Perkiomen Project Pics

[Prafeston]

Will all the Eagles you have you could certainly use the room!

[captspillane]

In the last three months I've spent a grand total of three days in my garage. I have very little progress to report. The days I could have been home working on my projects were spent working extra time at sea on various vessels throughout the company I work for. In those three days I started rebuilding a friend's Ford E4OD transmission, I spent some time cutting up a parts Eagle, and I test fit the Hornet fenders on the parts Eagle with great results. It's a fairly easy conversion.

What I did "accomplish" was the purchase of four vehicles. Obviously I don't have enough projects already, right? The first is a 1982 J10 pickup truck. I also purchased a J10 cap and a J10 factory rollbar from two other gentlemen on craigslist. The grey J10 is mine, the orange one is the truck the cap used to be on before I purchased it and the blue J10 with black trim is a photo from ebay showing the exact color scheme I plan on painting mine.

I also purchased two Hornets and a 1979 Spirit AMX. The 1974 2 door sedan Hornet is in my garage already but the 1977 Hornet station wagon and the AMX will not be picked up until I'm home again later this month. More information about the Hornets will come soon. I may sell the Hornets to better homes once my Kammback has a new smile.

[captspillane]

I just read BenM's post in another thread.

The 79-83 parts catalog lists a whole mess of available AMC 15 and 20 ratios.

As far as I can tell (F/R)
2.35/2.35 (20:47/17:40)
2.72/2.73 (18:49/15:41)
3.07/3.08 (14:43/13:40)
3.31/3.31 (13:43/13:43)
3.54/3.54 (13:46/13:46)

...Those are the factory Eagle ratios offered. The lowest gears (4.xx) are available aftermarket for CJs; I don't have any Jeep TSMs available to see if there were other options from AMC.

The tooth counts listed are very helpful to me in identifying several axles and axle components sitting around my garage. I realize that I can just calculate the exact ratio myself by counting both sets of teeth and then dividing, but in practice I like to be able to count both and be immediately confident without the division step.

The Group 9 information he quoted (clicking the blue letters links to it) raises several questions concerning my own projects. I just purchased a V8 1979 Spirit AMX. It seems from the Group 9 PDF that there is a difference between the V8 axles and the 6 cylinder axles. It says it has a 8-7/8" diameter drive gear versus a 7-9/16" drive gear. It also seems to say that all 1979 axles are the same, being bigger than the 1980 plus axles. Does that mean that a rear axle from a 1979 four cylinder Spirit would be just as strong as a 304 V8 AMX Spirit? I'm anxious to be able to compare the AMX axle against the axle in my 1982 Spirit GT.

My impression is that the Eagle axle is an AMC 15, while the CJ's and all 1979 passenger cars including the V8 AMX got a slightly stronger AMC 20. I take it that both the AMC 20 and especially the AMC 15 are weaker than the Dana 35 found in XJ's. It seems the AMC 15 is simply a Dana 35 with thinner axle tubes and light duty, smaller bearings and two piece axle shafts. The AMC 20 has its own unique center casting and distinctive rear cover.

Does this mean that the "Superior" one-piece axles I have in my CJ8 Dana 20 would work in the AMX axle if they were the same width? Has anyone here ever tried to upgrade a 1979 AMC axle with one-piece axle shafts? Can anyone confirm or describe what the difference is with the AMX axle?

[captspillane]

The 401 I purchased a few months ago is now destined for installation into a different vehicle. My Eagle SX4 project has been jump-started by my recent purchase. I agreed to buy a performance 401 recently machined and ready to assemble. Everything needed to install it is included. Only the short block is assembled. The rotating assembly was already precisely balanced with a brand new flywheel. Its bored .040 over to a size of 408. The custom forged pistons were designed for a compression ratio of 9.25:1. That's perfect for my intended use of the engine and unusually low for a performance motor. A computer program given the exact specs of the build concluded that the motor will produce 435 HP and 478 ft lb torque.

