AW-4 install

[Nightpath]

So it would make more sense to swap to the NP242 over the NP231 since the stock Eagle parts I have that are needed would match up for a correct installation.I already have a swap lined up lol.

So when I do the install of the new engine, transmission and transfer case what should I be aware of? The front driveshaft has to be lengthened (or "shimmed" to keep it from compacting and sliding out) with either NP242/231 correct? The transmission mount has to be slid back and lowered a snort, but the rear driveshaft should be good as is.

I have front and rear SX4 driveshafts (rear driveshaft is from a standard). Would the rear driveshaft (has a slip joint) be able to be used in place of the front driveshaft on the Eagle? If memory serves me right, when I compared the driveshafts I have sitting at home it came out a few inches longer and the ujoints looked the same.

[eaglefreek]

The Eagle front driveshaft is a much smaller diameter than the rear. There isn't much room there especially with the 4.0L exhaust. Honestly, your just going to have to do it and figure it out as you go. Once you get everything into place, you'll see what needs to be done. This won't be a weekend project unless you have mad fab skills.

[Nightpath]

I don't have mad fab skills but the guy helping me does. Mad, deliciously succulent fab skills. The guy can take a pop can and make it into a friggen snow plow with a disco ball.

I just keep getting anxious for the swap, trying to iron out any potential bugs. It's why I have 80 different posts here on different things lol. 

[Baskinator]

I have a whole recycle bin full of pop cans, can he make me another Eagle? 

[captspillane]

The front driveshaft has to be lengthened (or "shimmed" to keep it from compacting and sliding out) with either NP242/231 correct?

Would the rear driveshaft (has a slip joint) be able to be used in place of the front driveshaft on the Eagle? If memory serves me right, when I compared the driveshafts I have sitting at home it came out a few inches longer and the ujoints looked the same.

The rear driveshaft is considerably longer and a much thicker diameter.

The front driveshaft does not have to worry about compacting and sliding out. That is only for the rear driveshaft because two slip joints add up and slide out the back of the transfer case. In the front you have a yoke on either side, not a slip joint.

If you just swapped the stock NP129 for a NP242 you would use the Eagle front yoke and not need any other changes up front. In the rear you would need a 3" spacer. Since you are doing an AW4 swap at the same time the transmission will be 3" longer. Hopefully that eliminates the need for a spacer in the back. I'll be able to tell you for sure in about a week since this is how I'm currently doing my AW4 install. In the front you have an inch or two of adjustment in the slip yoke but it is probably not enough to make up for the longer transmission. I plan on using an XJ front yoke which is an additional inch or two longer than the Eagle one. The added length of those two together should make the front driveshaft work as is. The XJ front yoke has different Ubolts that may provide complication. I think they are meant to go through unthreaded holes and have nuts instead of bolts that thread in.

[Nightpath]

A Chrysler 8.25 would eliminate any need for a spacer in the rear as well due to it being longer than the stock axle or D35.

I lucked out on my XJ, it has SYE

[carnuck]

The XJ front shaft is double cardan and has bolts that come from the tcase side that go into the toke of the double cardan (I can add a pic since my MJ's front shaft is off right now due to the trans change and upcoming front axle swap to 4.10s)