Growling on turns - Defective Bearing?

[MIPS]

I had both my front wheel bearings replaced last year around this time and about a month ago I noticed that I was developing a growl but I can't tell specifically what it could be besides one of the bearings failing already. I wonder if a seal failed.
Driving straight is fine. Steering to the left is fine but steering to the right gives me a pretty concerning growl  from the front drivers side at speed and vibration I can feel through my shoe. I am coming up on a brake overhaul so it could be a rotor touching the caliper but it could also be a CV that's not liking be spun at certain angles.

[johnbendik]

When I experienced this exact same symptom, it was indeed my first sign of a failed wheel bearing.  I ignored it for a while, but when it got worse I jacked up the left front and checked for free play in the wheel.  I was able to shake it side to side.

If you have that (and your lug nuts are tight), it's likely to be the wheel bearing.  With a failing CV axle, the entire wheel can be moved in and out, but if the movement is push/pull from one side to the other, it's probably the bearing.

Good luck with it.  Fixing mine was the biggest PITA I've had with my Eagle so far, and it is hard to find shops who know how to press the new bearings in... they are all used to just switching in a new hub, which is not an option with the Eagle.  I eventually had mine done by a local Jeep shop (All Out Off Road, of CMT show “Trick My What?”  fame).

JB

[Illeagle1984]

It could be a lot of different things.  I actually worked on a car a couple weeks ago that did the same thing, and it turned out the brake pads were nearly grinding.  No noise while braking, but the rust on the outer edge of the rotor was rubbing on part of the metal backing plate of the pad itself while turning one direction.  Not saying that's what it is on yours, but if it's time for brakes anyway, you might get those done and get the bearing checked at the same time.

I did a wheel bearing on mine a few years back; all you need is a shop press and a brass punch to beat the new races in.  Any machine shop or transmission/drivetrain shop should have these tools.  The parts rundown:

2x A6 bearing (Advance, National brand)
1x 7686S inner wheel seal (Auto Zone)
1x 8429S outer wheel seal (Auto Zone)

Just make sure to be aware of a big metal washer between the wheel bearing assembly and the CV axle; if it's not there, the bearing will fail pretty quickly.

[MIPS]

It turned out to be a badly worn inner brake pad. The caliper pins were also seized so I had to change the rotor, pads and the caliper pins and pin bushings.

[Taylor]

Good thing it wasn’t the bearing or any other parts you already replaced. Another symptom too look out for. I think that is what is wrong with my rav4 worn caliper bolts.
Did you notice a improvement in breaking? When I replaced mine, the calipers and even all the fluid. Great improvement.

[MIPS]

Braking still seemed the same aside from no more wobble from the front end so I guess the rotors were warped as well.
I did a fluid change while I was in there as I've been flushing debris out of the system for the last three years. It's getting considerably clearer every year now.

[vangremlin]

Glad to hear it was a pretty straightforward fix!