I did further research into the available GM TBI kits. The largest size available found originally on Chevy 454s is actually limited to about 670 CFM. This engine requires 700 to 750 CFM. The engine does come with an Edelbrock performer 800 CFM carb still new in the box, but I have my heart set on the Edelbrock Multi-port Injection kit. Reading up on the specifics of that kit has convinced me that's exactly what I "need" for my SX4.

[captspillane]

Here is details contrasting the Howell TBI kits and the Edelbrock MPI kits available for an AMC 401. The Howell Kit costs $1450 new ready to install and can be built from a combination of new and used junkyard parts for about half that. It's perfect for a stock 401 or built 360, but can't handle a built 401 like this one. The MPI kit cannot be built from junkyard parts and costs about $3000. I love that it includes an independent programmer and top quality detail work. Notice the fuel pump delete plate? It's sexy.

[rohnk]

Capt,
I wish I had your problems! Nice looking 401. Keep us up to date on this engine build please.

[captspillane]

I'll document every aspect of the build in a project thread once the vehicle is near completion. At this point the engine is essentially done and ready to paint and bolt in place. The body is stripped down, every bolt removed. The axles and transmission and all the other related hardware are sitting next to it ready for installation preparation. I'm excited to see it start coming together.

The only "problem" I have is balancing drivetrain components. The transmission, transfer case, and axles I selected are suitable for a 1/2 ton pickup. I consider them perfectly matched to an engine that puts out less than 350 HP. A stock 1971 AMC 401 was rated at 330 HP and 430 ftlbs. That will work nicely with the heavy duty drivetrain I've sourced for this SX4.

My drivetrain was not designed for 435 HP and 478 ftlbs, however. I'm actively researching now what components will be needed to have a balanced drivetrain. Keep in mind that this engine will produce much more torque and many times the horsepower of a Cummins Turbodiesel 6BT. There are sources that quote that a highly modified Mustang T5 can live behind a motor with 450HP, but they do not tell the whole story. A small displacement motor can achieve 450 HP if it spins fast enough. Horsepower is a unit of work, or energy dispelled over time. The strength of a drivetrain component is given in torque. The transmission will require robust bearings to live at those speeds, but the shafts themselves will not see a large degree of torsion and shear stress. This engine would smoke a T5 effortlessly. It has the potential to break all the heavy duty components I've installed behind it.

[68AMXGOPAC]

Capt. just a thought, if it isn't allready done,look into running a line from the front to the back of the engine for better oiling on the rear main.This is standard practice on these, they are known to have issues.Especially when "built" up. I have the specs and a drawing for it, and had it done to my 401 , but can't remember the specifics off the top of my head.( am not at home) .

[captspillane]

The gentleman who built this engine gave me three books detailing how to build up AMC V8s. He actually had the main bearing caps machined straight from dimensions found in one of those books. He launched into a heated debate over the aux oil line.

Mainstream wisdom says that this line is needed to get oil back to the rear main. His argument, supported in some of the documentation he's looked at, says that this line should not be added because it decreases the oil pressure in other oiling circuits throughout the engine. He maintains that proper oiling of the rear main is best accomplished by increasing the volume of oil slightly and the oil pressure dramatically. He also put extensive time into comparing solid lifters versus roller cams. His opinion is that solid lifters along with special restrictive pushrods that increase the oil pressure will sufficiently oil the rear main without the added line. He also provided special lifters with a laser cut oiling hole in the center for increased oil flow directly to the cam lobe.

He is very distrustful of the roller cams available for AMC V8s because he has personally known a friend who ruined a high performance 401 as a direct consequence of poor design. He is a huge fan of roller cams in Chevy applications, but his scrutiny of the AMC versions concluded that they do not maintain proper pushrod adjustment. He further chose solid lifters for his build because they provide a consistant and reliable pushrod adjustment that is critical for high performance applications.

I'm still researching and learning before I pass judgement on these decisions. I still have the opportunity to change this engine before installation. Only the short block has been assembled and match balanced to the top quality flywheel and harmonic balancer. Everything else is new in the box ready for installation or substitution.

Thank you 68AMXGOPAC for the scans detailing the opposite side of this debate. They are critical in my research. Eggs!

[68AMXGOPAC]

The gentleman who built this engine gave me three books detailing how to build up AMC V8s. He actually had the main bearing caps machined straight from dimensions found in one of those books. He launched into a heated debate over the aux oil line.

Mainstream wisdom says that this line is needed to get oil back to the rear main. His argument, supported in some of the documentation he's looked at, says that this line should not be added because it decreases the oil pressure in other oiling circuits throughout the engine. He maintains that proper oiling of the rear main is best accomplished by increasing the volume of oil slightly and the oil pressure dramatically. He also put extensive time into comparing solid lifters versus roller cams. His opinion is that solid lifters along with special restrictive pushrods that increase the oil pressure will sufficiently oil the rear main without the added line. He also provided special lifters with a laser cut oiling hole in the center for increased oil flow directly to the cam lobe.

He is very distrustful of the roller cams available for AMC V8s because he has personally known a friend who ruined a high performance 401 as a direct consequence of poor design. He is a huge fan of roller cams in Chevy applications, but his scrutiny of the AMC versions concluded that they do not maintain proper pushrod adjustment. He further chose solid lifters for his build because they provide a consistant and reliable pushrod adjustment that is critical for high performance applications.

I'm still researching and learning before I pass judgement on these decisions. I still have the opportunity to change this engine before installation. Only the short block has been assembled and match balanced to the top quality flywheel and harmonic balancer. Everything else is new in the box ready for installation or substitution.

Thank you 68AMXGOPAC for the scans detailing the opposite side of this debate. They are critical in my research. Eggs!

Your welcome Capt. , I would be interested in any info you have from his side of the discussion if possible.There are very few knowledgeble AMC engine builders around.Especially those that have actual experience and hands on results,rather than " the book says" aspect.There are 2 AMX's that run at a local dragstrip.I will pick there brain as to there set up too.

[captspillane]

My impression so far is that the aux oiling line is a great upgrade to an otherwise stock AMC V8. It seems everyone might be right. This engine is a much more refined beast. Every component in this engine has been thought through and designed to work together to fix the problem. It seems that someone building an AMC V8 from scratch has the opportunity to change the entire oiling system instead of simply adding on to the stock system.

I'm too in the position of trying to learn as much as I can from the people who have already done what I'm undertaking. There is alot to learn and many people to learn from.

[captspillane]

I haven't updated anything here in awhile. In June I got engaged and have been busy building a home and planning a wedding since. I purchased the engagement ring, a beautiful race quality AMC 401, and my seventh SX4 all in the same month. My AMC budget is drastically limited for a few months while I catch up from those investments. Two months passed without any time available for my garage, but some work has been accomplished this month. Here are the things going on in my garage right now:

-The newest blue SX4 I purchased is sharing my garage right now with my Kammback. I have two engines that I freshly rebuilt back in November of last year going into both of those Eagles. Yesterday I finished removing the entire steering and suspension system in the blue SX4. By the end of September I plan on driving that Eagle as my primary car while I finish the Kammback. The Kammback already has a freshly rebuilt rear axle and lots of other mechanical and interior work completed in it. I will just be replacing all of the original suspension and steering parts that remain and then installing a rebuilt 258 before sending it to get painted. The front end will be assembled using Hornet fenders and grill. The Hornet bumper will be tucked back a few inches by drilling new holes in an Eagle bumper mounting bracket in order to eliminate the four inch spacer original to Hornets. Both of those Eagles will be fuel injected. Both Eagles will be totally painted in their underside before the rebuilt engines are installed. All new bushings, wheel bearings, and gaskets will be used in every component before being reinstalled.

