My 1982 2.5l Iron Duke Rebuild

[Monkeyjoe]

So to get the cam out, you basically have to pull this whole half of the motor apart.  Carburetor, Intake Manifold, Coil and bracket, valve cover, rockers, pushrods, inspection cover, lifters, fuel pump, oil pump drive shaft.

Pulled Carb 1st,


then the Intake,  This was a tricky bolt to get out.


 have to remove the spacer from the manifold to gain access to the 2 middle bolts.
 

the coil and Bracket. 


Still not deep enough into the engine, just scratching the surface

[Monkeyjoe]

I found some vacuum lines that were dry rotted.  When I put the motor back in, I replaced every single vacuum hose, fuel line, heater hose, washer fluid hoses.

[Monkeyjoe]

Moving forward, 

distributor, and its position


TDC, a general idea of where the rotor needs to be when I get things put back together and it is time to re-stab the distributor


this is what an oil change every 3000-3500 miles will give you inside your engine.  This is truly how it looked when I removed it.


I have to remove the rockers and pushrods.


Keep everything in order, for re-assembly


Remove the inspection cover to pull the lifters out.

[Monkeyjoe]

Now the Fuel pump, and Oil pump drive shaft.

This fuel pump is tough to get out even with this much access.  It is placed inside crook of the Engine mount bracket.  I have an electric pump that will replace this mechanical pump.  What sucks is, I had to reinstall the mechanical pump until I return from my deployment.  didn't want my wife to have any issues with it while I was gone.

so below the pump you can see were the pump was mounted.  (Also just a little trick.  you will notice that 3 of the lifters are still in their guides.  They had a little bit of oil residue gunk that was keeping them from lifting out all the way.  A few drops of "Power Source" Diesel fuel additive on each one and they will lift out after about 10 minutes.) 




This is where you will find the Oil pump drive shaft



Remove the cover plate, then the bearing cap




then the shaft will slip right out.

[Monkeyjoe]

Now you should have everything that is in contact with the Cam out of the way. 

Line up the 2 holes in the cam gear with the 2 retainer bolts behind the cam gear.  They are a 10mm bolt.

[Monkeyjoe]

Here is where the job went from bad to worse.  Up to this point I was replacing a Timing gear set.  I found that all of the cam bearings were pitted and the lifters were pitted.  The Car only had 69,000 miles on it when I got it.  It had sat for a very long time.  the only thing I could think of was, the oil was squeezed out from between the parts causing the different types of metal to come into contact, and this can cause electrolysis.  this can cause pitting.

Front Cam Bearing,  they were all like this.



Pitted lifters




Damaged Fuel pump lobe on the cam shaft.

[Monkeyjoe]

Now I know the only thing to do is pull the motor. 

the bell housing guide pins were corroded.  I used an air hammer and a couple of ratchet straps to separate the parts.  then when I put it all back together, I cleaned the guide holes and pins and put anti-seize on the pins.  I don't have pictures of me pulling the engine, but I was very carful to keep all the bolts and brackets together, and noted where they go.  after getting the engine out, mounted it into my engine stand and began pulling the oil pan and rod and crank caps.

The cam gear failure was a blessing in disguise, The car ran like a top.  No weird noises, I got 30-34mpg, I drove 600 miles round trip every week for over a year, never had a problem. 

All of the bottom halves of all of the bearings were pitted.  The number 4 piston had broken rings.  So a complete rebuild was in order.  As explained in the beginning of this thread, I took it to a machine shop, ended up having to take it to a second one to get the rest of the block and head milled.  I had the Block Zero decked, as you can see in the following picture (If you don't know, this is where you mock up the crank and pistons, and bring the piston to TDC, then a measurement is take from the top of piston to the top of the block and that much material is shaved off the top of the block, so now the piston and block are flush,(Higher compression)).

I went ahead and mocked up the block using a dishtop piston, while I was waiting for my flat top pistons to come in.   I finished the rebuild with a flat top piston.



The machine shop did a great shop on my parts.  Here is the re-worked head.

[Monkeyjoe]

All said and done,  I like the "sleeper" idea so I painted the engine the original color.  So from the outside nothing special.  On the inside, bored over .030, flat top pistons, shaved and reworked head, Zero decked block, Mild performance cam custom cut from CompCams.  High volume heavy duty oil pump. 

[Monkeyjoe]

I have to admit, I did have a little help getting things back together. 

I will emphasize "Little", My son, who knows, he may inherit "Little Beast"





 

[IowaEagle]

Nice, nice and nice.

[Monkeyjoe]

Thanks, It enjoy these kind of projects.

Here is my 1967 International Scout 800.  I will only bore you with a couple of pics.



All original 152 ci International, except the single wire Alternator, to get rid of the generator and external voltage regulator.


I have gone thru every inch of this truck. 


When I was a child about 10 thru 14 years old 1979-1983, this truck sat in my neighbors chicken coop.  We moved and in 2005 I returned to visit the neighbor and the scout was still in the chicken coop with about 2-3 inchs chicken crap covering every inch.  He sold it to me for $600 no rust. and I spent about 20-30 minutes under the hood, hooked a fuel line to a gas can and started the truck and drove it up onto the trailer under its own power. 

[captspillane]

With all that work to the block and head that engine deserves a Mercruiser Super Duty crank. Here's a side by side comparison of the regular 82 HP Iron Duke crank versus the 140 HP Super Duty Crank.

[Prafeston]

Good work Monkey!

[Monkeyjoe]

Well the little beast is going to get a paint job soon.  I will be striping her all the way down do a bare shell.  When I have the motor out again for that, I think I will see if I can get my hands on one of those Super Duty Cranks.  And the information I have been finding here since I did this rebuild has made me want to do a little more to this little engine. 

I had a conversation with you Capt about the fuel injection setup.  That would be interesting, I am also going to see about headers for this engine.  I already have larger exhaust to make it breath better but still have the stock exhaust manifold.  I just ran out of time and had to get the engine back into the car before my deployment. 

[Prafeston]

P.S. That Scout is nice!!