1985 Eagle Sedan Fleet model project

[masternull]

badass

[TEagle85]

Now that the differentials are underway its time to think wheels. I do like the look of some basic steel race rims and plan to go with something like this.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsw-57rf375/overview/


Problem Im having is totally understanding offset vs backspacing.   

What I know:

On the car now are stock steel rims,  stock differentials. Front I like the stance so we'll leave that alone for now. The rear will be the one to figure out.
On the rear I have 1 in Spacers because the rear always looked too narrow with those flairs, Id actually like 1.5 in spacers to knock them out a tad more.

The future ford 8.8 is 1.25 narrower then the current Dana 35.   So all things the same Id need 1.75 in spacers now with stock rims on each side.

I want to get rid of the spacers and thought a deeper rim in the rear would look cool compared to the front with stock offset. 

I know the stock rims are 6in wide and all the newer rims I am looking at are 7in so I have to take that into consideration.

Tires I am running are Goodyear Wranglers  235 75 15

The idea of a wider rim I like as well.

If the stock wheel is 4.5in back spacing and I want it to stick out  2 inches (or 1.75) more would I look for 6.5in backspacing?   Or would I get 4.5in back spacing with  50.8 offset?   

Minus or plus offset?

Open to any suggestions and not afraid to beat fender corners into submission. 

[vangremlin]

This page does a pretty good job of explaining offset and backspacing.

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/0706tr-wheel-backspace-and-offset/

With regards to your last questions,  the smaller the backspace (distance from the back of the wheel to the mounting surface) the more your wheel will stick out towards the fender.  A positive offset means the mounting surface is closer to the fender, and the wheel/tire will be more tucked into the wheel well.  A negative offset means the mounting surface is closer to inside of the wheel, which will make the wheel/tire sit closer to the fender. 

Hope this helps!

[LeviBetz]

Backspace is the distance from your inner tire mount flange to the wheel hub flange. Offset is the distance from the center of the wheel to the hub flange. So more backspace will suck your wheel in more, more offset will suck your wheel in more. To convert backspace to offset subtract half the wheel width from it. Reverse for offset. So on an 8" wheel with 5" backspacing, 5"-(8"/2)=1". Often offset is measured in MM so 1"*25.4=25.4mm offset aka +25.4 (probably rounded to +25mm or et25).

[TEagle85]

This helps., thank you.  Maybe the redundancy confuses me. Do I only have to worry about one of those measurements?   

The wheels id like to get only come in 3" and 3.75" offset.   7in wide. Think I am going to try it out and figure it out from there.

As of now the front top inner tire is close to the steering knuckle and ball joint area, with a 1in wider rim bringing it closer I think I can afford to go out .75 of a inch

The rear Id use the 3" offset.


Edit: just saw there are more options for offset with the 8 in wide version. My tire will take a max width of 8in for a rim so I will explore that as a option. Im more concerned with getting the front close to how I have it. The rear I have some room.

Ill post some close fender pictures soon to show clearance. Or any of the other photos on this thread show its current set up.

[amarshall]

I have the same size tires, 235/75-15's.  I found some Jeep Cherokee rims used.  they are 15x7's and I think 4-1/2" backspacing just like the originals.  If you are not going to change your tires, I would stay away from the 8" wide rims.  It was tough enough to get the fenders cut away to clear the tires with just the 7" wide rims.  Plus, 8" wide wheels won't change the tire contact patch at all.

I think a lot of the Jeep Wrangler and Cherokee wheels were the same size, up until 2001 for the Cherokee and 2006 for the Wrangler.  You may want to look at some of those.  The base models came with steel wheels and may have a similar look to the ones you posted.

[TEagle85]

Ok, pictures soon but getting on my way with the diffs.   Front is rebuilt with 3.08, painted and ready to go in.  The rear 8.8 is rebuilt with a ford racing limited slip carrier, 3.08 gearing, slotted and drilled rotors, and a Ford mustang aluminum diff cover. 

I also just ordered a add a leaf kit from  springsandthings.com, with it is coming some coil springs for the front to match,  got the A/C versions and some new poly spring seats.   

Next step is install the add a leaf, mark and cut to length, (they are sending longer ones so I can cut to length). Once those are in I can get the rear diff under there with wheels to set pinion angle. Once happy Ill tack on the new spring perches and shock mounts I picked up from Summit.   Hoping no drive shaft length issues will arise. looks like the 8.8 is about a inch longer from center to u joint center.
Ill tack in place the spring and shock mounts, pull it all out and burn into place permanently. 

Then Ill run the hydraulic lines and then the parking brake lines,  Should be good to go? Anything I am missing?

