On Eagles Wings

[carnuck]

Posi-lok Cable or hook the dash switch to only the front axle.

[huggyb1972]

Well the good news we are still mobile. The old bird developed a steering problem this week. After inspecting it a little further I realized the Idler arm was really bad. took it for a little ride afterwards and still had a little bind when turning right. I didn't see the left upper a arm mount deterioration.
 
 

the lower section of the frame rail was still intact pretty well so I used a piece of 12ga. steel that was 2"x5"x17 to form the bottom and inside portion of the frame rail and then coped it to fit up to the shock tower a arm mount.


next I married a 2" section of flat to form the top this piece runs back to good metal also.

[eaglefreek]

Wow, that's pretty bad. That would send most Eagles to the junkyard. Glad to see you fixing it. As far as the front axle goes, you can just permanently lock the front axle with a hose clamp. You'll have to do a search for the mod.

[huggyb1972]

10hrs to refit it and drove the old girl out of the driveway that night. I accidentally cut thru the fuel return line. I patched that line and in turn by moving it knocked some rust loose further down and now that line leaks in a new spot.  so now that line and vapor vent will get redone.

This is the other job I have been doing for our youngest daughter and primarily what I been focusing on for this week.

Everything is a mess right now but the chassis for her Full size Bronco is ready for it's power team.
 

[huggyb1972]

Pulled the trigger today on switching out the 129 for a 242.  I let the plug out and a large blob fell out then came red trans fluid and then this white looking stuff.  I imagine it's the stuff out of the viscous coupling.



The snout on the 129 is longer by about 3/4" than the 242 I choose, so I was faced with a dilemma. I could try and seal up the trans and the case, I could wait for the correct case, or I could lop the end of the old case off and seal it to the shaft and make it semi close to the way it should be.  I chose the 3rd.





I had an assistant run the drill and spin the input shaft while I used a cut off wheel to loop off about 5/8ths" of this piece and made my little spacer seal thing.  The case is in and the drive shafts are connected so tomorrow I will be making the shift linkage work.

[JayRamb]

Pulled the trigger today on switching out the 129 for a 242.  I let the plug out and a large blob fell out then came red trans fluid and then this white looking stuff.  I imagine it's the stuff out of the viscous coupling.



The snout on the 129 is longer by about 3/4" than the 242 I choose, so I was faced with a dilemma. I could try and seal up the trans and the case, I could wait for the correct case, or I could lop the end of the old case off and seal it to the shaft and make it semi close to the way it should be.  I chose the 3rd.





I had an assistant run the drill and spin the input shaft while I used a cut off wheel to loop off about 5/8ths" of this piece and made my little spacer seal thing.  The case is in and the drive shafts are connected so tomorrow I will be making the shift linkage work.

Why are you changing the 129 out? Did yours have shift on the fly?

[huggyb1972]

The transfer case was toast even in 4wd  mode it barely would move itself.  I don't think our was shift on the fly in order to engage 4wd you are supposed to stop, pull the pin, flip the lever.  I tried it, but I think the goo that makes it work came out.

I managed to get the Cherokee shift mechanism installed today and it all works well once I figure out the permanent solution to engaging the front axle and doing the finish work for the interior. 




I was going to need new carpet sooner or later I guess I just moved out up to sooner

[huggyb1972]

I don't know what the big debate was over the speedo cable not fitting without a 90deg.  adapter for it.  My speedo cable went right in no problem at all. 


 
I reused the linkage from the zj with a minor length change in the lower linkage.



I would've loved to power wash everything, but my time was tight and I really need the old bird on the road for next week.

[carnuck]

The speedo cable deal is with NP229 being right under that floor brace.

[huggyb1972]

Harry the Eagle made it out of the driveway today. 
And I flexed him out a little




No leaks, Squeaks, Clanking, Thumps, or Vibration. I played around a little with it afterwards all the systems function normal I am using the 2wd/4wd mode selector to engage the front axle. I had to remove all the extra lines for the t case actuator except the geen line I shortened it and conected it to the top of the actuator. It engages and disengages smoothly.

[huggyb1972]

The Eagle saga continues,

                     This week I found my self under the bird once more. Weeks ago when I had to make emergency repair to the left upper a arm mount I accidentally clipped the fuel return line with the sawsall. I thought I'd be reall slick and splice line with a piece of rubber 1/4" fuel line and we'd be good. ...... wrong. As luck would have it by moving the line the small amount I did I knocked the little piece of rust loose that was coving to hidden potential hole in the line further down. The return line on these cars is important with it blocked off the car will not start hot worth a darn.  I imagine it relieves the pressure created in the fuel supply line and keeps from puddling fuel in the intake.

         The fuel lines might as well get updated with the times.  I called my local parker dealer and aquired some 1/4" and 5/ 16" black poly line and ran all the new line in plastic.  We'll see what the long term affects are but I think it will work pretty well. The supply and return are routed next to each other now making it easier to protect them.



I would like to have gotten some picks of the poly line but dark had set in and I had to get going.  I had planned on coating the underside of the car this fall but time has gotten away from me once more.  I may try and get a garage space open and drive it in and do that job.








   

[huggyb1972]

Last week was the first time since owning the eagle that it didn't want to run. Temperatures got down to below 0 and idling became a issue all of the sudden. I finally got well enough to go work on the car Thursday and I opened the idle jets up about another 1 1/4 turn and bumped up the idle stop screw.

I am having trouble with the alternator not throwing charge until the engine revs up briefly once and then it will charge great. The alternator is newly rebuilt, but before replacing it and since the charge indicator light has been on. The voltmeter I installed shows I am getting good charge after the engine speed increases just one time. I'm going to need to revisit the wiring up front after the computer removal perhaps I removed something in the act and did realize.it until just recently. 

I did score a very nice hood center strip with a hood ornament that is nearly perfect condition.

[IowaEagle]

Check the belt tension.  The pullies could be glazed.  With the cold temps the belt could have expanded a bit.  The A/C equipped cars are a bit harder to get the belt tension right.

[huggyb1972]

It was doing this right after I put the remanned alternator in and the same day I also installed all new belts. I think I have a little wiring issue. If it wasn't so foolishly cold working on it wouldn't be such a pain I have grown fairly fond of the bird. I understand what you mean about belt tension it makes me so glad all my other vehicles have automatically tensioning serpentine belt systems.

[huggyb1972]

Found the problem. This 7.5amp fuse popped. I put a new one in the light went away and the voltmeter goes right to full output.


The belt was already getting loose so I have them a little tweak.

Now I'm off to get a fuel pump since I noticed this one just beginning to spit just a little mist of fuel.