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Author Topic: Auto to manual cont.  (Read 5902 times)

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Offline Seagulls n Eagle

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Auto to manual cont.
« on: December 15, 2014, 09:52:26 PM »
Greetings everyone,

Thanks to all for the great help. I have done research, had input from the great folks here and I'm still a bit overwhelmed.  :banghead: I've been preparing my eagle for a transmission removal. I'm just about ready to go. And I would really prefer to do a swap from auto to manual.

I have;  pedals, clutch master cylinder, clutch reservoir,

I have available to buy; a t-5, ax-15, nsg370, bellhousings flywheel

So....Im not able to so much in the way of fabricating and time is of the essence.

The t-5 was a factory install so I'm assuming with a rear crossmember mount it should be able to be a bolt in.


How much work is required to the rear crossmember for the ax-15?

One of my sources for a t-5 is out of a AMC 2.5 4-cylinder. Is there a differance between the
4-cylinder t-5 and the 6 cylinder t-5?

I think the nsg370 is past my ability to compete quickly. That leaves me with the t-5 and the ax-15
And I really think it's going to have to be a t-5.

Any input will be greatly appriciated
Thanks
"Whether you think you can or  think you can't ....
your right"
Henry Ford

Offline Seagulls n Eagle

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2014, 10:12:48 PM »
Forgive me, I just found out that the t-5 was used for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder.
I do remember that 5th gear might be different between the two but also it's not that difficult to replace
"Whether you think you can or  think you can't ....
your right"
Henry Ford

Offline mudkicker715

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2014, 09:14:27 AM »
You missed the clutch slave. Also when i converted one of mine, i was given a wrong size clutch kit. Than the right one arrived but i still had to play around to get a correct pilot bushing.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2014, 10:12:31 AM by mudkicker715 »



Manitowoc WI

Offline carnuck

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2014, 01:45:38 PM »
You can swap the pedals ahead of time if you are daily driving the car. (I drove my Comanche 2 months with the clutch pedal still there after the auto swap)

4 cyl and 6 cyl bells are different patterned, I would do the AX-15 with external slave or integral slave as a last ditch/simplicity. The bell and trans input sleeve are different from integral slave (which is prone to failure, requiring transmission removal to fix)

I used a flat plate from the crossmember to the trans in my J10 when I swapped the dead T5 for an AX-15.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2014, 01:50:35 PM by carnuck »
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline captspillane

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2014, 06:10:36 PM »
Avoid V8 transmission choices like the T10. Some AMC V8s had 8" instead of 6" bellhousings. They are only four speeds, no five speed options.

The Iron Duke "151" four cylinder used the same transmission as the 258, only the bell itself was different. That was the base engine and very common in SX4s and Kammbacks. Its very rare in Wagons or Sedans. Even more rare is the AMC "150" four cylinder that came around midway through 1983. I've seen one SX4 with it in person out of hundreds of Eagles that went through the enormous scrapyard near me. If you're talking about Jeep Cherokees, those are a different set of engines over the years entirely and the only ones to look at are 4.0L Cherokees. Avoid anything else.

I would avoid T5s because your driveshaft is the automatic length one. The simplest and cheapest way to convert yours is a early style AX15 from a 1992 Jeep Cherokee. The later style AX15, NV3550, and NSG370 are still just about the same amount of work except more expense at the slave cylinder.

The clutch masters and slaves can be a little different bores, which effects the length of the throw of your pedal, but all of them work with each other. I have mix and matched those without much of a problem. If Rockauto says one isn't in stock, then the other usually is, and the stock comes and goes often. They are still being made in limited runs.
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline Seagulls n Eagle

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2014, 02:00:12 PM »
That's  is great great info! Captspillane  Thanks. I gotta start a build thread. Because I'm starting to get into it.
I have most of the parts to get going.


I only have a minute but wanted to check in.
I'm going to pick up the engine and drive line from a 1995 jeep Cherokee.
My immediate plans are for the auto to manual swap, I'm considering putting the 4.0 head on because Im going to have to pull the intake/exhaust  manifolds anyway to replace a cracked exhaust  manifold.

Plans for down the road would be to build a Carbureted stroker with the 4.0.

So, what I would like to do is install a np229 behind the ax15 but it's not necessary.
I'm not sure what's coming with engine and transmission.

So, I'm sure ill have more questions, thanks to all for their help.

I've gotten mixed info on weather the 1995 Cherokee bell housing will fit, I believe it will
Also mixed info on weather a np129 or np229 will fit. The TC decision will be a fun and interesting one,
If I'm going to have to do exhaust, and drive shaft work ill have to figure the best TC to go in. So many choices!!
Such fun!! It's cold out but I'm moving the car from outside to in. I don't really have much in the way of hear but at least ill be out of the weather.

