Replacing window channel....any tips?

[Factory53]

Hey all...hope everyone had a very rad summer.

I had to replace the power window cable for my driver side front door and while I had the panel off I started pulling the broken and dried up window channel. But that was about 1 month ago I started that and have been putting it off because of how much of a pain the old channel is to get out.

Does anyone have any tips that make it easier...I'm also worried about the new channel going in being a pain, so I guess I'm looking for tips to both...removing the old and then pushing in the new.

Is there a simple way to get the window out? Or is that just asking for trouble.

Any advice is greatly appreciated...i've done little driving because I don't want the window to rattle around and break and I'm missing driving it.

Cheers everyone! 

Also...the power window cable swap was a super simple replacement from a 1977 - 1980 Cadillace/Buick/Olds 6 way power seat assembly. It came with 4 cables but it was the longest one I was after...I know some people use a shorter one then move the motor forward.

I just took 1/2" (or so) off the sheathing of the longest cable and reassembled the cable and installed it like it was original. I just used the OEM cable sheathing as the guide for how much I needed to cut off the replacement and it went right together and I had power windows again...

Hope that helps someone..

[MIPS]

I bought the kit from AMClives which is very expensive but also very nice and is pre-trimmed to fit.

I removed the inner door panelling and raised the window up to get access to the lowest parts of the channel, then just started picking out what I could because it was all hard as a rock. There is an extra metal guide piece that can be removed and it does help later.
When installing the new channel I did not remove the glass. Instead I got a few feet of telephone wire and strung it off one end of the new channel, then greased the backside for the first foot or so so the channeling could be pulled down through the window track, slid it down the gap and using the wire from below pulled the channel into position. The corners are pre-trimmed so you'll know when you've got more to pull or you have gone too far.

I also bought the felt bits for the inside and outside of the door. The outside piece clips in. The inside piece is hog ringed to the door panel and I could not get it to tightly go back together with new rings. I went back with very shallow black pop rivets.

[Factory53]

Thanks Mips...sorry for the late reply...haven't touched the door in so long but have to get it all buttoned up this weekend.

Great idea on the grease and the wire....I'm going that route for sure.

I finally got the remaining bits of old channel out and you are right...you just have to pick away at it. Left a pint of blood behind after slicing my hands up a bunch but its all out.

Stoked to get this thing done for the winter. Not sure I'll do the 3 other doors until Spring though...only because this job is not that fun to do.

Cheers and thanks again.

[MIPS]

I'm planning to do my rear window seals next year. I have a replacement gasket for the hatch but unlike the window channels that is glued in.

[Factory53]

Let me know how the rear hatch gasket went...I've got one too and haven't replaced it yet. I'm trying to chase down the leaks in either my roof rack mounts, roof chrome strips and/or the hinges for the hatch. I'm betting its the hingest..those gaskets look to be very dried and shrunk.

Cheers!