My information on this was that originally Eagles had permanent 4WD, then they added SelectDrive for economy which added actuators at the transfer case and the front diff. This is what they call a disconnect axle.
Put a camera under the car you will see that in 2WD the front propeller shaft isn't spinning. The actuators are interlocked, so you have to stop the car and switch modes and let the diff engage/disengage before it will actuate the transfer case. I've found several actuators now from this era where the diff's actuator lightly seizes and it disables everything.
Then they switched to only one actuator at the transfer case so you could switch on the go but the front diff is always engaged.
I've had my vehicle towed several times (which isn't a proud thing to say) and even with the SelectDrive switched to 2WD they have to put dolly wheels under the rears because even if you leave the transmission in neutral and the TC disengaged there's a risk or ruining your viscous coupling.
I also keep seeing people mention the Right rear axle problem, can someone explain what that is? and how to do a preventative fix, or tell if someone's already fixed it. My eagle is going on a 12000 mile roadtrip. I don't want it to happen at the worst possible time.
You mean the axle snapping at the wheel hub?
I had that happen last year. AMC 35 axle shafts are now out of production and the only good and safe fix is to replace the axle entirely with a Dana 35, which isn't a cheap solution. If you have another AMC 35 available, steal the symmetrical axle shaft out of the drivers side and in theory, you are less likely to have the shaft snap again. I don't entirely trust this solution myself.
I still can't find an official bulletin, when it started happening or when it was remedied but it seems to be a combination of an incorrectly factory torqued axle nut and I don't know if I stripped my splines out before it broke away completely but the splines in the hub were really shallow. It felt like the hubs originally didn't have splines and when the shaft and hub were combined and torqued the hardened shaft would cut its own splines. I guess that works, but if you overtorque the nut you will stress the shaft in the hub and if the hub ever slips on the splines you'll introduce radial stress on the already stressed area.
I can't think of a lot you can do once the damage is done. You could try cutting a keyway to reinforce against the hub wandering in the splines and retorque the nut a little lower. If you just weld the hub to the shaft you can't reach the bearings or shaft retainer. If you are going to pop the hub off to inspect I guess inspect the splines, look for torque yielding on the first three inches of the shaft and any obvious cracks.
Edited: I just double checked and the shaft IS already keyed and it STILL sheared. Yeah. I can't recommend anything else. There's a reason Dana changed it.