Eagle continues to die. Running out of ideas!

[westin]

I am not sure what you mean by the "IS-12e service letter"- if you mean the service chart for the rebuild kit I do still have it. I also have the AMC Service Manual. I never did drill out the tubes because the manual strongly suggested against it. I know alot of others have to their car I just didn't think I needed to  since it ran great in the past. I just ran fishing line in them and flossed them, sprayed carb cleaner inside, soaked them in berrymans, washed em out and sprayed compressed air through them. The eagle has been idling pretty rough (though it hasn't died). Tomorrow, I am going on the hunt for vacuum leaks and check the spark plug wires. I think the module definitely helped.. I think there is another underlying issue though. :/

[AMC of Houston]

The AMC IS-12e letter actually superseded the adjustment procedure in the factory service manuals.   

The AMC Service letter advising to drill out the idle bleed tubes was specifically for curing a rough idle & stalling condition in the BBD carbs.   I've done it on all of the 200+ BBDs' I've been through, and it does cure a multitude of BBD issues.    Look down the carb while at warm idle and see if you see any raw drops of fuel coming from the venturis.   If you see said drips, the idle bleeds may be the issue.

[westin]

I will check it today..  If they are dripping, would you recommend drilling it out with an .032 " bit? I don't have a dremmel.. could I use a screw driver? Seems a delicate procedure.. lol

[AMC of Houston]

Its just the bottom of the tubes you drill out (but I bet you knew that); and its kinda-sorta-delicate-ish.   Anything from .028 to .032 will do fine (I use an .030 bit in a pin vise I got at a hobby shop).

You want the IS-12e letter??

[amcfool1]

hi, amc of houston, I would like that IS-12 letter as welll, please email at [email protected], thanks, gz

[JayRamb]

How for down should you drill out the tubes?

[AMC of Houston]

You are drilling from the bottom up, and only drilling out the "pinched" area of the bottom of the tube.   So you are only drilling up about 3/32 of an inch or so; not far at all.

[westin]

It looked like it wasn't dripping but I might drill 'em out because I am desperate to find any way to make it run smoother. I am getting a tachometer, a fuel pressure gauge and some new spark plug wires and see if I can narrow down the cause a little more. I would like that PDF file on the service chart if you got it. My email is [email protected] Thanks 

[AMC of Houston]

File sent.  Good luck with it.

[macdude443]

Good call on the idle tubes.  I wouldn't use a dremel.  The tubes are soft and you can almost twist the bit in your fingers to cut through them.  Give them a shot of cleaner after drilling.

I hope that module change solved your issue.  I will stand behind my recommendation of the genuine Ford replacement.  They designed it and are still making a buck off selling their own, so why would they give the exact specs to aftermarket sellers?  The Ford module is actually heavier than the others, so there must be something different about it.  I think my Ford modules were about $47.  But after dealing with that faulty new module from Standard and nearly being killed on the highway and embarrassed in front of my passengers I figured the extra $10 was worth it  .

To add to the filter sock comment, I had the pickup become lodged with crap from the tank when I removed the filter sock once.  Car would go fine on the flat, but when I started to put a load on the motor (start going up a hill) it would begin to cut out like you were flipping a switch.  Sometimes it would keep going, sometimes it would stall and then start back up.  Typically with a bad module, it'll just quit and won't re-start until the module cools down.  It'll do that until it quits for good and never restarts.

The bum module I had ran great around town for a day, then as I was on the highway it would start to stumble and misfire out of no where.  I thought it was a fuel issue but when I swapped a spare module in it cured it instantly.

[carnuck]

The plug on the module connector gets corroded and causes issues too. If the ground from the body to the battery negative is missing then feedback goes through the module and it's internal ground wire in the harness to burn modules out. The "factory" (Dealer) test for module was to run it to operating temp then hang an incandescent trouble light on the module a couple minutes, pull it away and thump the module with a rubber mallet 3 times 5 seconds apart. Stall = faulty module.

[westin]

I got a bunch of tools for diagnosing and adjusting issues in the Eagle so hopefully I can make it run a little smoother. I am going to drill out the tubes, got some premium spark plug wires, a tachometer and hand vacuum pump for carb adjustments (to IS12e's specs) as well as a fuel pressure gauge. I went ahead and got these items to have on hand for future diagnosis. I was curious if anyone knew how to go about diagnosing the fuel pressure on the Eagle. I don't know why but I could not find ANYTHING on the fuel pump or fuel pressure in my service manual!? I don't know if I am looking in the wrong spot or what but there is very little mention of these components. Is there even A schrader valve on the fuel line in the AMCs ?What should the PSI be?

[macdude443]

There is no valve.  Fuel pressure is very low for the carb, maybe 3-5psi.  The 3-port fuel filter actually helps regulate the pressure by allowing excess fuel and any vapor to exit via the return line port, which needs to be rotated to the 12 o'clock position (it's on the end facing the carb).  Too much pressure can force fuel past the inlet valve and throw off the level in the bowl/spill over and out the sides of the carb.  It's kind of a self-regulating system.  Not too complex.

[macdude443]

The plug on the module connector gets corroded and causes issues too. If the ground from the body to the battery negative is missing then feedback goes through the module and it's internal ground wire in the harness to burn modules out. The "factory" (Dealer) test for module was to run it to operating temp then hang an incandescent trouble light on the module a couple minutes, pull it away and thump the module with a rubber mallet 3 times 5 seconds apart. Stall = faulty module.

This is a good point regarding the ground.  The black wire running from the module to the distributor pickup (it runs next to the orange and violet, twisted wires) is the module ground.  It makes this ground through the grundgy, dirty distributor base.  On my Eagles I tapped an extra ground lead into that wire.

[westin]

Thanks for the info. I will check the ground wire. Just got the tubes drilled out. It seems to be running better and better. It still hasn't died but is having  a real hard time starting.I try to turn it over and it makes a loud whirring sound and won't turn over takes about 5 times. I replaced the starter a few years back. I will check the wires to it and as well as put on the new plug wires and see if this does the trick!