weird Starting problem (Solved, I hope...)

[LaGuardia]

Yes, them.
I'm telling this because I had the problem a couple of days after I replaced them... the rubber caps sometimes act as a "reverse" suction cup and tend to "pop out" wires from the dist cap.

It's worth looking at it...

[IowaEagle]

Yes, the wires could be the problem.

[Whuntmore]

Yup, that's what I think it was...  She's running without stalling now.  I went and checked every wire, pushed them all on tighter with a bit of twisting, and that worked.

She's still not running well - That's still the carb though, and my bloody choke is gotta come off.  Even in this temp, it still wants to close the flap all the way, and give it too much fuel on startup.  what a pain.

But, at least when I get her started, she doesn't die on me...

[LaGuardia]

Glad it worked out for you !
Sometimes things are simpler than we think...

The choke shouldn't be a big issue, I'd try cleaning and lubricating all around again and again until the whole thing understands how it should work. If it still won't, just make up something (bent paperclips turn out to be useful ) to keep it forced open. It will work, at least until next fall...

Just a thought... but how hard would it be to modify the choke into something manual, like in the good old times ?
I'm thinking about some cable driven gear, controlled by some internal lever (the "squid release" knob would be perfect - in fact the first time I saw it I though it was a manual choke).

I think having a direct control of the choke system would solve a lot of problems.

[Whuntmore]

well my problem with my choke is the little bugger has got rivets - Instead of screws holding it on.   Soooo I'm gonna have to take the whole carb off, then grind those rivets off, then put on the one I have...

But I might just get ahold of that guy on E-bays who sells the motorcraft carbs for eagles and Jeeps, and get one off him.

[GRONK]

Probably a bad power valve, or needle set on the carb.  Could be a checked fuel line allowing air in but problem probably lies w/in the carb.

[Eagleearl]

The choke should close all the way when the engine is cold. The choke pull-off should open it up about a quarter inch as soon as there is vaccum when the engine starts. Then the choke control slowly opens the choke as it heats up electrically.

[jim]

well my problem with my choke is the little bugger has got rivets - Instead of screws holding it on.   Soooo I'm gonna have to take the whole carb off, then grind those rivets off, then put on the one I have...

But I might just get ahold of that guy on E-bays who sells the motorcraft carbs for eagles and Jeeps, and get one off him.

"That guy" is now a member here.  He may pay shipping for fellow members.
You could search for gronk.

[GRONK]

Who needs a choke.  Just let me know if it's for a Carter or a Motorcraft.  I have hundreds of them.  If anyone has a use for the older thermal (non-electric) caps, I have over a thousand of them. 

Don't grind off the ends of the rivits.  Are they rivits or snap-off's?  The easiest way to remove snap-offs is to use a hacksaw blade and notch them so you can remove them w/  a flathead screwdriver.  If rivits (SP?) you will have to carefully drill off the head and punch the rest out.  Might need to tap.

[Whuntmore]

@Gronk,  I have another choke, I just have to get the old one off.  Ok, I'll try that first.  Thx for the info.

@ Jim,

Yup, I actually sent him a message on the 4th (same date as my above posting) and told him about the site.  He (Michael/Gronk) stated he has sold to several members here.  I did mention that quite a few members here didn't know about him (I didn't until recently).  

It was great of him to show up, and introduce himself here - As I'm sure he's very busy.  

I'm probably gonna get one of his carbs, and get it on my Eagle.  (he's suggested the 2150 to me) She won't start right, or run well until she's warmed up.  I really need to check that choke, but I think that's part of the problem.  

The other problem is I've never rebuilt a carb before, and this was my first one.  It runs, but I know I didn't do the setup quite right.  As a result, she doesn't run quite right.  I've brought that little pain over for a tune (at least 3 people - Two were mechanics) and it still doesn't work right.

[Whuntmore]

Ok, so today I was heading down to Pat's Place (another member here) and my car died on the side of the road.

It's not getting any spark, and that bloody choke keeps closing shut - Even when it's full operating temp, that choke will close that flap.

Anyways, the spark plugs are new, the wires are new, and now I've got a new distributor cap.

No spark to the plugs, and man!  were they fouled.  They were very sooty, and one was almost caked with soot.  those plugs haven't been on the car for like 4 months.  Maybe 300 miles of driving time on them at the most.  So I know that carb is running wayyy too rich.  I can't seem to get it to lean off.

So, the only things left I can think that would cause no spark is possibly:

the coil,
the module inside the distributor,
or the HEI,

I have no idea what else it could be.

[GRONK]

Make sure you have the correct choke.  Carter chokes open in the opposite direction from Motorcraft/Holley chokes but look VERY similar.  You can always remove and "flip" the inner coil.  If you have good power to your choke (+) try running a ground (-) to one of the screw terminals on the choke cap retainer.  Choke should be fully open in about 2 minutes of engine running.

[Whuntmore]

Well the car is running now, it was that bloody coil.  I got an Accel 8140 coil, and it started first click of the key.

I swapped Pat's 'good working' carter carb, with my 'poorly adjusted' carb.  she fired up no sweat.

So, pretty soon I'm gonna get the MC 2150, and be done with all this carb nonsense, and then she should run right.

[IowaEagle]

Was it the OE coil?

[Whuntmore]

Was it the OE coil?

What's OE?  Some of this 'Netlingo' I don't understand.  If you mean the one I took out, it was pretty much the same coil.  It was a Yellow (most of the label was worn off) and it was a two post.

the Previous Owner had already done part of the ignition conversion, but had missed a few things.  He/she had done the Dist. cap and rotor, and the coil. 

they had missed the 8mm wires, and the upgraded HEI (I think that's what it's called).