Take it easy on the Eagle, new means nothing!
To Explain;
First a 195 degree thermostat should be fine in -130 below zero F.
That Eagle should be pumping heat inside the car in less than 3.5 minutes.
So lets do the cheap checks first!
You have just started the Eagle with a couple of pumps on the pedal
Check Following:
Have hood open, remove thumb screw from air cleaner, remove cover
Choke should be totally closed,
If not adjust it so it is.
Then retest from cold as the choke opens you dash meter should be entering
up over the first slash mark, weather your Webber is heat tube or electric this is
How they work, period!
Lets say after cold check, choke opens and closes as stated
Put you air cleaner cover back on and jump to next cheap check.
Now check RPM at cold it should be at between 1100 and 1200 R.P.M.
If not adjust this at cold till it starts from cold to correct R.P.M.
Should stay this way for about 2 minutes max.
Then be able on its own to start slowing down till it gets to about 600 R.P.M.
If yours doesn't do this at a cold start fix it so it does.
If it does do what is stated above jump to third cheap check.
On the back of the intake manifold towards the fire wall there should be a single
Wire and a threaded stud look for it, pull the wire from the stud, clean the inside
contact point with a small amount of steel wool pressed onto the top of a scribe
these get a green coating on them at times, giving some real bad reading if any at all!
Take a short wire and touch the inside of newly cleaned contact and ground the other
side of the wire to a good ground. Now check you dash reading the temp should be ping-ed
to the top like past the "H" of hot, this simple test tells you if your dash temp is playing games
with you, If it does not ping to top clean again, and check for voltage to heat sensor.
You will also notice inside the covered single wire connector the contact inside has a split
in it before you reinstall on-top of stud make sure you use pliers to push that slot to all most closed cant see it any more, steel wool the top of the threaded sensor also,now put sensor wire back on, once on the sensor give it a third of a turn to make sure it seated correctly.
If you find that all the cheap checks come to be perfect, then jump to last cheap check
The air pocket headache, to check this you need to remove your radiator cap and place
in safe place, get into Eagle, and open in cabin heater controls to highest push on bottom
and to heat on top lever, no fan needed, start your Eagle, now with a little wait on your part
when the engine begins to heat up the fluid in the cap area should look like it's flowing
by, because your thermostat opened and what was in engine is now in radiator what was in radiator should be in engine, the dreaded air pocket shows up here well, if the radiator is full when started
as your thermostat opens and fluid flows, you in this case would find your radiator dry as the fluid
was there was now pumped into the engine, correct by filling with new fluid, if it does become dry
you want to keep filling the radiator several times as your cabin heating area may also be air locked
when it has cycled thru 5 or 6 times install back onto radiator your cap.
Check by letting entire engine to cold then start the Eagle again and it should heat up in time frame outlined above.
If the Radiator check shows now fluid moving at all let say for 20 minutes and all the above cheap checks are good you now have one of either two problems, thermostats even new ones can be flawed out of box, over the years 40 or better I have run into this problem if not 30 times.
Get a new thermostat before you begin this next test, and gaskets and sealer, have ready for
now the somewhat time taker little more work check.
Take vise-grips and pinch of hear hoses before removing them from thermostat housing.
Take Heater hoses off remove radiator upper hose, remove thermostat housing, now as you ply the housing away from front of engine please with good lighting notice which way the spring which opens and closes the thermostat is, I have seen in my life people knowing better but make the mistake of placing the thermostat in backwards, the spring part should always face into the engine
not the other way, if found spring facing out away from engine, it will open when first installed but, will freeze in a part open part closed state, because in hangs up on the casting of the thermostat holder, so you get moving fluid always, thru the engine to the radiator and this causes
the fluid in the engine never to be able to heat up, if you find your thermostat backwards consider yourself lucky! Whey cause I have seen others do it backwards and the thermostat stays closed causing the Eagle to over heat one such friend I have froze the engine dead overheated he had two problems bad sensor wire connection so he never saw his heat rise to the High heat area
and he put his thermostat in backwards Ouch!
