Floor pan rust - Temporary Penetrol?

[macdude443]

I've pulled back the driver side floor carpeting to find a new amount of rust.  A screw driver went through in two areas near the frame rail.  Would it be alright to use a wire brush to get up the loose stuff and then paint it with Penetrol to stop it from getting any worse before welding is done?

[priya]

I'd say that's a good idea.   You'll have to remove any coating before welding but that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

[Canoe]

Then give it a week to dry, then use generous amounts of construction adhesive and bolts to put in a new piece of sheet metal (seals holes) until you can do welding. Just as easy to do the whole floor as it is to do a spot where the hole is.

[macdude443]

Can you give me an example of a good construction adhesive?  I'm not familiar with that.  I used a bit of purple power de-ruster on the lighter spots.  It converted it to a black, primer-ready surface.  I almost don't buy it as being "rust-free" though.

[Canoe]

I use LePage "PL Premium" Construction Adhesive.
Polyurethane based.

Do not use "no more nails" or similar products (haven't tried it, but everyone selling it says it is no where near as strong as the PL).

[GRONK]

Two street signs go missing and another rusted floor is repaired.... hahahaha

[Canoe]

Overkill.
One street sign is plenty thick. Something thin for the other side if the existing floor is too rusted to bolt to.

[Canoe]

photos

http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=36571.msg294505#msg294505

[macdude443]

Good post.  Friend of mine welded in new metal.  I then cleaned it, dried it and primed with epoxy primer.

[captspillane]

Hilarious! Gronk had it right. Why fix one floor when you can fix both? That's the reason for a second street sign to go missing. Of course if you have one Eagle, the addiction is just starting. The second Eagle will follow her home soon, so that one will want the same love too. Soon you'll have a clear shot to work each day without any stop signs to hamper the journey.

[mach1mustang351]

I replaced my drivers side front floor on my wagon.  I wanted to do a simple fix and ended up cutting up the parts car to get a solid floor.  On any steel repair like that make sure after the piece is welded in to use seam sealer on the front and back along all the seams.  This keeps the moisture out.  Befor I applied my seam sealer I used POR 15 on all the metal pieces after scraping off the factor sound deadener.  My goal is to do this once only.   

[macdude443]

Yep, I bought a can of brushable seam sealer from Eastwood.

[Canoe]

I replaced my drivers side front floor on my wagon.  I wanted to do a simple fix and ended up cutting up the parts car to get a solid floor.  On any steel repair like that make sure after the piece is welded in to use seam sealer on the front and back along all the seams.  This keeps the moisture out.  Befor I applied my seam sealer I used POR 15 on all the metal pieces after scraping off the factor sound deadener.  My goal is to do this once only.   

Everywhere I used seam sealer or POR-15 on steel has failed. But we get a lot of salt on streets here.
For seam sealer, I use the PL construction adhesive.
I used to use epoxy primer. Now I use Penetrol or heat-treated engine enamel. They work so well, I haven't bothered with epoxy primer since, except for outer body work where I like an epoxy flash coat to seal it before colour.
Then Waxoyl Hard Body on the underside, Waxoyl Rust Inhibitor on the inside.

[mach1mustang351]

I replaced my drivers side front floor on my wagon.  I wanted to do a simple fix and ended up cutting up the parts car to get a solid floor.  On any steel repair like that make sure after the piece is welded in to use seam sealer on the front and back along all the seams.  This keeps the moisture out.  Befor I applied my seam sealer I used POR 15 on all the metal pieces after scraping off the factor sound deadener.  My goal is to do this once only.   

Everywhere I used seam sealer or POR-15 on steel has failed. But we get a lot of salt on streets here.
For seam sealer, I use the PL construction adhesive.
I used to use epoxy primer. Now I use Penetrol or heat-treated engine enamel. They work so well, I haven't bothered with epoxy primer since, except for outer body work where I like an epoxy flash coat to seal it before colour.
Then Waxoyl Hard Body on the underside, Waxoyl Rust Inhibitor on the inside.

I guess I did it wrong.  I'll let you all know in a couple years. 

[Canoe]

I guess I did it wrong.  I'll let you all know in a couple years. 

Not wrong. Just POR-15 is so expensive for something that fails so often, and when applied according to their fine print with proper degreasing (they make an excellent degreaser, but expensive).
I've got a friend that's really ticked he paid so much and spent his time to do the whole frame of his Yukon, only to have it peel off in less than a year.
Rusts through the paint, creeps under the paint, peels off; not at all like their claims.
I don't want to revisit repairs. The only thing I'll still use POR-15 for is on aluminum parts. When those are out of the sun, so far they usually stay protected and looking great.
As others have success with it, the only thing I can come up with to explain the consistent failure is the winters here have a lot of freeze/thaw, wet, and salt on the roads. Grasping at straws, but unwilling to waste my time using it.