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  • November 26, 2024, 03:40:37 PM

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Author Topic: MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING  (Read 3493 times)

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Offline doneagle

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MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING
« on: June 03, 2014, 08:02:04 AM »


          HI  bought silver a new battery ....the old one would not take a charge any more .I put the new one in and tried
                 it worked fine .....I let it site until plate time ,2 1/2 weeks it was dead the overhead light came on but when you turn key all you get is click ....I jumped battery and it started right up .....every day I started her just fine ...I let her sit for two weeks ....same thing light on and click click    so I started checking ....volt meter  on bat  plus to solenoid and no draw ...and then to negative to ground no draw ....I have checked the car after dark and no lights on .....the starter was slow so it has a new one ....alternator is one year  old and good ....all the door switches and hatch work fine .under hood light works fine ....the radio is different some time it works some times it goes in and out and some times it doesn't work at all .....the rest of the car is in good shape ......I need help I don't have mush hair left ...


                                                                 :banghead:                                                  ....don
HI.....A BAD DAY WITH YOUR EAGLE IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK ...A GOOD DAY WITH YOUR EAGLE IS PRICELESS

There are Eagles lovers and there are the uneducated and the best we can do
with them is try to EDUCATED them on the virtues of the BEUTEFULL cars that we drive   ...................don

Offline Mernsy

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Re: MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2014, 08:23:33 AM »
You can't check for drain that way with a voltmeter. You need an ammeter connected between a battery cable and the respective battery post.
Alternately, you can touch the cable to the post and watch for sparks. There may be a small spark if you have a clock or radio with presets. A large spark is a large draw. If so pull fuses one at  a time and check the spark each time. When it goes weak you have found the at fault circuit.

« Last Edit: June 03, 2014, 04:00:21 PM by Mernsy »

Offline eaglefreek

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Re: MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2014, 09:45:33 AM »
I would like to add. When a battery won't take a charge, it is usually the charger and not the battery. Most chargers won't charge a battery if it is under 10V. What you do is hook another charged battery to the dead battery and then connect the charger. Once the dead battery gets over 10v you can disconnect the good battery. Also, I prefer to charge a dead battery vs jump if at all possible. Charging a low battery could shorten  the life of your alternator.
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Online vangremlin

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Re: MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2014, 11:10:04 PM »
I would like to add. When a battery won't take a charge, it is usually the charger and not the battery. Most chargers won't charge a battery if it is under 10V. What you do is hook another charged battery to the dead battery and then connect the charger. Once the dead battery gets over 10v you can disconnect the good battery. Also, I prefer to charge a dead battery vs jump if at all possible. Charging a low battery could shorten  the life of your alternator.

Good tip!  I had not heard of connecting the dead battery to a charged battery and then connecting the charger.  Thanks!
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Offline carnuck

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Re: MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2014, 01:11:54 AM »
I've done that many times with "modern" chargers. First, check the battery voltage when it won't start. Cheapo digital multimeter from Harbor Freight is usually less than $10 and accurate enough for this test. Check a known good, fully charged battery. It should read about 12.6 volts if full. 12.3 is partially charged and it drops from there. An ammeter (mine has a low amps setting. Read the directions) between the removed battery cable and post will show if there is a draw.
   Interior light NOT going off will drain the battery. Mercury switch for the under the hood light will too. Missing a ground wire from the battery negative to the body (one to the motor can't feed back the lights, etc without it) will cause undercharging too. While running the alt should be making about 13.8-14.6 volts at idle depending what accessories are turned on. Loose or worn too narrow belts can cause slippage (even without noise) and not allow the alt to charge.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline doneagle

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Re: MY NEW BATTERY LAST TWO WEEKS OF SEETING
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2014, 10:44:56 AM »


             HI   I don't have time to answer all right now I have to go to a another doctor today  I don't know what is going to happen or get back time later .....don   
HI.....A BAD DAY WITH YOUR EAGLE IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK ...A GOOD DAY WITH YOUR EAGLE IS PRICELESS

There are Eagles lovers and there are the uneducated and the best we can do
with them is try to EDUCATED them on the virtues of the BEUTEFULL cars that we drive   ...................don

 

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