New motor!
So bless your lucky stars yours is always cold or slow to heat up. If thermostat is total closed and upon inspection it was placed in the engine the correct way, then the thermostat is toast, replace with desired new thermostat, then put assembly together put hoses back on, keep the inside heater settings to open, now start Eagle and let run with cap off of radiator watch for the fluid to start flowing by make sure your radiator fluid never goes lower than the rim where the cap goes even
while your Eagle is running, once you see no lowering of fluid look at bottom of cap before installing it back on, look around the rubber gasket area any sign of wear replace it, for the replaced thermostat with fluid full may be good now but if your cap leaks as pressure builds up
and sends heated fluid into the recovery bottle, which also needs to be eye inspected for holes
so fluid stays in it, because if it leaks then you would never catch your engine cooling fluid
slowly just draining away, I always replace the radiator cap, every-time I replace a thermostat
fooling around with old parts for my money and time is not worth it period, just for note here your fluid should be changed every two years, not doing so will cause acids that form from heat and cooling to eat away at the radiator core which is the main reasons why so many people have to replace the Radiators! Don't believe me, take a voltage meter place positive to a clean surface
on your radiator, and the other on ground Eagle not running no keys in nothing, just you meter and hood up, you will see a voltage to ground, and wonder where does that come from, that my friend are acids interacting with a metal break down of you radiator, it creates a voltage and drains on your battery, Seen lots of people get dead battery's and wonder why, they replace there battery
leave Eagle or any other car sit a month and Battery dead, then wonder why, its called main-tance!
Anyway if all the cheap and the replaced thermostat have been done and works as I have told you it should, your Eagle should be working just Fine.
If not, this is no rocket science here one of those steps above was not done.
You don't need cardboard, some people do that to get a higher temp for heat inside the car Or Eagle, thats the only reason to do that, remember about the thermostat spring being inside the engine, why cause thats where the hot water comes from first the engine, then to the radiator not the other way around, so the cardboard trick keeps the fluid from cooling so much before it re-enters the engine, thats all the cardboard trick does!
Now the water pump or clutch fan question
This is a point to where the clutch may freeze up meaning fan always running, easy check
with Engine off you should be able to spin your fan very easy, But let me make this point
even if your Clutch fan was frozen in place running all the time, your Eagle if all above
Status is as pointed out your Eagle might make it up to the second line before the green shaded
area on your dash, but you will have heat and it still will never take 20 or 30 minutes to bring the Eagle to temp, And I mean ever!
Its a closed system, those are are all the parts that need to work, If they are, then you no longer have a heat up or heat inside the cabin problem, that simple.
If you Eagle is still cold, taking a long time to heat up then, one or more of the above points is not working as I stated, cause that is all there is to the entire system, it is that straight forward,
One last note here which I call the Eagle is a liar to you, what do I mean, well
do simple test, on any given cold day, Start you Eagle let sit for 3 minutes most, open hood,
hold away from the fan your upper radiator hose if feels hot or warm, then the car is warm
its that sensor in the back near the fire wall, its rare but they break down inside so the resistance
change between it and ground can be off by 300 to 900 ohms meaning your dash meter is being lied to, you would need to remove that wire you cleaned, using a 7/16 wrench remove the threaded sensor, replace and reconnect your sensor wire as I said it above, and your dash meter
will show correct temp!
I am a engineer buy trade, I have my PHD in electronics, I am also certified in all 11 ASE certifications, three of those have to do with EPA alt fuels.
So when I say, these are and can be you only problems, I mean it! Either that you have a Eagle from outer space, cause if you checked everything I asked you to check, there's nothing left to check!
So you would have the impossible Outer Space Eagle.
Done
Let me know how it goes, I am the dead guy they gave a computer to, here in Philly, PA.
Nice meeting you amcconcord-2
Topic: Extreme time to hit operating temp (Read 12511 times)