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  • June 16, 2024, 02:46:23 AM

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Author Topic: Rear Axle/Hub  (Read 4562 times)

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Offline Vern Christy

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Rear Axle/Hub
« on: June 27, 2011, 10:10:43 PM »
I don't see a specific, Parts Wanted Section, so here goes. My recent purchase is in dire need of R/side Rear Axle & Hub. Typical failure.
 Any leads or help is greatly appreciated. I would prefer source in the Great White North. Shipping/Border issues, ya know! I am located in Eastern Ontario.
 Thanks Guys & Gals.
Vern Christy
Motorsport 1320
14 Lake St. #4
Picton On.
K0K 2T0

Offline jim

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2011, 10:45:52 PM »
« Last Edit: May 08, 2019, 05:28:06 PM by vangremlin »
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
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What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
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83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
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Offline Jim80470

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2013, 12:05:47 AM »
Hey There,
   I realize this post is going on two years old, but in case some one perusing the sight wanders to it to pick up some info, that is why Im post a reply now anyway.
   I had the same issue with an 82 SX4. Snapped the rear inner shaft at the hub..... :-P Locating a 27 spline set up was virtually impossible. The prices for similar replacements in model 20 rear was about $400 bucks. For JUST the axle and hub! I researched and found the best bang for the buck (and a bit more work, but WORTH IT). Get rid of the AMC Model 15 rear (cousin of the D35C)! An entire Jeep XJ Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 or D44 rea differential will swap in. They are way more stout and parts readily avalible for servicing. I got a 8.25 rear from a 92 for $150. They are all over. D44's harder to find. The diff I got was open, so I put a lock-right in it while it was on the bench. New outter bearings and seals as well just because.
     The install: You do need to switch the shock mounts around, and reverse the brakeline orientation so the brass union lines up. The yolk is the same size as the AMC drive shaft u-joints.....you just need to either get a Cherokee U-joint or take off the inner clips on the yolk caps.
      The XJ axles are also larger diameter (3") and you'll need new U-bolts and spring plates. That will sit the car up in the rear an extra inch too :-). Wheel bolt pattern and width are the same as the AMC. 
       All in all, I am super happy with the stronger axle and lower gears it came with (need to change the front). The locker is an awesome addition as well. I did a 229 T-Case conversion last year, and ran the Eagle over Black Bear Pass in Colorado. It was SWEET! So I am stoked for the front to be regeared, have low range, a locker and mild lift, with that Chrysler 8.25 rear. [[Im not so worried about the c-clips because of the way the lock-right encapsulates them when assembled. ]]]
The AMC rear axles are a known weak point and this is an awesome fix!
I still have the remains of the old axle with 2.72 gears near Denver if anyone needs it.
 

Offline carnuck

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2013, 01:46:08 AM »
The non-C clip D35 is no slouch either. (I've killed the pinion bearing but not the shafts)  What's really RARE to find is a '86/87 Comanche Model 20 (Most are D35) I wanted one for my Comanche and nearly bought one, but they had sold the axle from one side and I couldn't find one to even get custom replacements made (Dutchman does a match up and full float setup for $450)
   Comanche spring mounts are offset by 1.5" each side from Eagle/XJ setup.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline SpreadEagle

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2013, 09:03:17 PM »
Being I have a rear bearing going out this peaks my interest but I don't do any hard offroading. would a swap like this be cost and time effective?  I have new rear springs. Change the bushings and work that way? easier than changing a bearing?
'81 Kammback
'81 SX/4(Parts)

Offline TheWraith

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2013, 07:24:46 AM »
I cannot recommend a d35 to anyone as they are, for lack of a better word, junk.  I'm sure they'll live a long and happy life in a light weight car that never leaves the hard ball.  But if you ever intend to go off road and lean on it a little, avoid a d35 axle at all cost.  The axle that never should had been built.  To compound the issue, d30 is a much stronger axle, which throws out the Dana axle numbering system all together.  One would think a d35 would be stronger then a d30 since its nomenclature is higher numerically.  Just not the case.

Just wanted to mention this for those that don't know.  Hope I haven't offended anyone that is running a d35.  I will agree it is a little better the a Model 20 or any variant due to, if nothing else, ease of finding replacement parts.  The junkyards are full of spare d35 axle shafts and housings.
I am what Willis was talking about.

Offline carnuck

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2013, 04:15:13 PM »
CJ model 20 is weak (2 piece hubs AND thin tubes that aren't welded in) One from an FSJ or MJ is much stronger (technical nomenclature says they are Model 21) The D35 is rated higher than D30 for strength, but the D35 C clip messes that up.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline SpreadEagle

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2013, 05:03:54 PM »
CJ model 20 is weak (2 piece hubs AND thin tubes that aren't welded in) One from an FSJ or MJ is much stronger (technical nomenclature says they are Model 21) The D35 is rated higher than D30 for strength, but the D35 C clip messes that up.
FSJ like 70s-80s? I have,a local listing with axels may check gearing. Disk breaks would be nice though.
'81 Kammback
'81 SX/4(Parts)

Offline carnuck

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Re: Rear Axle/Hub
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2013, 05:05:29 PM »
'80 up to about '88 is M20 rear (6 lug pattern though)
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

 

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