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My 81 SX/4 Project with 4.0 Swap

Started by idahosx4, February 19, 2014, 12:41:54 AM

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0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Brentmo

Quote from: idahosx4 on March 02, 2014, 07:37:29 PM
I'm conflicted about the seats. They are near mint condition, and I love them, but their are horribly uncomfortable and the foam has gone very soft. I'd love to have some real expensive bucket seats. 

I've seen an SX4 advertised in Colorado with Corbeau seats installed.  My interior is black, too, and my seats are in poor condition, upholstery, foam, springs, and hinges.  If you decide to sell, please let me know. 
Take my advice, I'm not using it...

08 JK Unlimited - daily driver
98 K1500 HT383 stroker - pulling, camping, road trips
83 SX4 Sport - resto project underway

Baskinator

I saw that Eagle, the seats look awesome and I'd love to put them in my SX/4. They might need new mounts fabbed so there's room for your legs to fit under the steering wheel.

http://www.corbeau.com/products/reclining_seats/baja_xrs/
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (Work In Progress)

Photobucket Album: http://s1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/

DownwardFlame

-1970 Mustang Coupe
-1982 F-150 Stepside
-1980 Eagle Wagon
-1981 Sx4

idahosx4

Well, I am neck deep in pulling the engine. This is a first for me so it's been a little messy. I've got all the accessories and head pulled out. Surprisingly, pistons and what I can see of the bores look clean. Head looks very clean too. I've got all the transmission bolts out, and most of the motor mount bolts out (the ones that go from the bracket directly into the block).

Does anyone know if there's a right way to pull this engine? The oil pan is pretty close to the front axle, and it doesn't look like I can pull the engine straight off the transmission very far before I'd have to go up (maybe 1" at most). Should I unbolt the front axle from the bracket and let the center diff hang a little lower first? Or maybe take the oil pan off? Also, I presume I need to support the transmission with a jack or some wood supports before pulling the block out? The transmission mount is pretty far back so I presume it won't just hang cantilevered off the mount very well.

Brentmo: If I do ever sell the seats I'll be sure to let you know first. :) Might be a while before I decide though. Engine bay restoration is stage 1.

idahosx4

Hmm, maybe I should have read the factory service manual first ... It does indeed say to remove front axle before pulling the engine. Men don't need instructions! lol

Amc1320

Idaho,

I did not pull the front axle or take it loose, it will come out just fine, however you will need to support it once you take that mount off the axle will fall down by itself


Get it supported and take the mounts off, it only needs to slide forward a little to pop off the transmission once you get all those bolts off, some,of them are a pita , also take the bolts off the tourque converter

Make sure you support the trannny btw, forgot to once.....
Rob c
84 Eagle Limited Wagon (driven everyday)
81 Eagle Kammback
81 Spirit (undergoing surgery)
83 Spirit (parts car giving it all to keep the rest going)
Manchester, TN

vangremlin

Quote from: Amc1320 on March 09, 2014, 09:04:28 PM
Idaho,

I did not pull the front axle or take it loose, it will come out just fine, however you will need to support it once you take that mount off the axle will fall down by itself


Get it supported and take the mounts off, it only needs to slide forward a little to pop off the transmission once you get all those bolts off, some,of them are a pita , also take the bolts off the tourque converter

Make sure you support the trannny btw, forgot to once.....

What he said.  Disconnect the front axle from the engine and support the axle.  Disconnect the transmission and support it.  Those upper bolts are a pain, use a couple 12" extensions and an elbow, you should be good to go.  I'm sure you've already pulled the radiator, etc.
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

mudkicker715

as long as everything is out from the front of the motor you can remove the trans with the motor. water pump can stay but the fan and other accesories should come off the motor as well. transfer case needs to come off the trans.

i find this route easier but my equipment is probably different than yours.



Manitowoc WI

doneagle



        HI ......After all the changing and you get to the body .....Are you going to stay with the silver paint that looks so good on that car .....and the interior looks great it would be nice to have it redone in the same material ....
       My personal opinion you have a very nice car to work with ......good luck.......don
HI.....A BAD DAY WITH YOUR EAGLE IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK ...A GOOD DAY WITH YOUR EAGLE IS PRICELESS

There are Eagles lovers and there are the uneducated and the best we can do
with them is try to EDUCATED them on the virtues of the BEUTEFULL cars that we drive   ...................don

idahosx4

Was able to spend another couple hours on it tonight. Got all of the engine mounts and axle brackets removed, and it's hanging from a hoist.  Starter motor is also off, and the lower bell housing cover, so I can see the fly wheel. axle is resting on jack stands. I have a manual transmission though, so I know I've got to pull the engine off the transmission spline. Doesn't seem to want to budge off the transmission right now. Do you have to pry it off?

Also, anyone interested in purchasing a motorcraft 2100 with adapter from Gronk at discounted price? Would need new gaskets of course.

Don: I do like the stock paint job quite a bit. I am leaning heavily towards restoring the paint to that color. Interior will definitely stay the same. I might have custom seats done in the same style. Or the current ones redone with better support.

Prafeston

I might be interested in the discounted MC let me know what you are wanting for it.
1983 AMC Eagle SX/4 - Penny

idahosx4

Well after several weekends of traveling and not having time to be in the shop, i'm back to the grindstone.  Once I get the front axle out I will be doing rust repair on the battery tray area and driver side floorboard.

Can anyone confirm the right way to disconnect the driveline from the front differential at the u-joint? The FSM isn't very specific. It looks like you just remove the four star-shaped bolts? What is the right socket for those? A 12-point 5/16 was too big and a 12-point 1/4 was way too small. Do I need to get a set of those inverted star sockets? Does a 9/32 socket exist?



Here is an album of the rusted out areas. My plan is to acquire the right sheet metal sections from a parts car (SX/4 or spirit), do the necessary prep work, and then pay a fabricator to cut and weld, as I do not have the expertise.

http://imgur.com/a/TYWxE

There is also the passenger side rain drip rail but I'm not sure what to do about that yet.



vangremlin

Hmmmm....I thought for sure the 1/4" 12 point was the correct size...I've taken that apart a couple times, and I know for sure I didn't use a 9/32
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

mudkicker715




Manitowoc WI

Mernsy

I used 1/4" 12 point. (the boxed end of a combination wrench), on my '81 SX./4 but yours do look bigger. Shouldn't be metric.

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