News: Putting FUN and FRIENDLINESS, FIRST into owning and learning about AMC small bodied cars, primarily Eagles, Spirits and Concords as well as vehicles built in AMC's Mexican subsidiary, VAM.

The AMC Eaglepedia can now be accessed using the buttons found below  This is a comprehensive ever growing archive of information, tips, diagrams, manuals, etc. for the AMC Eagle and other small bodied AMC cars. 

Also a button is now available for our Face Book Group page.


Welcome to the AMC Eagles Nest.  A new site under "old" management -- so welcome to your new home for everything related to AMC Eagles, Spirits and Concords along with opportunities to interact with other AMC'ers.  This site will soon be evolving to look different than it has and we will be incorporating new features we hope you will find useful, entertaining and expand your AMC horizons.

You can now promote your topics at your favorite social media site by clicking on the appropriate icon (top upper right of the page) while viewing the topic you wish to promote.


  • November 24, 2024, 08:22:31 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: Output shaft seal replacement.  (Read 5250 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline lapoltba

  • Eagle DL
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
  • Thumbs Up 14
Output shaft seal replacement.
« on: January 30, 2013, 05:54:35 PM »
I just put the trans &TC back in my eagle and found the front output shaft seal leaking.  I've got the yoke off but the seal is a pain in the rear to remove.  If it's anything like the input shaft on the trans, it's got red lock-tite slathered on it.  I'm not keen on using a torch with all the oil around though.

Anyone got any suggestions?  Are the double hook type seal pullers effective on these?  A screwdriver isn't going to cut it on this one i'm afraid.

Offline carguy87

  • Eagle DL
  • ***
  • Posts: 197
  • Thumbs Up 11
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2013, 07:14:57 PM »
Those double hook seal puller work awesome on all of these seals.  Though it would have been easier out of the car, lol.

Offline lapoltba

  • Eagle DL
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
  • Thumbs Up 14
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2013, 07:17:54 PM »
Alright, I'll have to obtain one then...  I ripped most of the rubber out already, it was hard as a rock.  How exactly are those supposed to work?  Do they hook onto the metal cup behind the seal?  I felt around with my pinky finger and couldn't feel a step where the seal meets the case.

There is a surprising amount of room with the exhaust, drive shafts, and crossmember out of the way.  The trans and TC are supported on a jack at the moment and a little bit lower than normal.  I've got good access.

Offline TheWraith

  • Eagle
  • **
  • Posts: 144
  • Thumbs Up 8
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2013, 07:12:46 AM »
... I've got the yoke off but the seal is a pain in the rear to remove....

No.  It's a pain in the front!  Because it's a front seal...get it?  ;D  Sorry, couldn't resist.  That was like a slow pitch down the middle.  And 'yes', I'm easily entertained.

...Are the double hook type seal pullers effective on these?...

Yes, they're great.  Pretty cheap too.  This is one tool every DIY home mechanic should have in their tool box.  Take your time with it.  I've removed seals that were really in there.  If yours is difficult to remove, and it sounds like it is, the seal puller might tear a hole in the metal instead of removing the seal as the points are sharp.  Just work your way around it, take your time and you'll get it.

Be careful with it on that jack.  You might consider wrapping a piece of chain around it as a backup safety should it come off the jack.
I am what Willis was talking about.

Offline lapoltba

  • Eagle DL
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
  • Thumbs Up 14
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2013, 01:06:29 PM »
Thank you for that bit of comic relief... It's been an interesting morning.  We didn't have power at work until around noon and now I get to play catch up here.

How exactly are those pullers supposed to work?  If they are intended to grab the rubber, there's no way it will work for me.  The rubber is so dry and cracked it won't be able to pull the steel sleeve out of the case.  I'm hoping there is a lip behind the seal that I can grab with the tool.

*Edit*

nevermind. I read your post wrong.... Punch a hole in the metal... duh, yeah i'll work it around carefully.  Also, the trans is attached to the engine securely, and it's on a transmission jack which is very secure.  There's a ratchet strap around it.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2013, 01:09:01 PM by lapoltba »

Offline lapoltba

  • Eagle DL
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
  • Thumbs Up 14
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2013, 05:20:39 PM »
Yeah.   FYI, if you go buy one of these, don't bother with the "adjustable" ones.  They suck.  I barely put any force on it and the spring loaded adjustment thing gave out.  They just use a stupid 45 degree notch to hold the head in place and keep it from rotating.  Not impressed.

Offline carnuck

  • Having a 727 means never re-doing the trans again
  • AMC Eagles Den Addicted
  • ********
  • Posts: 3451
  • Thumbs Up 89
  • Near Seattle
    • Virtual Jeep
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2013, 10:14:55 PM »
Just be careful not to scratch the bore where the seal rides. I've had to use Ultra Black silicone or Seal-All glue to fix other people's messes.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline AMC1

  • Eagle Sport
  • ****
  • Posts: 326
  • Thumbs Up 8
Re: Output shaft seal replacement.
« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2017, 06:10:25 PM »
Can someone tell me the ordering part #s for the front yoke seal & front yoke seal nut washer (good quality) for the 129 TC & maybe a supplier. I assume its not the same as the rear yoke seal. I didn't measure the rear when I had it apart but was surprised that the front nut uses a 1-1/8" socket while the rear requires a 1-5/16". A new nut would be nice but I don't see them around.
1976 gremlin
pair of 1983 SX4's sports
1946 Cushman step-thru

 

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk