1988 only will start in start posistion

[kr2222]

i have a 1988 eagle wagon with 81k miles , dont have any history with it bought it that way, the ptroblem im having is it only starts in the start posistion, new cap, wires plugs,and ignition switch, new wires, new carb, starter solenoid, o2 sencor and ignition module all new. also pick up inside of disbutor. And it will only TRY to start in the start posistion that is if i hold the key in start. ciol is new also.

[mudkicker715]

I am confused, what your saying is normal.

[maddog]

Yeah I'm confused as well because that's how all of my Eagles have started and for that matter every other vehicle I have owned. So my question is what are you expecting it to do.

[MIPS]

I *think* he means that if he turns the key to START it will crank, fire and run but as soon as he releases the key and it goes back to RUN it dies again?

[AMC of Houston]

He mentioned it'll "try to run" in the start position.    So could be lack of fuel?   Or maybe a timing chain that has skipped a couple of teeth?   That's a common symptom of a timing chain not quite in the right place.

[kr2222]

sorry i shoulfd had said it will start in the start position but when i let go of the key in run it shuts down

[AMC of Houston]

OK; so it sounds like something electrical.  I didn't see the coil on your list of replaced parts.  Have you checked the coil??  Normal voltage to the positive terminal of the coil with the key in the "on" position is around 6 volts.  With the key to "start", the voltage there should be full battery voltage.   Sometimes with a bad coil, that extra voltage at start will cause a bad coil to work well enough to start the engine.

Also check the coil resistance across the 2 small terminals - should be somewhere between 1 and 1.5 ohms (depends on temperature).   Next check resistance between either small terminal and the center tower coil wire contact - should be 7,700 to 9,300 ohms at 75 degrees; could be higher at higher temps.   If the readings fail either of these tests, replace the coil.

If the coil checks out OK, then need to look elsewhere.  There is a great step-by-step troubleshooting procedure in the MR251 Eagle Shop Manual (starting on page C-61).   I could scan it for you if needed; but check the coil first and report back.

[kr2222]

yes the ciol is new but i got it that way, i will test it anyway. thank you.

[mudkicker715]

so we are ruling out the rod from the key to the actual ignition switch. idk but maybe the rod is not working it properly.

[maddog]

I know it might sound crazy but is it possible there's a short in the wires that go to the starter solenoid that allow it to start but not run.

[MIPS]

Other than a bad ballast resistor, a column ignition switch that doesn't pass power in the ON position or a break in the wiring between the ignition module and the starter solenoid another thing is that in later models the ignition tach passes through the computer. I don't know if this is bypassed during starting but make sure the computer is receiving power in the RUN position.

[kr2222]

ok back working on the eagle. tested  the coil and and found it is good but i have battery voltage at the positive side of the coil in the on position, ballis resitor? where is it?

[AMC of Houston]

Its actually a piece of "resistance" wire.   The next step in the test procedure is to unplug the "I" terminal wire from the starter solenoid, then check the voltage at the coil positive terminal (with ignition on).    If it drops down to where it should be, replace the solenoid.  If it is still at battery voltage, then could be other problem.

Tell you what; I'm gonna scan the test procedure and email it to you.   If you plan to keep the ol' Bird, get a copy of the MR251 manual - they are all over Ebay - money well spent!

[Illeagle1984]

So you're saying if you hold the key to start, it will fire up and continue run with requisite 'starter zing' correct?  If that's the case, it's definitely electrical.  With the key on, engine off, does the radio & blower motor work?  If so, I'd say the ignition switch et. al. are probably okay.  Buuuut, it also sounds like there's a main wire that should have power with key on but does not, which the ignition switch controls...You're looking for somewhere that should have power with key on, but instead only has power in start.  You might start with the fuse block; just turn the key on and start poking with a test light.  If there is a major fuse or two that doesn't have power in run but does in start, you can look upstream toward that ignition switch.

I would disconnect the big wire from the starter to make diagnosis simpler.  That way you can focus on testing instead of listening to the engine and cough all over the place.

*edit* Is there anywhere I can see a list of censored words?  It doesn't bother me, actually it made me laugh because it was a kindergarten level word, PG rated at worst and it just surprised me that it was removed.   

[kr2222]

the ignition switch and starter soleniod are new but i will check the as you mentioned to be sure. thanks.