Well, I got the bearings and seals last week (Doug, still no luck on the o-ring side, but I'm confident our mighty postal service will succeed in delivering them, sooner or later
). So good. Then, last saturday I prepared the workplace, aligned all my tools, and started the long hub removal adventure.
There's enough stuff for a detailed how-to (I also have some pics) and stuff left for the "DON'T DO THIS" section: I'll prepare and post both when it will be over, IF it will ever be over...
The center axle nut was loosened quite easily (with the help of a 1,5 meters long bar
), then I lifted and supported the front, removed the wheel, found out that the lower end of the caliper had shifted 1 - 1/2 inch towards the wheel due to the rotor's abnormal play (the hub bearings are really shot).
Ok, no visible damage anyway, removed and hung the caliper out of the way to the top of the spring as per the Book.
Then, removed the axle center nut. Everything OK.
Then, disconnected the caliper anchor plate and the steering arm from the steering knuckle. This is the first PITA, because the bolts are likely to be locked in place, and we are working in a quite restricted place: no room for big tools, so sweat 'n swear. But it has to be done, otherwise you'll have no access to the three darn torx head bolts retaining the hub carrier.
Now the "DON'T DO THIS" part: the Book says you have to disconnect the half shaft flange from the T-Case and remove the whole half shaft assembly (being careful not to let the half safts separate in the process - just wrap some wire around the two boots).
Well, I thought I had dealt enough with "frozen" bolts and decided to proceed bypassing this part.
Bad idea. I should have followed the Book.
Basically because if you don't pull out the axle, the steering arm (even if correctly disconnected) won't get out of the way: it will float around there and it won't clear your way to the lower one of the three torx carrier bolts.
There are three of them: the upper front is easily reachable, the upper rear is cleared when you remove the caliper anchor plate, but that f**k##g (sorry) lower son of a **#*h (sorry again
) is in a very very difficult position.
Add the fact that they're all Loc-tited and that you access them from the back side of the steering knuckle and you have the full picture.
So what did I do ? Well, using the very very narrow space gained by pulling backwards as much as possible the half shaft spindle and moving the steering arm here and there (but it won't let go, you always have it in front of your tool) I attacked the lower bolt with the wrong tool: an ordinary wrench and a hammer.
It was the last one (I happily removed the upper two), rain was starting to fall, so I hurried up and (as always when I do such things) I screw'd up everything. The wrench slipped bad, the hammer hit my thumb (ouch!) and (worst part) I ended up with a
badly rounded torx head frozen bolt. In the hardest place ever to reach with any other "rescue" tool. (whoever tried to remove the hub will know what I mean).
Eventually (too late) I found the way to remove the steering arm anyway: if you disconnect it from the tie rod (a puller is needed) it will slip off pulling it backwards. But, as I said, too late.
So now I'm at a stop. Sitting Duck.
I think that bolt will never come off, I'm thinking about drilling it away (slow speed drill and cobalt steel bit) but I'm afraid of damaging the carrier threads and/or the knuckle. And then I'd need new bolts anyway (which I don't have).
Any Ideas ? Suggestions ? What would you do ?
Sorry for the long writing, but I wanted to give the best picture of the situation.