Author Topic: 4.0 swap with built driveline (Read 23341 times)

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #15 on:** March 17, 2018, 09:59:16 PM »

LOL... ok. So a 2.35 can be converted to "normal" gears using the appropriate carrier in addition to the gearset.

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 18, 2018, 08:45:35 PM »

No guarantees, but i remember that being said. My search of this forum came up emptyish for that being the case though.

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #17 on:** March 20, 2018, 08:01:06 PM »

Thanks!

Not super relevant to my swap because I already have the 3.54's, but 'tev.

Got the clutch bolts loctited and torqued (40 ftlbs on a 3/8" bolt!) over the weekend.

How easily to Dana 30's break? I've heard the solid fronts are kind of tough for their size.

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 20, 2018, 08:12:16 PM »

Why loktite the clutch bolts? I never did, but i also eat starters, probs unrelated just asking why.

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #19 on:** March 20, 2018, 08:29:16 PM »

Just for general assurance to make sure they don't back out.

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #20 on:** March 27, 2018, 09:19:28 PM »

NV3550 throw out mechanism

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #21 on:** April 08, 2018, 08:22:56 AM »

I've run into a similar problem with engine to transmission dowels as I had with clutch bolts and flywheel bolts... nobody has them!
The Mopar PN is J4005148. I can't get a pair for less than $25. WTF?

Carquest, Autozone, Dorman, Summit... none of the usual suspects have listings for the 2000 Wrangler application.

Ooops... HAH! I lied. My last minute search-Fu turned up a listing on Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dur-ad148/overview/

I found a bunch more rust than I was expecting on my target body. I'll go ahead with the swap and just run it until it breaks in half and move the powertrain to another body.
Now to order that E-Locker...

eaglefreek · « **Reply #22 on:** April 08, 2018, 10:11:25 AM »

Actually, I've read somewhere that the housing is machined differently for the 2.35 gears. There was a long thread with a bunch of info, but I think it was a victim of the big delete.

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #23 on:** April 24, 2018, 07:47:13 PM »

Oh, ok. More fun with parts I'll never be interested in.

The dowels were delivered to my dad's house today; I should get to play with them over the weekend. That's the only thing keeping me from mating up the engine and trans (I think). I'll have to re-organize the chains and set up the leveler, but that's not too hard. I need to get the chain off the A/C compressor bracket, so I can unbolt it and measure its bolt pattern. I'll mount a plate to carry a York single cylinder A/C compressor between that bracket and the block. That will become and engine driven air compressor

eaglefreek · « **Reply #24 on:** April 25, 2018, 08:04:51 AM »

An onboard compressor will be nice. I've installed everything except for the compressor on my Isuzu Trooper. I need to get that finished. How are you going to plumb it? Here's my setup http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=85421&hilit=Revive&start=50#p5228538

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #25 on:** May 07, 2018, 08:02:50 PM »

Had a fun time getting the transmission mated to the engine.

AMC engine to transmission dowels have limited availability. Dura-Bond AD148 is the only part I found that does the job. Summit carries them. I snagged a pair.

At first I couldn't get the engine & trans to fully mate. The contact spring in the slave cylinder was apparently enough, in conjunction with the mechanical advantage of the throw out fork and friction in the splines to prevent me from shaking the transmission on that last 1/2".

On a hunch I unbolted the slave... it went on easy peasy.

Now 556# as pictured.

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #26 on:** June 08, 2018, 09:10:26 PM »

I bolted up the modded NP 229 T-case:

I *briefly* had a scare about having to pull it back off for repair because I couldn't shift it, but once I understood the force required on the linkage and the order in which the shifters had to operate, it worked fine.

The above doesn't show it, but it's on a leveler as well:

~650# as pictured. By the time I add the diff, the alternator, the A/C compressor and the air compressor, the powertrain is going to be 800#, and that doesn't even include the rear axle!

I also installed the rear output yoke with a yoke seal (It's a factory fixed yoke):

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #27 on:** June 16, 2018, 09:09:57 AM »

Here's the money shot from the NP229:

Dual shifters *AND* the Eagle tailshaft housing orientation

vangremlin · « **Reply #28 on:** June 24, 2018, 02:58:44 PM »

All very impressive! Thanks for sharing the pictures and your work with us.

The Dark Side of Will · « **Reply #29 on:** September 02, 2018, 09:18:19 PM »

As noted previously in this thread, the diff snout bracket is the only part that needs to be made in order to do a 4.0 swap.

My initial takes on it ended up with very minimal clearance to the stock 4.0 manifold and stock Cherokee downpipe that I have.

I finally had a realization of a simple change I could make that would dramatically increase clearance to the downpipe.

Before: