with the various mods what was intended vs. what was done, and if that has caused or taken any damage. I would put that on hold right now. Don't change anything, or you're making a moving target. Or worse, things start working, and you think you've fix the problem, but you've just provided an alternate current path and left the original fault undetected lurking to cause further, possibly worse, damage down the road.

The original incident involved the new stereo, the modified stereo connections and turning the rear defroster on. Those need to be thoroughly checked. Like checking the wiring connections to the rear defroster - were they changed from stock. What are they now (where does it ground). The ground wire for the stereo has to be checked back to its grounding and repaired as necessary.

Before the battery is connected, the ground to the car's body under the hood should be disconnected, cleaned and re-established to remove this common fault point from the situation. Do not skip this if the connection looks good; a number of cars that appeared to have a good ground connection had hidden corrosion (use dielectric grease to reduce this risk), that once cleaned and reconnected, returned the car to operating normally. If that cable/wire/strap's wires are corroded badly, that should be replaced as it may not be able to properly handle the required current or may be degraded enough that it's acting as a resistor. A replacement should be a sealed cable, like battery ground cables, so the wires are protected from corrosion.


Offline Canoe

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #85 on: September 24, 2020, 12:01:27 PM »
... I will try to check high/low switch per canoe to look for any thing obvious. i think I had seen somewhere how to access the high low switch on the column.

Need to remove the lower dash cover below the steering column. Switch is ~10 to ~12 inches forward of its control lever, at around 11 o'clock on the column.
Quote from: from email
... high/low headlight switch. It's the number one cause of failed headlights, which you report, and they're notorious for melting, and we've got stray current melting things. Check the control lever. Does it switch/click from one position to another: if not, it may have failed (usually melted inside somewhere) or it may need adjustment. Its two fasteners allow its position to be adjusted up/down the steering column such that the control lever can switch it.

If it's switching/clicking, pull the connector out of the socket on the switch. Does the switch anywhere along its length (not just in the socket) look melted or black. Give us a photo of that whole switch - lots of us have seen this fault before and should recognize it. If the switch does click/switch, check the continuity of the pins. Use a multimeter, its continuity circuit or its resistance circuit. Either will show which of the three pins are connected to which pins within the switch, for each of the two switch positions.

Quote
Removed old stereo
          1.) Noticed defroster switch buzzed in on position.
I missed the "in on position". That buzzing may have been the defrost timer.
Quote
Here's a curious one. With the new stereo pulled out, if you put the defroster switch back in now, does it buzz?

Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #86 on: September 24, 2020, 12:50:04 PM »
The defroster buzzer only went on when either stereo was not in

Offline Canoe

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #87 on: September 24, 2020, 12:54:30 PM »
The defroster buzzer only went on when either stereo was not in
But only when you also turned the switch on?
With the stereo & harness still out, have you put that switch back in? Does it buzz, off? On?

Offline framedoctor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #88 on: September 24, 2020, 01:16:57 PM »
Yes with the stereo and harness out it still buzzes

Online Taylor

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Re: electrical help needed
« Reply #89 on: September 24, 2020, 04:32:05 PM »
As for the headlight ground, the only one I know of directly connected to that circuit is behind and somewhat below the driver side low beam bulb. There might be one for the switch but I don’t know.
As for the two relays on the left fender, I believe 1 is for the manifold heater and the other should be for the horn.
2010 Toyota Rav4 pack mule, totaled 3/26/24 rear ended REAL HARD. concussion and whiplash. not fun
1999 Ford E250 conversion/work van 238,000 see if it will make 300,000
1985 AMC Eagle Limited Wagon 🖖🏼🦅
2020 Honda Africa Twin, the long haul trucker

 

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