My 82 build, slow (but hopefully) progress

[Mr_Roboto]

Awesome, thanks. Bit of an update:
-I found out the hi/low beam connector on the column isn't connected great
-I found out that the head lamp bulb connectors themselves are terrible
-I found out that the turn signals work except the flasher unit
-I need a few bulbs and a socket for a dash light

Deoxit is going to be required I think, and I have new connectors on the way. I still need a windshield wiper knob although I established that everything works except when I push the button to get wiper pump. Then again the tank doesn't exist either so that probably makes a difference.

Since I have everything apart, how hard is a tach dash to swap in?

Other than that seems to be coming along pretty well. I bought a couple small stubs of exhaust pipe today and have been trying to figure out where I want to shove the T66 at and where the intercooler's going to go. I'm thinking about an air to water although I may pull out the rad real quick to see if I can make the air to air fit.

[rmick]

Info for installing a more reliable ford tach. http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=38475.0

[Mr_Roboto]

New fuel line made. Not "A/C hose" but actual fuel line. I also got the throttle linkage done. There wasn't much if any coolant in it, I need a head bolt still and the vacuum lines all need hooked up but it's coming along. I may have to figure out a manifold for the vac lines, the dizzy was connected into the air cleaner side of the carb. I don't know where you all stand on the ported/unported vacuum debate but I don't think that either side would think that's a good idea!

I also need to get the dash back together, get a few more bulbs for turn signals and get a new turn signal unit. This one is junk. I'm going to get some new headlight connectors and do a wiring upgrade w/relays there and after that I think I'll have the preponderance of the electrical good enough to drive around a bit.

I also got an engine today, a high mileage 94. I don't have much concern with it since the engine's EFI, everything I've heard about 4.0 blocks is the material is better than an SBC and almost all EFI Era SBCs I've ever seen have had cross hatch in the bores still. I'll probably be pulling pistons out to do rings and regap anyways if not trying to find a spare 258 crank. Regrettably it seemed to have the "later" dizzy in it.  I want to find an earlier one I can change from a cam sensor to a crank sensor (6 pulses every 2 revolutions instead of 1) via getting the reluctor from a 91-95ish 300 inline 6. That'll get me further along on the future Megasquirt install. I will probably do the head carbed first honestly, then work my way to the rest. I can also take the Duraspark Dizzy and just use the circuit with an HEI module as Megasquirt outlines. It wouldn't carry any more current than required to operate the module and drive the input circuit so I'd think it would have a nice easy life.

I still really need to dig an alternator bracket up. I have some ARP head bolts on the way as well, not sure if I got a 258 set or a 258+4.0 head set. If the lengths (one length vs short/long) are wrong for this head I'll probably just put the one bolt in for now.

[Mr_Roboto]

Well, good news and bad news. Good news is the engine was definitely rebuilt and near 0 hours.

The bad news is that I stuck a dial indicator on the valve train. The cam came as .384 valve lift. I am not going to even degree it. I will validate the intake lift again but it is stock. This was supposed to have a Comp Cam in it, so that's kind of a bummer. I bet it is 20-30HP on the table.

I also did have to clearance the firewall to get the valve cover off. Tight clearance.

Up next arp head bolts. Good news there is I have the correct ones.

[Mr_Roboto]

Out with the old



In with the ARP. This was surprisingly easy, I just did 1 at a time. Notice in the before I stuck the ARP bolt in the hole that had a broken off bolt.



I was going to decide to use the rally gauges or not. Decided against it, don't have a clue if the tach works but the galvanometer in side seems really fragile and I have a Sunpro on the column...



This is the second prototype. The mounting hole were wrong and the gauge cup was too big. I'll get it right.



Final revision. I widened it a bit, widened the hole spacing and made the gauge hole slightly smaller.


Mounted, fits great. Wide band here I go.



A bit janky but universal fit and easily replaced. If worse comes to worse I'll ABS glue it in. I don't think that will be required.


Lookin good, I think I'll leave it although I should probably just paint it. May as well show my 3D printedness.


Time to shift gears for a CS130 swap. These bolt in where a 10SI or 12SI does on most vehicles, tractors, ICBMs etc. The big connector goes to the power terminal of the alternator, the brown wire goes to the orange/white wire that leads to the dash gauge.


Alternator installed. I got a non A/C bracket for a decent weight savings and more importantly it's complete! If you notice in the corner I have the fuse holder. 100A fuse for a 105A alternator that puts out significantly more idle current than even a 12SI.




I was trying to get it started, my gas is trash even after sticking 12 gallons into the tank. Decided to swap in a Renix Flexplate, a crank sensor (going to try and stick the Hall Effect Sensor in) and maybe do a governor swap and do a stall converter if plausible. The latter may not happen but who knows.


Starting to fit this in. The beginning of "bad ideas." Will probably sit for a while, but it fits and I can't believe that. This is the standard 3" thick "ebay" intercooler. I think plumbing this in is going to be not horrible which is better than I thought. I do need to fab brackets. It absolutely barely fits, but it does so with minimal work and mods.


This is what my gas looked like. Yuck!


I also did some body work. This seemed to take forever and I'm not even close to done but it's got metal covered up and all black even if it is different blacks.




Just rattle can. I've got a spray gun but am not ready to use it yet. I was hoping to hit a cruise or two this year so this is interim.


Still working on getting the trans out. I want to get it sealed up better since it seems to weep and leak like a sieve too.