Tips for protecting engine during slow rebuild?

[priya]

Doesn't sound promising.  Once you've verified that the starter isn't holding it up if it still doesn't turn try setting the motor upright and putting ATF in the spark plug holes, let it sit for a week or so and try it again.

[blk-majik]

Yea, no dice with both belts removed. The starter is below and behind the oil filter, right? Just un-bolt it?

[priya]

Yea, no dice with both belts removed. The starter is below and behind the oil filter, right? Just un-bolt it?

Right, just unbolt it.

[jim]

Unbolt the starter and the wires.  2 bolts plus the wires?
Haven't looked in a very long time.
The starter is somewhat heavy if you are lying on your back underneath.  Work it out carefully
and try not to it drop on any valuable body parts (human).

[blk-majik]

Lol thanks for the tip, Jim! I just got it out, and without that warning, I'd likely be wearing a nice shiner to work tomorrow.

drum roll please....... it still wont turn.

I dont have a funnel long enough to get ATF into the spark plug holes safely.
I started the tear down with the intent to swap in a 4.0 head. Is there any reason not to just take the head off at this point? I can't imagine that making it any more difficult to un-stick the engine. Only risk I see is that exposing the internals more might bind things up even more. Worst case, I might just swap a full 4.0 engine in instead of just the head....

I guess this is worth mentioning too: The car is currently in my garage, where it has been for the past year and change. However, this weekend it's getting towed to a buddy's house for some short-term (a couple months, maybe) storage in the woods behind his house. We'll cover it, but yea... ain't no garage. Reason being, we need to do a head swap and some other minor engine work to a miata 1.8L motor that's in a suzuki x90. long story. either way, that might be reason enough to leave the head on.

[carnuck]

Did you try to spin the motor with the starter before pulling it?

[blk-majik]

As in by turning the key, or directly powering the starter solenoid? Yes. Didn't do anything... no sound at all.

[priya]

There is no harm in removing the head now if you want.  It'll give you a better view of the cylinders and a chance to see what's sticking the motor and how much corrosion is in the cylinders which is the likely cause of the motor not turning.

[blk-majik]

For the hurrah before I start pulling more stuff apart, I picked up a few bottles of Marvel Mystery Oil and injected some into each of the sparkplug holes... except the one that's blocked by the AC compressor. I just injected that into the exhaust and intake ports instead.

I'll let it sit for a while and give it another shot.

While I have the starter out, can anyone recommend a procedure to test it? I'd assume just feeding it 12v and seeing if it spins is about all it should take. Is there any more to it than that?

By the way, I stumbled upon this wiki. It rocks! not just this one article, but their entire site. Great resource, I wish i found this years ago.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Freeing_a_stuck_engine

[priya]

While I have the starter out, can anyone recommend a procedure to test it? I'd assume just feeding it 12v and seeing if it spins is about all it should take. Is there any more to it than that?

That's it. Negative to the body of the starter, positive to the starter cable post.

[blk-majik]

Welp... I just realized the transmission is also bone dry. It's an automatic. My buddy who had the car for a few months before me changed the fluid and gasket, but didn't seal the pan properly... apparantly all the fluid drained out and he forgot to mention it until I called him today.

Would it be possible that the problem might be with the transmission, and not the engine? Ie, if the trans gears are frozen, would the engine turn? It's currently in park. My better judgement suggests that this is unrelated, but I'm obviously clueless Grasping for straws here

[priya]

Not sure myself, but I think because the torque converter links the trans to the motor via a liquid connection rather than a solid mechanical link the motor should turn even if the transmission is seized.

On second thought perhaps its possible for the torque converter to seize up and not allow each side to move independently.  Hopefully someone more knowlegeable than me will chime in, lol.

[carnuck]

You need to undo the torque converter bolts, which you can't because the motor won't turn. Catch 22!

[blk-majik]

Anyone ever use one of these on a 258? http://www.jegs.com/p/Proform/Proform-Crank-Rotator/748260/10002/-1

I'm worried about stripping the crank pulley bolt, but not sure if it'll fit.

[carnuck]

I've made them before. Just make a plate to fit the 3 bolts for the pulley and weld a socket in the middle.