Intro and basic Eagle Q's

[Whuntmore]

There is one for sale locally for $400, that is a project, but has a near perfect body and paint, with new winter tires to-boot!

And it's not in your driveway yet because... ?

Seriously, $400 for what I assume is a complete car, with a good body and paint, is a screaming buy.  Even if there were no drivetrain in it at all, it would be a deal.

That's one of those "buy first, think later" kind of situations.

I also want sidetrack again, and say I've watched several of your group's videos.  Awesome stuff. 

Actually, I have to agree with El Matador on this one totally.  That is a good deal.  There are lots of eagles out there with ok bodies or worse, with rot in the usual places, and I gotta say that is a great starting point.  It'd be no problems getting a drive train for that.  

[BaldEagle]

Great info...........thanks guys! So even if I was to lift an Eagle, the tire size wouldn't have to go much bigger than a couple of sizes. That shouldn't affect the gearing too much. Yes, the one I'm looking at buying is covered in snow right now, but all sides are exposed and dent free! I'll have to get pics of it here soon. The club I was with was Northwest Washington Off-road Group, when I was living up north. All Soobies, with the occasional Jeep thrown in. Walker valley ORV park was our main place to go off-roading, with very tight trails that would allow for no bigger than a Cherokee to pass. Would be perfect for an Eagle............if you didn't mind mandatory body damage!!! One last question, then I must go to work for now: Do the Eagles have a high-low, dual range transfer case? Look forward to continuing this discussion tonight.   

[Whuntmore]

No hi-lo transfer case range.  but there are many to choose from - Some are direct bolt in (IIRC)

Tire size depends on the lift - without any major suspension modding, you can gently lift the eagle 2.5 inches without having to alter much - I think like some spacers to the front shock (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) and maybe some shackles or a better arch to the rear.  I believe that's pretty much it, and then you can run 235's (or even 245's) on the eagle with very few issues.

Otherwise tire size is just a question of lift - How high do you want to go, and how big of a tire do you want to run.

[JustinS]

My tires on my car are 205/70/15. But I think you can run at least a 215/75/15 without any problems. I know Captnspillane has a write up of how to fit a 225/75/15 tire without a lift. Just requires a bit of trimming to the wheel well area.

I think I've seen that, and I don't think I'd want to do that kind of modding.  But I did take the fender flares off my eagle, and I think I can get 225 under her right now, without too much rub.  It will rub a tiny bit in full turn, but not as much as you would think.

captspillane had a writeup on this in how-to:

http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=37570.0

[BaldEagle]

Bolt-in is very nice! Options are so very limited for customizing Subarus. You're right about this being a screaming eagle........I mean deal too! Fortunately, there's no danger of it selling out from under me. I just need to let him know to keep from scrapping it. 

[Whuntmore]

There are actually tons of mods you can do to Eagles:

dump in a 4.0 HO from a jeep,
change out motor mounts and dump in a V8 (I think the V8 will almost drop in - Possibly some small modding)
Do a stroker motor,

mild lifts and keep front half-shaft
extreme lifts and dump in a jeep full front axle,

Depending on lift, tires sizes galore to choose from,

a few choices in upgraded rear axles (from an explorer to some Chrysler/jeep rear ends,

several T-cases to choose from (some bolt in, some spline mods)

Some direct tranny upgrades (727, or some jeep bolt in's)

I guess it's like that old saying:  Speed is just a question of money... How fast do you want to go?

[BaldEagle]

Found out some more about the car today.........
Not only is the body in great shape, but it runs and drives too! '84 4-door wagon, with over $1500 put into it just last year for brakes, tires, and complete exhaust. There is some kind of issue with the oil pressure. Leak, bad pump, dunno yet, but regardless it would be well worth the money even if needing a new engine. It will be mine, then I'll take pics in my own driveway. 

[Prafeston]

Sounds like a great deal for 400 bucks!

[Whuntmore]

Oh Heck yeah... If it's rust free, and it actually runs.  Man!  You'd be crazy not to get it.

How's the interior?

It would be really funny if it was just one of those plastic valve issues.  Easy fix.

[BaldEagle]

I didn't get a great look at the interior, but from what I could see it looked fine. I'm not so sure about being rust free, either............the body's good on the outside, but I've yet to crawl under it. Any problem areas that I should check. I really don't foresee anything that's going to prevent me from spending a mere 4 bills on it, though.

[Whuntmore]

I didn't get a great look at the interior, but from what I could see it looked fine. I'm not so sure about being rust free, either............the body's good on the outside, but I've yet to crawl under it. Any problem areas that I should check. I really don't foresee anything that's going to prevent me from spending a mere 4 bills on it, though.

Just like Casper says, Check the rocker panels really good (inside and outside rockers), both ends of the rocker panels (where it starts and ends at both wheel wells), check the boxes that the leaf springs go into, Driver's side floor pan, dog-legs of the frame where it comes from the front, to where it ducks under the body, and pretty much general areas underside.

If there's no rot in any of those areas, and it doesn't look like it was in a collision that was repaired, then I would seriously get it.  

[BaldEagle]

Great descriptions, guys. I'll have to look for rust and probably pick it up this weekend. It's only 1/4 mile from home, so I'll have to take it out further for a decent test drive............man, what a sweet deal!!!

[BaldEagle]

good luck on the score. being your on the west of the cascades tho, im thinking it will have SOME rust. hopefully nothing that kills it. out here on the east side of the cascades, its DRY!!! things dont usually rust here. cars that have been here there entire life, are pretty pristine metal wise. as for interiors... thats another story. no rust, also no interior. lol. i guess it goes one way or the other some times. 

That's okay, I'm used to dealing with SOME rust. At least were not back east with whatever $hit they use on the roads; I'd take a shot interior over car cancer any day! The PO was supposed to have called last night with more info on the mechanical prob, and I'm working today so hopefully the deal will go down Sunday.   

[BaldEagle]

Checked out the car a little more thoroughly today, and it looks pretty good. No major rust in the usual areas! Just a little surface rust in a couple spots at the most. So that, of course, means the interior is shot. 
The headliner sags bad, torn up front seats, torn carpet, and a few missing knobs. Oh well..............what can you expect for $400!?! The PO needs to find the key, so I haven't heard it run yet, and the hood release isn't working. After searching, I'll try the two person trick to get it open tomorrow. Crappy cell phone pics to upload too!

[BaldEagle]

I'd like to take her to East OR..........once running. The car's in my driveway now, and the intermittent starting issue looks to be an easy fix! It turns over, but solenoid clicks, so it's that or the starter. Here's some pics as promised.