You bought what?? 88 Eagle Wagon - Overlander Build

[Prafeston]

Weird now none of them are showing

[eaglefreek]

Weird now none of them are showing

For me, none were and still aren't showing since the last post with pics was posted.

[amarshall]

Weird now none of them are showing

For me, none were and still aren't showing since the last post with pics was posted.

Arrrgh!  Just edited, hopefully that fixes it.  Really getting fed up with Google, I swear the "edit" process is just delete the old link, copy and paste the exact same thing again.  Not like I'm really changing anything.  Thanks guys.

[eaglefreek]

I can see them now. That's weird you needed shock extenders for the rear. I added 3 leaves on each side to my rear springs which lifted it a bit and didn't have any issues with stock replacement Monroes fitting.

[amarshall]

The rear shocks probably would have been OK at ride height, or even within normal driving ranges.  They were only too short when I let the rear axle hang at maximum drop, and then only by 1-1/2" or so. The extensions were longer than that but they were the shortest I could find.

Thanks for feedback on the pics.  My theory is that there is a delay after the pics are uploaded to Google, when they "process" the image somehow.  I seem to have better luck if I wait a while before grabbing the link.  I'm using the same process to "fix" the posts, and by then all the images have been up there for at least a couple hours.

[amarshall]

I was able to patch my torn axle boot.  It was in good shape, but got pinched during the front suspension lift somehow.  Added grease, and wiped down with denatured alchohol.  Shoe goo is a very strong contact cement, a couple layers sealed it up.  Added a small patch from a used bike tire, should be fine.  I have a spare axle assembly on hand, just in case.









I unbolted the half-shaft from the axle flange to get the boot into a better shape for the patch.  After that I kept going and took out the axle.  I've got a big leak near the rear main seal, maybe the oil pan or maybe the seal.  It drips right on the exhaust and send up clouds of smoke.  Time to fix that, I guess.

Getting the two top bolts on the axle was a puzzle.  I ended up with a bunch of extensions, sneaking down through the intake/exhaust manifolds for one of the bolts.  Crazy!



But in the end I got the axle out.



I'll drop the starter next, hopefully that will get enough clearance for the oil pan.  The manual sure makes this sound simple!

[eaglefreek]

If I were going to remove the oil pan, I would just pull the engine. It's not an easy job to remove the pan while in the car. And yes, those top two diff bolts are fun.

[amarshall]

If I were going to remove the oil pan, I would just pull the engine. It's not an easy job to remove the pan while in the car.

I don't have a hoist, or frankly the ambition to pull the engine.    If it comes to that I'll just trail smoke all the way across country, or find a shop that will do it for me.

So, is it possible to remove the oil pan from below?  I've got the starter out and also removed the flywheel cover, but there sure doesn't look like a lot of room.  Before I unbolt the pan I'd like to know that it won't be hopelessly blocked in there.

Time for more research!

[Prafeston]

None of the photos are showing

[amarshall]

Typical on the pics. Screw it, I'm switching to photobucket.

[vangremlin]

You can pull the oil pan without removing the engine.  However, you have to drop the front differential and steeringto make it happen.  I believe this method is described in the TSM, and I think they also suggest laying a piece of channel iron across the engine bay and strap the engine to it for additional support.   

[eaglefreek]

Typical on the pics. Screw it, I'm switching to photobucket.

When Photobucket first came out it was much more user friendly and reliable. If it weren't for the fact that I have tons of pictures already hosted there, I would consider a different hosting option.

[mo.eagles]

Mine was leaking trans oil and dripping onto the exhaust pipe . I was the guy rolling smoke out the back!!

[eaglefreek]

I talked to Paul aka Strike Eagle today and he changed an oil pump years ago without pulling the engine, so I asked him how. He said he disconnected the front and rear driveshafts. Removed the transmission crossmember, dropped the front axle, disconnected engine mounts, lifted the engine a little and let the transmission droop down. He said you need to have it on that angle to remove the pan.

[amarshall]

Alrighty.  Pics fixed above for hopefully the last time.  From now on I'm using photobucket, though I agree that it's king of cumbersome.

Thanks for the advice, especially vangremlin and eaglefreek.  I have the front axle and starter out, and I've read the procedures from the TSM, Clymer, and Chilton.  I had a little time yesterday, and I must have laid under that thing for half an hour trying to make a plan.  Yesterday I was feeling pretty lousy about it, that I was in over my head.  I REALLY don't want to drop the frame crossmember, just looks like a big job.

Luckily I haven't touched the oil pan bolts yet, so I can still put it back together.  I'm pretty sure the leak is the rear main.  The valve cover was leaking but that has been fixed.  I took off the plate that covers the flywheel, and most of the oil crud was on the outside of the cover.  Seems like the rear main is the most likely source, but I also read something about the trans output shaft seal so now I'm worried about that too.

The procedure eaglefreek mentioned seems possible to me, I would feel OK about taking out the trans crossmember and letting the trans and engine sag a bit.  But I wonder about the transfer case - that would have to sag also, correct? Or maybe just take it out, hmmm.

I've done a lot on this car, but maybe I need to find a shop to bail me out on a couple big items.  I'll keep you guys posted.  Thanks again for the support!