ECM Test bypass

[luvmyeagle]

does anyone have detailed info on doing the ECM Test bypass?  have thought about doing it as i am having problems with the car ( 85 eagle) losing power then taking off...have replaced numerous things..pick up coil, plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and ignition control module........also put on rebuilt  non-feedback carb which needs to be tweeked.   also read where computer still controls timing even if carb is not hooked up.......any comments or help would be greatly appreciated.      does the ECM Test bypass work?

[Mernsy]

Try this;

http://amceaglesden.com/guide/index.php?title=Diagnostic_ECM_Test

[luvmyeagle]

how do i do it with the non feedback carb i have on now....since this has no stepper motor?

[Mernsy]

Start at part 4 of the how-to.

[luvmyeagle]

which one would apply to my '85 eagle?

[Mernsy]

You;ll probably have to go by the colour of the wires. Match your car to the drawing.

[19835spdsportwagon]

So my first and only Eagle ran ok when I bought it for only a couple of days.... I knew the carter was probably all gummed up, as it was stored winters for the last 5 yrs. I replaced fuel filter, pcv valve, pcv filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires. The p.o. had the curb idle screw cranked way in to compensate for what I thought a lack of a stable smooth idle. Well within a stop sign it got worse! It couldn't idle on its own, stumbling and crappy until I got rpm's up past idle circuit in the carb. So I read about bypass and decided to do that as well as pulled the venturi assembly and drilled out the idle tubes to .032".

The orifice in the tubes is so small it gets plugged easily and quickly, this was definitely the idle problems fix. I used a hand micro drill bit kit, make sure you clean tubes really well and blow everything out with compressed air. I emptied my fuel filter and filled it with straight seafoam so from the filter to the idle tubes would initially get straight cleaner. Did the bypass at the module/inner fender, purple from dist to 'T' into purple before the connector, orange from dist to light green after the connector.
Make sure your choke plate is wide open when the throttle is wide open. Adjust rod if necessary. Set the inner fast idle screw onto the 2nd step to your left from the rear of the carb that's where you set your high idle speed. When you push your foot to the floor it will set the carb at your high idle then you tap the throttle to kick it off and down to curb idle speed.
Set the outer curb idle speed screw so its just touching the stop and turn in maybe a quarter more.
Both idle mixture screws turned out 3 turns should ensure a start.
I used an external tach and a vacuum gauge, so the highest vac reading and idle by adjusting mix screws, then set idle speed. Check timing as my vac needle was a little bouncy and proper timing and mix adjustment brought a steady vac reading of 19" at idle.
So I'm at about 21 degrees timing, 19" vac at idle and my idle speed is steady 680 rpm smmoooth as butter, no pinging with pulling I6 power. It's so quiet I think its stalled again until I look at the tach.
I told my buddy about it who had the same prob for years and we did the same to his YJ jeep, it's never idled or run better just like my Eagle!

[eaglefreek]

Yes, the Carters work great when they are in tip top shape. My dad had an 83 Concord back in the 80's and I remember that car running smooth like it had EFI.

[carnuck]

I just unplugged mine and ran that way for 3 years ('83 Cherokee and '83 Eagle with 4.2) after making sure the carb through screws weren't loose or bad vacuum lines. I also cross #1 and #6 plug wires at the cap to backfire the dirt out.