Power door locks and door card removal

[charlie D]

New to the Eagle and this forum. I have an 86 wagon with power door locks. They do not work, I can hear the click, but nothing engages. Additionally, I can lock manually, but it is very, very stiff. If nothing else, I want them to be easier to work manually. Is there anything tricky about removing the interior door cards, front and rear? Also drivers side window only goes down to about 2" above opening. Passenger side OK. Is that normal or should I look to change the position of the stop while I have access.Thanks
Charlie D

[Mitch]

Door panels are easy to remove. There are several screws around the outside edge of the panel, two screws holding the door handle cup,(hold the handle in the open position to remove the cup), four screws holding the armrest, (two vertical holding the trim and two big ones holding the rest to the door that will be revealed when the trim is removed), and one screw holding the window crank handle, [unless it has electric windows, in which case simply remove the screws holding the trim around the switch(es), or unplug the wires as you are removing the panel]. When all is removed lift the panel up off the door frame. Other than that, if it has mirror remotes they are held on with a clip on the back side of the panel. Hope I didn't forget anything. Oh, if there are speakers in the door panels you can probably just remove the wires leaving them intact.

Here's a thread where the owner dealt with the issue you're having.

http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=37053.msg300544#msg300544

The window should go all the way down.

[AMC of Houston]

I'm fixing the same lock issue on my '85 right now.  Its simply the latch assemblies being gunked up with 35-year-old dried grease.  After removing the latch assemblies from the door, I soaked them for a day or two in my solvent vat (scrubbing them out best as possible with a toothbrush), then put them in my carb cleaner vat for about 6 hours.  After rinsing out the carb cleaner and blasting them out with Brake Clean they looked like new.  I then regreased with white silicone grease and reinstalled.

Also gutted the doors and replaced the window frame seals and greased up the rollers/tracks where needed - did that so I could install a set of vent shades I had on the shelf (and the old seals were way rotten - was like chiseling out ceramic tile!).

One other note - do not buy those replacement aftermarket lock actuators - they are 100% crap.  Not enough power to unlock a brand new latch.

[Run-AMC]

Welcome to the forum!

Lol I bought aftermarket lock actuators.

[AMC of Houston]

Well; good luck with them!   I tried 2 (to be sure the first one wasn't a defective), then immediately returned them for a refund.   Funny; the "motor-looking" silver thing on the aftermarket units is just a decorative cap to make you think there is a decent-sized motor under it!

[charlie D]

Thanks guys for the responses. Will let you know how it goes.
Charlie D

[charlie D]

Just realized I never followed up on this. George, AMC of Houston, was correct. Actuators just gunked up, cleaned and lubed and then they worked fine. Reason driver's window only went down part way was door speaker had fallen down and was blocking the actuator. Both door speakers ratty, so they were replaced.
Thanks for the advice!
Charlie D

[AMC of Houston]

Glad you got it fixed with minimal drama!!