News:

Putting FUN and FRIENDLINESS, FIRST into owning and learning about AMC small bodied cars, primarily Eagles, Spirits and Concords as well as vehicles built in AMC's Mexican subsidiary, VAM.

The AMC Eaglepedia can now be accessed using the buttons found below  This is a comprehensive ever growing archive of information, tips, diagrams, manuals, etc. for the AMC Eagle and other small bodied AMC cars. 

Also a button is now available for our Face Book Group page.


Welcome to the AMC Eagles Nest.  A new site under "old" management -- so welcome to your new home for everything related to AMC Eagles, Spirits and Concords along with opportunities to interact with other AMC'ers.  This site will soon be evolving to look different than it has and we will be incorporating new features we hope you will find useful, entertaining and expand your AMC horizons.

You can now promote your topics at your favorite social media site by clicking on the appropriate icon (top upper right of the page) while viewing the topic you wish to promote.

Main Menu

Viscous coupling failure?

Started by Jward408.jw2, January 31, 2021, 08:51:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Jward408.jw2

Ok so the noise is definitely coming from the right rear hub area. Is there anything specific that I need to know before axle replacement? I know a lot of things vary from year to year, model to model. Should I be looking for a specific axle or are these pretty much universal throughout the eagle family?

AMC of Houston

All Eagle rear axles are the same; year-to-year, and side-to-side.   But it has to come off an Eagle; other AMC passenger car axles won't work (even tho some Hollander mis-info says otherwise).  If you get a left side axle (preferred), you'll still have to press off the hub to get the backing plates swapped out (and of course put a new bearing on it while you're at it).    Also going back together be sure to set the axle end play per the TSM (no shims go on the right side; only the left).  You'll find that usually will have to reduce the shim pack thickness due to normal wear on the diff spacer block).

And don't put the new bearing on backwards!!   I've seen it done by AMC-inexperienced shops!!   Outcome wasn't pretty.....

Good luck finding an axle (they're out there).
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo
'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
'10 Nissan Maxima

MIPS

For curiosity sake (you can't really drive the car right now anyways), raise and support that corner with a jackstand and then give the wheel a good wiggle and pull. If the break is on the outside portion of the shaft the wheel and drum should pull right off.

Jward408.jw2

It's actually drivable in 4wd the front axles are popping so I'm sure they're due for replacement also but it drives fine. Even in 2wd it does excellent until a hill. I can't find an axle for the rear anywhere though.

vangremlin

Quote from: Jward408.jw2 on February 04, 2021, 01:27:32 AM
I can't find an axle for the rear anywhere though.

You could try car-part.com.  They sometimes have those hard to find parts available used.  Good luck!
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

Thack

There is one more option for what's going on, the transfer case is in 4WD and the diaphragm in broken. When you select 2wd the axle disconnects and the viscous coupler is supplying power to the rear but losing power to the open front. It would make taking off and loads feel like it was slipping. Changing the selector to 4WD would close the open power loss and would drive pretty much normal. To confirm this look at the transfer case lever in both 2wd and 4WD to see if it has moved.

Tom H

rmick

72 Javelin AMX
72 Javelin SST
72 Gremlin with 4.0
81 SX 4

Jward408.jw2

Ok, I feel like such an idiot for this but the selector lever wasn't locking fully into 2wd. I'd like to apologize and thank everyone for their advice. I was poking and prodding around under there yesterday and took the transfer case cover off to see the selector better and cleaned it really good there was debris caked up on the lever/nut and the rod didn't seem to be getting the vacuum it needs to fully shift it.

AMC of Houston

Glad it was an easy fix!!    Here's hoping you never experience the dreaded right axle failure!!
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo
'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
'10 Nissan Maxima

Jward408.jw2

Manually locked it into 2wd and took it through a gravel parking lot. It's definitely locked in.

Jward408.jw2

Good news is I located a 1988 parts car nearby good motor trans vtc and diff.

vangremlin

Glad it worked out for you.  You're not the first one to experience that problem!

That parts car will come in handy!
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

MIPS

#27
I found that after 35 something years it's worth the time to remove both SelectDrive actuators, clean and lubricate the shafts. The front one especially as it has a vent that allows road dirt into the shaft cavity can and will seize it up. Likewise inspect the rubber grommets that connect the various rigid plastic lines to the steel lines. I've had a set which were deformed and swollen from soaking up too much rubber softening engine additives over the years.
The system runs off manifold vacuum and uses a vacuum reservoir as a booster. Neither actuator needs a strong vacuum to operate, just a constant vacuum. Take a small piece of vacuum line and you should be able to operate both using your mouth. ;)

vangremlin

Quote from: MIPS on February 09, 2021, 01:19:21 AM
Take a small piece of vacuum line and you should be able to operate both using your mouth. ;)

May I suggest using a piece of "fresh" vacuum line?   :rotfl:
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk