Dead Eagle

[MudPuppy]

Ok, this may seem dumb but I am stumped. Have searched the site but since the last great delete nothing recently posted applies.
New battery and new solenoid but still no start. When trying to start a clicking/ticking is coming from the solenoid. Checked to make sure all connections are secure. Checked the starter just to be safe, nothing loose. What else should I look at?

It done this before a little over 2 years ago - new starter and solenoid and she fired right up. But this time no such luck. Seems like 2 years on a battery and solenoid is all I get. What would possibly be causing this?

Also, before I tear into a brake job (I will be checking and replacing these anyways). I am curious if something else might be causing this.
When applying the brake, the pedal goes all the way to the floor very slow to stop (spongy and ineffective, you do stop it just takes forever). Fluid level is good. No brake squealing at low speeds, not sure at high speeds (didn't want to go that fast to find out). Hoping it is just air in the hydraulic system. Will find out once new brakes are installed and bled. But want to ask this just in case I might be overlooking something else. Could this be a master cylinder issue? Or something else?

[MudPuppy]

Nope, didn't think to check the engine ground. Will check that next.

Pumping the brake pedal makes the pedal stiffer but still gives the same results.

[MudPuppy]

Cleaned all connections (battery cables, lines running to and from solenoid, ground to engine, and starter).
Hit starter while another tried starting.
Still doing the same thing.

Put it in neutral and tried to start....no clicking, but no start.
Put it back into park and now it's not clicking but still not starting either.

[MudPuppy]

Nope, no meters. It's just a couple of months old at the most lol though nothing surprises me anymore. All lights work, though they do dim when trying to start. Will test it by jumping though.

[MudPuppy]

Same clicking when being jumped by the bf's Sentra. Though the last time the Eagle needed a jump, his Sentra apparently wasn't enough, it took his dad's F250 (for some reason) before the Eagle fired up.

[eaglefreek]

You need to check your voltage with a volt meter and go from there. Solenoids rarely go out but they do. When you are buying new starters and alternators, I assume you mean rebuilt. Unfortunately rebuilt alternators from the parts stores just don't seem to last very long.
#1 Check voltage at battery. Fully charged battery should be 12.6-12.8. If voltage is lower put a battery charger on it over night.
#2 Check all connections. At battery, body ground from engine to firewall, engine ground from - battery to engine.
#3 If everything else checks out, try jumping the solenoid. Make sure vehicle is in park, turn key to run position and take a pair of pliers and jump power from the 2 large studs on the solenoid. From the one going to the battery to the one going to the starter. This will bypass your solenoid. If the starter turns and car starts, you have a bad solenoid or connection from your ignition switch to solenoid. If not it's probably your starter.


Since it starts with a jump I suspect a charging problem. After you get it started after a jump or preferably after charging the battery overnight, check the voltage at the battery. It should be 13.8 - 14.4v. If not you have a charging problem.

[MudPuppy]

Yup, turned out to be the 2 month old battery (even though all lights were bright and everything else was working properly). Looks like I will be returning this battery back to Autozone. At least it was just that and nothing more serious I suppose...though it makes me look stupid.

[mudkicker715]

I have asked stupid before. A second shot always helps.. Just wondering why you go through batts so often.

[MudPuppy]

I have asked stupid before. A second shot always helps.. Just wondering why you go through batts so often.

Not sure why I go through so many, have been wondering that myself. Back in Feb 2007 the PO just put a fresh battery on it (along with cables). Had to get another one in May 2009, then this one went bad in April 2011, returned it since it was still under the 2 year warranty. So this is the replacement on the Eagle now, the one that is dead (sorry, looks like I lied, guess it isn't 2 months old. More like 4 months old.). Who knows, maybe this was just a defective battery. But this time around the Eagle (and this battery) has done more sitting than it has before. So the battery really hasn't been used much.
If this happens one more time I am going to look into it further to see what might be causing this.
I get great battery life on all my other drivable cars - Cruiser's battery is factory so it's 6 years old and still going strong, the truck's is at least 7 years old (may be older since I inherited it from my father) and it is just now showing signs of needing to be replaced soon.
Even at 2 years (which seems to be the most I get from the Eagles battery) seems to not be quite right.

[MudPuppy]

Don't know why you would think you're stupid. 
No one would automatically think a two month old battery would be bad. Takes a little troubleshooting to find out, which you did. Smart!!

Yea, lol at least all of my connections are clean now too.
I lied a bit though, looks like the battery is 4 months old not 2 like I was initially thinking but still all the same. Wouldn't have thought even a 4 month old battery would go bad, plus the Eagle has done more sitting than driving lately so the battery wasn't technically used much either.

[xtcinoz]

Have you tried to start your car in Neutral? Or checked the neutral safety switch, or it's connection?
If it is disconnected it wont start, except when jumping (as described by Eaglefreak), I have  to start mine in Neutral because Park is worn down enough that the switch isn't engaged. The wire to the neutral safety switch can be pulled out when moving the harness around.
Good Luck to ya, X...

[MudPuppy]

It was the 4 month old battery, apparently it went bad. But thanks xtcinoz.
Strong battery put on and she fired right up.
And thanks to everyone else for all the advice. 

[mudkicker715]

A 4 month sit should not matter to a battery unless there is a drain. Eben than it should take a charge and,be back to normal.

[MudPuppy]

yea, 4 months isn't right at all. Maybe it was a defective battery though. And at least it is still under warranty. But this next battery will be the test I guess. If it doesn't last then I am suspecting another culprit at hand. God I hope not. No telling what and where it could be. Any usual suspects I should look at when/if I have to start hunting down the gremlin that likes my battery juices so much?

[eaglefreek]

Make sure you put a voltmeter to the new battery while the car is running and make sure it is charging properly. Also here's a way to help find a short.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjXt7_gusgM&feature=player_embedded#!