Front end lift

[vangremlin]

I'm thinking of doing about a 1" lift on my coupe using the coil spring spacers and shackles to eliminate a slight rubbing problem I'm having up front.  I read Gil's write up and he said you need to remove the lower control arm.  I haven't messed with Eagle coil springs in the past but have removed springs on other cars.  I don't understand the need to remove the lower control arm.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  Thanks.

[eaglebeek]

From the TSM:
Remove shocks and mounting brackets;
Remove lower spring seat pivot bolt retaining nuts;
Install spring compressor and compress the spring about 1 inch;
Raise the front of the car until the control arms are free of the lower spring seat;
Remove wheel;
Pull lower spring seat away from the car;
Release spring compressor.

Nothing is said about the lower control arm. The only reason I can think of that the lower arm needs to be removed would be to allow room for some spring compressors.

[vangremlin]

Thanks Eaglebeek.  In re-reading Gil's How-To, I think he removes a lot of parts and pieces to rebuild things (new bearings, bushings, ball joints) while he is also doing this job. 

I can't say I'll do it exactly like the TSM though.  "Removing the wheel" is the fifth step.  I can't imagine trying to get in there and install the spring compressor with the wheel still in place - no room!!   Maybe I can find some out of work leprechauns now that St Patrick's day is behind us!

[eaglebeek]

I can't say I'll do it exactly like the TSM though.  "Removing the wheel" is the fifth step.  I can't imagine trying to get in there and install the spring compressor with the wheel still in place - no room!!   Maybe I can find some out of work leprechauns now that St Patrick's day is behind us!

Neither can I. I would think one could jack up the front end and set stands/blocks under the lower control arms, then take off the wheel(s).  The wheelhouse is a tight fit even for leprechauns.

[attemptnumber2]

i found it once where someone said i could use javelin front coils to lift an eagle 2". before shelling out cash for random coils can someone confirm the year/engine javelin that these need to come from? anyone found a good leaf spring replacement? i read the post about the new ones that drop after a month. mine are wore out. possibly jeep CJ models that would be the same length/width/~spring rate

[captspillane]

Buy "Moog 3156" by sticking that part number into Rockauto. They cost about $70 for a pair.

"2 inch lift" is misleading. If it lifts your car 2 inches its because your car was sitting an inch and a half less than factory height. Just look at the bumper above your lower control arm. If its touching the control arm you're sitting higher than the arm should ever travel. If the space is really big you risk CV shaft damage and you're sitting an inch too high. Smack dab a little below the middle is perfect and where you'll be with the 3156. The thicker wire stock should keep it there longer than the original springs held up.

"Javelin Coils" is misleading. Basically there are three different thicknesses of coil springs used. Eagles had the middle thickness (except 4 cyl without AC that had the smallest size). Most Javelins had the thickest. Some Gremlins and Hornets got them too. Long story short I posted a summary of all the differerent ones I found and if you look you'll find all the information you'd ever want to know if you're curious.

[attemptnumber2]

My 235/75 15's rub pretty bad so I am assuming my car is sagging quite a bit.

[captspillane]

235s will rub the inside of the fender flares. I've modified most of mine to stick inward less and then they clear just fine.

[attemptnumber2]

I yanked the flares off. I am hitting on the rocker. I just bought 20 sets of springs. Check parts for sale for more info on the MOOG 3156 springs

[eaglefreek]

I've got 225/75/15's and had to a bit of trimming including some metal. I have no idea how some fit 235's without cutting a bunch.

[captspillane]

The rocker protrudes forward like a spike. I slice the protrusion off carefully so that there is a flap of metal that I then pound back and seal the end of the rocker with. It only knocks it back a small amount. The fender still has all its mounting bolts in place.

Sometimes if your tire isn't centered quite right with the strut rod  it will rub the fender up front, and that can get reworked a little bit and the support that spans to the subframe can get moved up an inch to increase the opening just enough.

I dislike the look of an Eagle without its fender flares so the goal was always to eliminate the rub spots without actually changing the exterior at all. All the modification happens inside the fender flare.

[twoslowinwyo]

found this on a machining forum, looks interesting. LAZ
http://highangledriveline.com/

[carnuck]

I had to take the mudflaps off and tip the bottom 2 inches front and back due to "sloppy" strut rod bushings. Rear touched until I added a leaf (and XJ 8.25 rear) but they were okay with the air ride shocks.