-I’ve been preparing to build a large number of louvers. As soon as the Blue SX4 is driven to the inspection station at the end of this month I return to that project. I need to complete several sets of louvers for my own cars before I begin building sets to sell. I’ll be working the bugs out and refining the construction process by prototyping my own cars first.

-I’m saving up for the Edelbrock AMC V8 Multi-port fuel injection kit for my Red SX4. That is the last big item I need to assemble my AMC 401 SX4. I’ll eventually need a rear Dana 60 for that car as well, but I’ll have to install the Dana 44 I have for it in the meantime. Two other SX4’s are currently under construction in the garage at the same time I finish up on the blue SX4 and my Kammback. The goal is to have all four of those Eagles as well as three other Eagles and two other Jeeps finished and ready to drive by the winter solstice meet in December 2013.

-I've been measuring axle widths with different combinations of tires. I love when my tires are exactly flush with the outside of the plastic fender flares. To do this in the front you need the outside of the tires to be 69-1/4" wide in the front and about 71" in the rear. The stock Eagle Sport rims give an outside width of 65-1/2" in the rear and 67-1/2 in the front. My Kammback right now with the spoke style Cherokee rims is 71" in the front with 1.5" spacers. I'll be switching the spacers out soon to the smallest size available, 1", to try to get the front wheels tucked back under the fender flares. They stick out about 3/4" further than I wish. I think I'll be happy with it once I bring it within a quarter inch of the correct value. Keep in mind that the spoked XJ rims don't fit on the front of an Eagle at all without a spacer. They have about 3/4" difference in backspacing in comparison to the ten hole XJ rims. On most of my Eagles I'll be using the ten holes. They work wonderfully in the front. The width is perfect without a spacer, coming out to 69-1/4" total width. In the back they add two inches to the width without spacers, making the rear look considerably better. On the back of my Kammback I added 2" spacers with the spoke XJ rims. With the ten holes I'll be using either 1" or 1.5" spacers in the rear because the ten hole XJ rims need about 3/4" less of a spacer than the spoke XJ rims. I'm excited to share more pictures of these different combinations once I finish this blue SX4.

I use 235/75R15 tires. I don't modify the exterior of the plastic fender flares, but I do modify them inside the fender wall. They will rub without modification. On this blue SX4 I have the entire suspension being replaced, so the final fit of the tires will be done with the coil spring removed and a jack pushing the control arm tight against the rubber bumper to test the fender fit in the worst case scenario. I'll have my fiance turn the steering wheel side to side while testing the clearance of the tire across its entire range of motion as I make the final trims.







Remember that these two pictures were taken in June with a 1.5" spacer in the front. I'm decreasing it to 1" spacers to help bring the front tires in a half inch to where I want the front tires. The 1.5" spacers worked perfectly when I had these same tires on my Spirit but they are a little too big for an Eagle. It is pictured with 2" rear spacers.

[Prafeston]

Wow, dude, that Blue SX/4 looks like a great buy!

[shaggimo]

Where do find the time? lol, agree with rafe here that blue one look pretty sweet. What year hornet nose are you going with, should look pretty interesting, the gf and I toyed with that idea for the sx/4 but never found a donor in time, lol.

[captspillane]

The blue SX4 sure is pretty nice. I'll describe it further here next month once I get some pictures to put up.

The Hornet front end I have is the best of two different Hornets. I have a '77 Station Wagon and a '74 2dr Sedan. I actually don't like the Hornet front end as much as I like the 1980 Eagle slat grill front end, but it should match the Kammback perfectly. I really think Gremlin's would have been much more popular if they shared the same fenders as their Hornet siblings. I'm rather enthusiastic about having an Eagle with Gremlin taillights, Hornet fenders, and a Spirit Armrest. I might dig up some Concord and Javelin parts to mix into the car for good measure.