Eagle Automatic Transmission -Car won't move

[m311sublim2001]

I have a question about my 83' Eagle.  I have skimmed threw most of this board and havn't seen anything describing it but if there is a post please just refer me and i'll be happy to read up.  I traded an old shotgun for a pair of eagles, i have an 83 "barebones" modle and an 84 with all the trimming.  Both are automatics.  I have the 83 running after a carb rebuild, some good gas and a new batt.  I put her in gear once she was warmed up and she seems to go into revers ok but nothing else, if i put her in drive i can see the engine jump as if she has shifted but i can rev as high as I want and she doesnt seem to even be trying to move.  I did notice alot of open and unhooked vaccum lines in the engine compartment as well as the fact I seem to have an older carborator.  My carb doesn't have the electric solinoid (which i dont knwo what does i'll admite) and someone has cut the solid throttle link and welded it the other way round so it will fit this new carb.  I do have the original one (also in need of a rebuild) but the engine seems to run great with the new one.  Is there something with teh vaccum lines not being hooked up where could cause the car not to go in gear or am I just looking at a rebuild/replace situation?  Hope all is well, thank you.

[maddog]

my eagle did the samething and i had to rebuild it but before you do that you should check the fluid level after it gets good and hot if that ain't it remove the transmission oil pan and check the filter it could be clogged from sitting for so long. as for the vacuum lines i can't think of any that actually connect to the transmission it's self, the only ones i know of connect to the transfer case shifter.

[IowaEagle]

It appears you have several issues to sort out here.  First check to make sure the transfer case is fully engaged in 2WD or 4WD, to see if that is the problem.  A 9/16" wrench applied to the selector lever on the transfer case is all you need to check that.  I would put it in 2WD for testing purposes.  The lever is moved towards the rear to do that.  Make sure you have a functioning throttle rod from the carb to the trans.  If you don't, then don't drive it until that is repaired/replaced -- not fixing it will guarantee you needing a new transmission.  If you have a lot of disconnected missing vacuum lines then don't expect your car to run right and your transfer case to shift right.

[thereverendbill]

well, there's the cars brandon has been trying to save

[83Eagle!]

well, looks like we know what happened to the cars brandon was hunting down for weeks

These two eagles are likely in the junk yard in Omaha.  They were up for barter for about a month.  I tried to buy them 5 separate times.  Was told they went to a 'yard last Tuesday

[IowaEagle]

last time he was active was the day after he posted this topic.  Makes you wonder what the status of the car is now.

[83Eagle!]

They are likely at U-PUll-It.  I tried to go buy them a number of times. 

[MaskNMI]

m311: hum, you got one heck of a deal....was an over/under at least?1?  lol

rule out the transfer case as IA says...it can make it feel like you have lost your tranny, no lie!

I also reiterate what he said about throttle rod, TorqueFlites have no vacuum modulator like Ford & GM trannies 3 spds, so you can rule out those disconnected lines, but they depend on the throttle lever for proper line pressure, NOT just kickdown...

if it's poorly functioning, you are good at basic fabrication, and you care more about functionality than originality, i HIGHLY recommend you go to a junkyard and get the TorqueFlite throttle *cable* setup off a second gen Ram or Ram Van et al...I am just getting this mod finished up on my Eagle...it will fit on your AMC TorqueFlite just like it fits on the Mopar one and it has a very standard carburetor end that works with my Edelbrock 4V for example...I figured this out recently, and am still fine tuning the bracket at the carburetor on mine, but it's an easy mod, worth the 10 bucks it cost me so far....

onto the tranny, first thing you need to do is inspect the fluid that was in it....I recommend just getting a tranny filter kit and draining the tranny, any car that has been sitting surely needs it, and replace the fluid that comes out when you take the pan off...if it is real bad you should drain the torque converter, too....some TC's have plugs ,some have to be removed to be drained...cant remember for the A998, someone chime in?!?...

anyway if you're not familiar with automatic transmissions the fluid should be RED not brown, and should not have a burnt odor, but an almost sweet one, and it should not have an undue amount of metallic particles foating around in it

.....if you have an inch - lb torque wrench that does like 30-100 in-lb range, this is a good time to adjust your bands....the procedure is simple, but demands precision on your part....if not, new filter, new fluid filled to proper level, see where your at before you take it into a tranny shop to get the bands adjusted & the line pressure tested.

[mudkicker715]

No to the t/c drain