1984 Eagle wagon

[rollguy]

That looks correct to me.  The other way around, the springs would touch the flywheel bolts.

[carnuck]

You did lube the pilot bushing, right? Clutch is right way around. Usually they stamp them.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

I applied a little motor oil on the pilot bushing prior to installation. If that's what you mean. 
I also gently lubed the input shaft splines, and a touch of grease on the pivot ball. My throw out bearing had a plastic (nylon) inner  liner so I didn't grease the input shaft. Hope that's right. If not I could pull it. The Transmission is IN though YA! Working by yourself is tough but it went smooth.

I didn't have the height to get the transmission on the transmission jack so I used my engine joist to raise the tranny through the shifter hole to get it on the jack. It worked slick.

If all is good I'm on to the np242 and rear crossmember modifications.

Did I forget to lube anything?

[carnuck]

A bit of grease would be better than motor oil, but at least is has some lube. On the old sinter bronze pilot bushings we had a small pot of 50W oil that we threw on the stove and dropped the bushing in on an old long stem valve from an old diesel so we could fish it out easily. Took it up to a low boil then pulled it out, dried off the outside and popped it in the crank.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Thanks once again carnuck. You have been great help though this.

I'm currently working on the rear crossmember modification, I would be happy to hear your opinion.
Ill post picture shortly.

Curious, I didn't put much oil on the pilot bushing. A light smear  of motor oil on the od of the end of the input shaft.
I thought the sintered bushings has a lubricant incorporated in them.

Think I should pull it back out and lubricate? Easier now than later.

For what it's worth I'll likly have the motor out next year to put in a 4.0

[carnuck]

It should last a year okay. The sintered bushing may have been pre-lubed (I hear that's the modern way) Just don't sit for long periods riding the clutch.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Well I'm thinking if there's a question I would be best pulling it now. Every thing is in place to just slide it back
And add alittle grease. How much were you suggesting?

[carnuck]

Grease would be about enough to cover your fingernail. Oil evaporates and goes dry with heat applied. It also spins into the clutch disc if you put more than a couple drops in. Maybe find out if the bushing you got is prelubed and save yourself the work?

[Seagulls n Eagle]

I'm thinking the bushing I put in was the pre lubed sintered bronze but because all it means is unbolting the transmission and sliding it out I think I'm going to do that and add a touch of grease.
It's not that much more work and it's not going to hurt anything. Better safe than sorry. So much easier to do it now.

I've been working on the rear crossmember modifications. Il post pictures shortly. I'm hoping its going to work out ok. I got some vibration isolation bushings from a company called TECH PRODUCTS in OH. I ordered 2 but need to get 2 more. It's tight but we'll see. I've really not had to change much on the crossmember itself so it will be interesting.

I'm also working on trying to figure out how to properly adjust the push rod for the Novak slave cylinder, the directions arnt as clear as I would have wanted. It seems like they made them for a very broad range of applications.
 
Ill be interested to hear what people think. I'm absolutly open to all comments, or criticism.

More comming

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Well I'm back, Ive needed to remind myself of my cars name, Joy. Hit yet another ruff patch. Work, sick Dad, crazy ex-wife, kids....I name the car joy because things can be hard but one cannot forget to find joy where you can.

Anyway Ive worked on her so ill try to catch up with some if it. Most importantly the ax-15 is installed as well as the associated rear crossmember modifications. I'm curious to hear any inputs or observations.

What I did was to mount a 3/16th plate using three bolts utilizing the existing mounting for the transmission mounts.

In to that I mounted 4 vibration isolation mounts from a company called Tech products. They are valued at 280 pounds apiece. I hade to use Allen head cap screw as to be able to access them to tighten them.





Installed view from back



From under





The mounts are 1/2" thick. Looks like I my have to space the crossmember down about  1/2 as to make room for the speedo cable. It's close though. I could actually mount the crossmember flush, it's close.

I didn't have to make any modifications to the color board.


The ax-15 has an NP 242 behind it
The front drive shaft went in with out a problem. The rear went in with about 1 1/2 inch play in the slip yoke.






It doesn't seem like a problem to leave as is. There is no risk of the drive shaft slipping out. Not even close.


Again, I would be happy to hear what anyone thinks.


Ill write more with the clutch pedal mods. Shortly

[Seagulls n Eagle]

I finally did it!!!! After quite a bit of difficulty I got the hydraulic clutch system in and working!! Wow what a pain.
I wouls like to so however Eric at Novak is quite a gentleman. He stands by his product 110%. I had some trouble with the install and he was extraordinarily helpful.

Anyway clutch in and working (check) transmission in (check) np242 (check) driveshafts (check) 8.25 rear (check)
Exhaust (check)

Next; install master cylinder, carborator, bleed brakes,

Wiring has me a little worries but.... One step at a time

[eaglefreek]

Great progress.

Is that a crack?

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Yup it's a crack, the bolt is also broken off in that hole as well. I actually don't have bolts in the rear mounting locations because I was going to have to make some holes in the crossmember that I thought would weaken it and I currently don't have a welder to strengthen it . So, the transmission is only bolted in the two forward locations but it's sitting on 4 isolation mounts. I figured it would have to do and the eagle auto transmission was only attached with two bolts. I don't plan on any serious off roading (maybe dirt roads and trails),
It's primarily a road machine.
In hindsight I would have stuck with the 727 and np229 but think I might like to build another one.

I also didn't go with the 4.0 head or full 4.0 swap (I have one to put in) because I thought I was already taking on too much. In hindsight it wouldn't have been that bad.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Well she ran!!!!!!!! Sounded smooth but didn't relax to an idle. I'm not worried about it because I haven't gotten there yet. I would like to get her up to temp a couple of times and retorque the intake and exhaust manifolds and all the other components that came off and went back on.

So I'm going to get a posting together on my auto to  manual swap ( if it's successful ) for anyone else Interested in doing the same. In the mean time here is my clutch pedel....





It's a spirit pedal, I used a 1/2 aluminum plate mounted in it,
With a shoulder screw through the plate and screwed into the pedal.
It should be well supported.

Funny I didn't do the 4.0 or 4.0 head because I thought I was taking in enough mods as it was with the ax-15 but turns out it would have been easier with the exhaust. I'm a little concerned about  the exhaust pipe contacting the bell housing.....



Does any one have any thoughts about how bad this might be?

The rest of the system went in rather smoothly.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Well, I got the old girl running!!! What a joy!
Except for it sounding like....well like the starter gear staying out too long
She purrrrrred like a kitten.

I tested the starter so I don't know what's up. Not sure if it has something to do with it having two solenoids
Or what.

Been working on the 4x4 shifter and the brakes and I can take her off the ramps and jack stands.
It's getting closer to a test run.

I've taken so many things apart and put them back together it's going to be interesting.
I'll get to test the used;

Front 3.55 diff
Rear 8.25 diff
Ax-15
Np242

Get to test the
Rear crossmember modifications
Clutch pedal install and mods

I hope after all the time and work I don't have problems

Being that it was so disassembled and re assembled I'm going to have to retorque everything!



Then into wiring, currently the dash lights don't work, the dash looks like it puked wires
Non of the pod gauges are hooked up.

The tac isn't installed.

If I could get a couple of days I could get alot done. Mmmm... Where to get a couple of days without something to do...? Ill have to continue to pick away at it.

I haven't even begun to thinking about door handles, paint and other cosmetic work.

Slow and steady wins the race I guess