Removing rear case of Transfer case

[AMC1]

I've got to replace the gasket between the rear & front case. I lowered it 4-1/2" & got all bolts out except one. Someone in- the- know will know which one. It's all original & the one about 11'o'clock & the opposite side has the bracket for the shift motor. This bolt is round & has raised grooves. I've never seen one before. 11 mm is close & 6 points works better than 12 but they strip. I tried a small vice grips which also strips. The only thing I can do is lower the TC all the way down & use a bigger vice grips. I however love heat in these cases.  I use hand held propane / map gas about 2300 degrees I believe. My question is how much heat can aluminum take from propane etc. & not distort the aluminum.

[carnuck]

Can't recall what temp the AL warps at but it turns into a puddle @5,000F I recall. 7/16" 12 point should work.

[eaglefreek]

Do yourself a favor and pull the case out so you can stand it on end when pulling the rear half of the case off. Yes it should be a 12 point 7/16. It's probably Loctited so a little heat will help.

[mudkicker715]

it will fight all the way off, but is doable with a 7/16 12 pt.

[AMC1]

Thanks for the advice. I already tried 7/16 - 12 & it just spun on it. 11 mm is the same as 7/16 & it fit good but it was  a 6 point. I bought a 12 point anyway & of course it spun also. No way do I want to pull the TC out - I'll never get it back in. One back surgery was enough. I actually did this job a few years ago on my other Eagle. I pulled it half-way out & realized I'd never get it back in. That Eagle has a hex. bolt so I know that was worked on before. When it rains it pours. To make matters worse my Gremlin is leaking oil from the pan badly. I think the very first day of cold weather had something to do with it. I just got through tightening 23 bolts of the bolts on it. I'm going out now to start it & see if I at least slowed it down.  That'll  be a major job if I can hold off till Spring.

[mudkicker715]

I was able to pound some kind of a socket onto it. It fit tight.
Did you see this.

http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=36885.0

[carnuck]

Unless you are just taking off the tailstock, you will have a TON of needle bearings go flying when you undo the case halves.

[mudkicker715]

I am in agreement with carnuck. Most likely why a retard stops here bolt was pu on. Unless it is positioned as i did on a bench. You might destroy your case. So best bet pull it use care.

[AMC1]

You guys are beginning to scare me. It's been a couple of years since I pulled the rear retainer & rear case on the other Eagle but as I recall the alignment dowels were on the front case & the matching holes on the rear. My intention this time is to leave the rear retainer on (not leaking) & pull it as a unit. I remember I used 2 screwdrivers but didn't really have any problems. But you're right - I don't want to see any needle bearings. Maybe I could force a socket on it but maybe I can also file it down to 3/8 & put an open-end wrench on it.

[AMC1]

I should have taken the advice & pulled the TC & stop all this aggravation. Now one of the bolts holding the shift motor bracket to the Adapter won't come off after a week of trying. I'll have to pull the TC & the Adapter as a one piece unit. I see there are 6 bolts holding the Adapter to the Trans. I've never pulled either before. Is there anything I should be aware of taking it off as a unit rather than just the TC alone. Is it more or less a hollow piece just for aligning the bolt patterns of the two? Will I have to pry the Adapter out of there. I've got a motorcycle jack that should serve as a trans. jack & a patient lift on wheels as an engine hoist so that will help.