Multi-Q's

[MudPuppy]

This will be where I post all of my future questions regarding the deconstruction and reconstruction of the SX/4's.

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I am starting to slowly tear down the '81.
I know we once had the answers somewhere around here but either they got deleted or I cannot find them.


What is the best paint to use to restore the black on the chrome trim exterior pieces? Any prep work?

What is the best paint to restore (or change) interior and exterior plastics? Any prep work?

What is the best way (without damaging anything) to remove exterior and interior emblems?

What is the best stuff to re-attach exterior and interior emblems?

How can I get into a hatch with a spoiler on it? With a battery on, pushing the hatch release I hear a click but it doesn't release it, even with someone pulling up on the hatch as another pushes the button.


I think that is it for now. Even if I can't get to some of the other (bigger) things, at least these things can be partially done indoors since I don't have anywhere to work out of the elements during winter.

[Hawk258]

I think 3m makes an adhesive for emblems that is safe and near OEM. I found a site that offers custom plates which may include the adhesive or as a stand-a-lone. If I can find what they use, I will post it here.

[Hawk258]

here ya go, it is 3M I think you will be able to use this. http://www.3m.com/product/information/Plastic-Emblem-Adhesive.html

[MudPuppy]

here ya go, it is 3M I think you will be able to use this. http://www.3m.com/product/information/Plastic-Emblem-Adhesive.html

Cool, thanks Hawk258.

[Hawk258]

no problem as for removing the emblems, here is a youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5saNP7cdFck

[Hawk258]

not sure if it is relevant but here is some info on how to restore plastic chrome trim http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsQBGxcpUWY

[captspillane]

The hatch issues you're having are completely normal. To open Phil's last week he had to push the button while I wiggled away for at least a minute before it opened. There are rubber bumpstops under the hatch, so if you push down and wiggle alot you can take all the weight off the latch just long enough for it to open. As long as you hear the click it is trying to work and will eventually open.

Once you have it open its time to fix the ground. This is accomplished by running a wire near the hinge from the roof to the hatch. For some reason the hinges electrically insulate the hatch from the body, so that wire has to bridge the gap. It’s as simple as a black piece of wire about 8 inches long with a crimp on circle style connector at each end and a self-tapping screw into the metal of the hatch and roof. The solenoid gets power through a brass stud close to the latch. About a foot over toward the passenger side is another aluminum stud that is supposed to get the ground. It’s worthless. I once tested the voltage across my solenoid and got less than 6 volts with the factory setup. I then put the jump wire on and I got the full 12.5 volts across it. The solenoid barely works without that ground wire.

After fixing the ground your hatch will still sometimes get stuck. The bumpstops are supposed to make it pop right up as soon as you hit the button. Even while working properly, however, it will still need to be wiggled about one in ten times to open. That’s hard to do while pushing the dash button. I replace the pushbutton in the dash with a solid rocker switch. I put a plastic doorbell above the passenger side taillight, within reach but out of sight. I push the doorbell with one hand while the other hand pushes down on the hatch, compressing the rubber bumpstops and taking pressure off the latch to let it open with ease. I use the glove box switch to cut power to the doorbell when I want to lock the car.

I always buy the same rocker switch for all my SX4s. It is available at Walmart and some other places. What’s so awesome about it is that the plastic bracket it comes with has the exact same screw width as the original screws in the pushbutton. You don’t need to drill anything or even find new screws. The bracket also angles forward, so if you pop the rocker switch in backwards it will angle back to perfectly fit in your glove box without hitting the door. This is a picture of the switch I buy:

[captspillane]

You also asked about changing interior colors. I use a vinyl friendly paint that is specifically designed for interior pieces and seat vinyl. I've only ever used the black color. I buy it at Advanced Auto. It works great at restoring the sun faded interior panels to like new condition. It also works well on vinyl seats.

The paint forms a very thin surface that can stretch and flex with the vinyl. Thats why it works on seat vinyl. If you put it on too thick, however, it almost instantly peels off. I tried to change a few brown interior parts to black with it, and it didn't end well. It peels before you can put a thick enough coat on to conceal the brown underneath. One one panel it worked well for about a month before I brushed against it and flakes starting falling off. The black pieces that I put a very thin coat on still look perfect over seven years after redoing them. Its very strong and reliable when its thinly applied. The only panel I encountered peeling on is the back piece under the hatch latch, since I scratched it heavily while loading stuff into the back.

[eagleman]

You ask about painting chrome and stainless steel trim pieces.Trust me on this I have probably at one time or another tried them all and the only product that truly worked is black satin made by Mar-Hyde, You may have trouble finding it but it is well worth the effort.No peeling,no fish eyes just plain does a supper job. I found mine at a bumper to bumper auto parts store and its the only paint I use now.

[Draekon]

When installing my spoiler and trunk release, I remember being able to crawl into the back and release the latch with a screwdriver.  I don't remember if the trim ended up blocking this though.  But if there is a slot, a slim screwdriver should work to rotate the latch and release it.

[68AMXGOPAC]

My hatch didn't open either, till my son pushed the button twice one day and it worked. I allways have to push the button twice for it to click twice, then it opens.The again my lift rods are shot.But twice makes it work, don't ask me why though...........

[MudPuppy]

Awesome! You guys rock!
Thank you for all that info.
And very glad to hear that the hatch release isn't totally messed up.
We tried about everything to get it to open the other day - single push of the button while someone else tried to lift up, multiple pushes on the button while someone else tried to lift up,  perfectly timed pushing & lifting and so on. Just never tried the wiggling thing - will have to try that the next day I have off work when it's still daylight outside.

[jim]

Did you see that we have a new victim - er uh member in Arkansas?  He or she has ozark in his or her forum name.

[MudPuppy]

yea lol glad to see our state numbers going up. Looks to be around Yellville too.

[captspillane]

Here is the switch installed. The bracket is backward so that it leans in instead of out. The two screws are the original screws used with the factory pushbutton, they are the perfect width and location for the new rocker switch.