Soft Clutch, Won't shift into gear, full resevoir

[carnuck]

The clutch master seals can bypass inside without leaking. If the clutch pedal isn't centered to the cylinder, it can "tilt" the clutch plunger so air comes in from the back. Happened 3 times with new clutch mastercylinders on my Comanche before I noticed the bend.

[Gil-SX4]

Before you think items bent or master bad, the connecting tube the soft one can look ok outside but make impossible the the fluid to reach the part needed front brake hoses and clutch systems all can fail this way, these eagles are very old the inside of the flex tubes were lined with a steel rib, once that rib inside the flex tub rots the tub becomes bloked by the rotted rib inside, take the fluid from the cluch tank bleed it almost dry, leave just about a 8th of a inch in the fluid bottle, now you will need two ppeople one to sit in your eagle drivers seat and you outside the eagle looking down the bottle, have your person sitting in the eagle depress clutch, you watch the 8th of inch fluid very carefull if the fluid drains out when cluch depressed now have the person slowly take foot off pedal, if fluid does not return to bottle your line inside has rotted and must be replaced as the first depress of clutch has presure on it but not enough your hose is restricking the fluid flow so everthing will look ok but the rotted line won't depress or unnpress the clutch change line clean bottle holding fluid reinstall repeat test if fluid comes back to your bottle, you will find your clutch fixed.

[RYNOEagle]

Thank you for your help everyone, Im still figuring things out, but I went out this morning to tackle the issue, and it went into every gear just fine. The reservoir is very dirty, so im thinking it is those rotted ribs clogging things up, but I'm still not certain

[RYNOEagle]

Here's what the deal was.

Took off the Slave Cyl and Master Cyl. Found that when I did the reservoir didnt empty itself. The rubber hose leading to the Master Cyl had rotted and the inner layer clogged the hose. Easy fix. I installed a brand new Master Cyl when I threw it all together and it didnt work properly, or so I thought.

The pedal was still very soft. I took the new master cyl out, put the old one back in and still nothing.


The problem ended up being because I couldnt bleed the thing properly. Despite trying over and over and over, it wouldnt bleed well enough to shift well.

I ended up bleeding as you would with brakes. Pump it up, hold it, open and close the bleeder, repeat. I did that until no more air came out, and it still wasnt good enough.

I then pulled the rod all the way into the Slave Cyl and openned the bleeder while the person in the car had the pedal UP.

Once I yelled that the bleeder was wide open, the person in the car slowly lowered the pedal.

Once the pedal hit the floor, I close the bleeder and allowed the rod to return all the way back to it's usual position as the pedal was slowly raised.

After the initial fluid loss, almost no fluid came out. But the pressure afterwards was good.

I'm going to try again tomorrow, seeing as I never actually saw fluid come out, and I was only holding back the rod with my hand. Ill try getting a ratchet strap on the fork and keeping it in place this weekend and seeing how that goes.

Hope this helps someone else.