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bad vibration

Started by pigonawing, December 06, 2011, 04:10:17 PM

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Pat

In the for what it's worth dept., I had a bad vibration in Old Rusty, turned out to be a plug wire that had came off. Mainly noticed on acceleration, worse with moderate to heavy acceleration. Just throwing a guess out.
1995 Jeep Cherokee "Bleep"



No pic here - BlackBird - My '86 AMC Eagle wagon

R.I.P Old Rusty - My '91 F150

BenM

I was looking through the manual again, maybe transfer case output, like others have said, or inside the rear axle. Have you changed the gear oil in the rear axle?

My only other thought is pinion angle. The engine and the rear axle aren't shifted, or have bad mounts? And there are no blocks on the rear springs to affect pinion angle?
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

pigonawing

i've added air shocks to lift it but it did not vibrate before this last tranny repair

BenM

Just adding air shocks shouldn't affect it. I mentioned blocks because they are sometimes angled and that affects things much more.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

shanebo

#19
Hey Pigonawing,

I just bought an 81 sx4 4 spd and it does the exact same thing but at around 70-75....all I can compare it to is like driving over those rumble strips but x3...the dash shakes pretty bad and its pretty loud....Its wierd cuz it drives perfect at 65 and under. Ill be following this thread real close now in hope both of us can get some resolve.
AMC, serving up heaping helpings of AWESOME since 1954

carnuck

Sometimes you lift these (or any) rigs and the ujoint goes out of it's spot where it's worn in and causes vibes. I'd recheck the U-joint bolts and if it didn't vibe before the trans change, make sure everything else is tight too. If you have taken apart the rear driveshaft, it may have been reassembled wrong.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

captspillane

Eagles are prone to a harmonic vibration that is worse at several specific speeds, then decreases as you go faster or slower. If your Eagle can drive completely vibration free before and after the shaking occurs, its likely that issue. The other common causes of vibration are present at all speeds.

Replace your steering stabilizer first. That's the shock looking thing in the front of the car. Its cheap and easy to do. Its considerably more important in an Eagle than any other type of vehicle.
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

ozarkrebel

BE SAFE!!!!!  When you have a vibration the safest thing to do is check out all parts, especially when it comes to your steering components. Even if you find one part is bad (ball joint, tie rod end, steering stabilizer, etc.) go ahead and check the other parts as well, you may just find other parts are wore just as bad, which is usually the case. Replacing one part to see if the vibration goes away and ignoring the rest is just plain ignorance. You are gambling not only on your own safety, but you passengers and everybody else who happens to be in your path when a steering part lets go.

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