Ongoing Stuff

[mudkicker715]

Might have been ever so helpful to have drilled and tapped the heads

Next thought is I think hex/allen bolts work 100% better

[Nate Tidwell]

Using them. Got to pull the cover and drill and tap to 5/16". But on this day off. I don't have the cash to get what I need.

[shaggimo]

I don't believe you will have to drill, just carefully run the tap down (that's all I needed to do), be careful it doesn't break, becuse that will really p*** you off (yeah I know from experience, lol).

[mudkicker715]

I had some year of concord no tap required. An 86 also no tap.

Some years yes. Maybe that is required

[IowaEagle]

If your car went thru the factory recall for valve covers and if the dealer went by the book they would have installed helicoils on the driver's side.  Who knows, they could even be metric.

[Nate Tidwell]

Hole got messed up. Got some hold downs made that utilized the studs. Removed AC, rerouted heater hoses, replaced line from fuel pump to carb, TFI/HEI in progress, "extra" wire removal, sensors that were once monitored by computer being removed. Catalytic converter to be removed tomorrow, as well as the rest of the old pulse air stuff down there.

[Nate Tidwell]

Update:
Got the alternator situated, with a double groove pulley and a 17400 belt.
Need to attach the ground wires for the TFI/HEI.
Why are there so many wires? Got to finish that, I'm up to the firewall.
Need to set the timing and adjust the MC 2100 still. Probably should put a charge on the battery first.
Need to remove the A/C line that goes into the firewall.
Need to remove the Receiver/Drier and condenser.

[Nate Tidwell]

20101030 1625
The Good

• The Eagle Runs
• Redid what I had done of the TFi/HEI hybrid. Bad wiring somewhere.
• Replaced sparkplugs again. AP985 Gap at .045
• Didn't need to set timing. Checked it and it was good.
• No more ECM
• Tested the alternator since its running by disconnecting battery +. It kept running; ergo, the pulley idea and belt works.

The BAD

• The Valve cover leaks still
• Still need to fab a throttle return bracket.
• Have many wires to get rid of.
• Need to remove the rest of the Air conditoning stuff.
• The ignition condensor broke (the wire came off of it).
• Need to set idle speed, it sounds high.
• Excess smoke from exhaust

Questions:

• Can I use the stock valve cover gasket to replace the one that came with this <a href="http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-890/Jeep-Parts-Aluminum-258/Detail"> one?</a>
  
  • What's the best way to remove the harness that went to the ECM
  • Is there anything that will not function properly without it (other than fuel delivery, choke, or ignition)?
  • What is the likelyhood of the excess smoke be caused from it sitting for the 2/12-3 months?

[IowaEagle]

Yes the stock gasket, Rubber or Cork is the same.

[Nate Tidwell]

I have a spare stock cork in the trunk. The one that came with the vc was 2x thicker.

[IowaEagle]

Mine was thicker too.  FelPro used to offer a thicker cork one.  I don't know if they still do.

[Nate Tidwell]

I'll try the one in the trunk first. Its easy to pull the cover off now... There is nothing routed on top of it any more.

[Nate Tidwell]

I figured I'd get the fuel and timing right before I do another vc gasket. Well I had fire twice. I am not talking about spark. I got that yesterday. The carb caught fire twice. For some reason, I had to put the gas into the carb manually? I am wondering if the fuel pump still works. Guess I will pull the outlet line and get somebody to crank it and see if anything comes out. If no, I can also eliminate line issues too if I run the inlet hose from my gas can. Anybody have any other suggestions?

[Nate Tidwell]

Pump works. Found a leak in the pump in the carburetor. The hole is stripped.

[Nate Tidwell]

Got a Chilton 14300 today from the bay. 9.15 shipped. Arrived today!