I thought I read that it was the older Cherokees 93 and up that had the external, less problematic slave cylinder.

Why would post 1992 Cherokee be more expensive in the salve cylinder area? Is it the input sleeve problem that carnuck mentioned!

The post 1992 ax15 is the external slave correct?

Im waiting on a clutch master from summit, but haven't seen it yet.

Ill check rockauto because I would like a back up.


Fun fun fun, it's really great to be turning wrenches on something fun.


"Whether you think you can or  think you can't ....
your right"
Henry Ford

Offline carnuck

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2014, 03:34:26 PM »
That's  is great great info! Captspillane  Thanks. I gotta start a build thread. Because I'm starting to get into it.
I have most of the parts to get going.


I only have a minute but wanted to check in.
I'm going to pick up the engine and drive line from a 1995 jeep Cherokee.
My immediate plans are for the auto to manual swap, I'm considering putting the 4.0 head on because Im going to have to pull the intake/exhaust  manifolds anyway to replace a cracked exhaust  manifold.

Plans for down the road would be to build a Carbureted stroker with the 4.0.

Why not EFI?
Quote

So, what I would like to do is install a np229 behind the ax15 but it's not necessary.


If you get a 242, I would go with that. You need a 1" thick clocking ring for the 229 to AX-15 or AW4
Quote

I'm not sure what's coming with engine and transmission.

So, I'm sure ill have more questions, thanks to all for their help.

I've gotten mixed info on weather the 1995 Cherokee bell housing will fit, I believe it will


4.0 is the same bell pattern as post '71 258 or 232
Quote

Also mixed info on weather a np129 or np229 will fit. The TC decision will be a fun and interesting one,
If I'm going to have to do exhaust, and drive shaft work ill have to figure the best TC to go in. So many choices!!
Such fun!! It's cold out but I'm moving the car from outside to in. I don't really have much in the way of hear but at least ill be out of the weather.

I thought I read that it was the older Cherokees 93 and up that had the external, less problematic slave cylinder.

Why would post 1992 Cherokee be more expensive in the salve cylinder area? Is it the input sleeve problem that carnuck mentioned!

The post 1992 ax15 is the external slave correct?


post '96 is external.  It's integral before that and MUCH more expensive to repalce as well as stupidly designed.
Quote

Im waiting on a clutch master from summit, but haven't seen it yet.

Ill check rockauto because I would like a back up.


Fun fun fun, it's really great to be turning wrenches on something fun.



AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline Seagulls n Eagle

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2014, 09:48:49 PM »
Hi carnuck. I appriciate the info. In not going the EFI route (yet) I'm planning the built in stages. I need to get it on the road as soon as I can at the moment and have bitten off a bunch. I'm still wavering on the head swap.

I'm not ready for the EFI but might be by the time I finish with the stroker.

So I'm guessing (haven't picked up the engine transmission and transfercase yet) that there is going to be a 231 TC behind the ax15 in a 1995 jeep Cherokee. It's comming with the drive shafts.

He is my current discussions I'm pondering and am looking for the route that provides the best options for the future, or a fast and easy answer for now.

Which transfer case?

231 (cuse it on the transmission now) no spacer.

229 (have one rebuilt and clocked for the speedo)

Or a 129

I'm assuming that they all need drive shaft work to install the ax15 in an eagle.
Is this correct?

Thanks again
"Whether you think you can or  think you can't ....
your right"
Henry Ford

Offline carnuck

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Re: Auto to manual cont.
« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2014, 01:21:03 AM »
Hi carnuck. I appriciate the info. In not going the EFI route (yet) I'm planning the built in stages. I need to get it on the road as soon as I can at the moment and have bitten off a bunch. I'm still wavering on the head swap.

Is the 4.0L bad? I would swap the motor, trans and tcase and put a carb intake on.
Quote

I'm not ready for the EFI but might be by the time I finish with the stroker.

So I'm guessing (haven't picked up the engine transmission and transfercase yet) that there is going to be a 231 TC behind the ax15 in a 1995 jeep Cherokee. It's comming with the drive shafts.

He is my current discussions I'm pondering and am looking for the route that provides the best options for the future, or a fast and easy answer for now.

Which transfer case?

231 (cuse it on the transmission now) no spacer.

229 (have one rebuilt and clocked for the speedo)

Or a 129

I'm assuming that they all need drive shaft work to install the ax15 in an eagle.
Is this correct?

Thanks again

Front shaft should work with the yoke swapped.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

 

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