Big question I wanted to ask is about the existing master cylinder on the new all disc brake set up.   I do have a adjustable proportioning valve installed for the rear brakes I put in a while ago just because, think it will help me out here. Eventually Id like to do the hydroboost thing but will stock stuff work for now?   


I should also note I got some slotted rotors for the front to even the performance out with the drilled and slotted rear.

Thanks guys! 
   

[eaglefreek]

On the SAS Eagle I used to own, it had a Dana 44 up front and 8.8 out back with 4 wheel disc brakes. The stock master worked great. Even with 35" tires, it stopped much better than the other 2 Eagles I have owned. I screwed around and got a different master from a Ford Econoline, if I recall, based on some Internet searching and the braking stayed the same.

[TEagle85]

Got the diffs back, did not get them in before I put 600 miles on the Eagle this weekend. Thats ok, one last hurah for the 2.35 gearing.

How does that gear mesh look?   Thats form the shop and Im not sure if I should spend the time to correct it or if its fine the way it is.

What do you guys think?

makes me more nervous about the front. He said he got it to a point where he was "happy".

Installing a motor oil heat sink behind the front bumper for a little added and needed cooling today.  Cant wait to get these diffs in.

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[derf]

I wouldn't be happy with that pattern in either picture.  But I'm a perfectionist.  I pulled a "good enough" pattern to do a 0.001" change to get it dead on when I was setting up the gears in my XJ.

[TEagle85]

Called the guy up and he already knew what I was talking about, said he spent some time on it and consulted a few differential shops and friends, supposedly not off for a 8.8. Ill take his word for it, and bring it back if I get some noise.

put about 600 miles on this weekend, ran like a champ and was lucky to pass through a town where I saw a 5sp manual setup from a eagle for a good price,  already pulled. so pretty pumped about that.

I forgot to grab the plate that goes between the bell housing and motor. but hes going to ship it.
Im sure its a non world class T5 and have not read a lot of great stuff on the t5 in general. I do like how light it is though. This car is more of a dirt road ripper then a rock crawler so not sure if Ill have issues with the t5 but to cover my bases for future power upgrades under the hood I think Ill try and go with an AX-15. Ill have to do some homework though and see if it will bolt to that bell housing, also what transfer case Ill need to search for since Ill be upgrading that at the same time of the trans swap. A new driveshaft will be needed also Im sure. 

Not rushing into this project just yet since I still have that 8.8 and front diff to get in first.

until then the TF998 in there now will do just fine.   Had to jump on that manual find, last piece of the puzzle.

What trans would you run?   

If I went the AX15 route would all this stuff be pointless to have (bell housing specifically) except the pedal set up?

Should I find a worldclass T5 to put in and call it good?

also see anything I may be missing for the swap?

I do like the idea of a t5 but dont like the idea of it breaking if i want to have some fun dumping the clutch and giving it a little heck.

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[TEagle85]

Got the add-a-leaf added to my spring pack and the 8.8 mounted underneath to get a idea of ride hight and to adjust the pinion angle before I tack the perches and shock mounts with the welder.

Do not like how high it sits now in the rear, I know the front will lift a inch or so once I get those new springs in but still too high for my liking. I think the stance was perfect before but maybe up a inch.

I think Im getting at least 1 or 1.5 from the swap alone. The new perches sit about a inch higher then the stock Dana 35. Also the thicker axle tubing on the 8.8 has to account for something.

Ill remove the add a leaf from the pack and set aside for the future if needed. Maybe Ill cut it down and add to the second spot.
less lift but still some added strength? Mostly wanted it to be able to take some weight in the rear while still being a little level. Air shocks are probably better for that Id guess.

The other spot Im keeping a eye on is the rear calipers and how close they are to the spring. I bounced the heck out of the rear with no interference and once the pinion angle is set Im afraid it might get closer. in that picture the pinion is pointed way higher then it will be set at, just from slipped a bit after rotating on the jack.

I remember having to push the leaf springs in a bit to get the pin to center on the dana 35 perches after I fabricated the rear shackles from the CJ7. Ill probably mount the new perches in a 1/4in in or so from there to give me a little more room. Then just force them in a tad when setting the axle in the last time.


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looks closer then it actually is at this angle.

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Also did I mention a church bus backed into me? His insurance is getting it so not worried.

[Run-AMC]

This is an excellent thread. The sedans always seem to look more menacing than the Wagons. Terrific work! Thank you for posting!

[jeanajavelin]

I too have a 1985 Fleet model Eagle.  Thought they were non existitant. What makes them a fleet model? I have enjoyed reading your progress on yours! It looks great!