Replacing Ball Joints on 83 SX/4

[Speedy Eagles]

I found out my wheel was bent that's why the car shook at highway speed.  My drivers side upper ball joint creeks when I go over any bump.  I got the car a year ago and have been just working on it. I don't know how long it was driven by the previous owner with a bent front rim. What else could cause the shake/what other common parts to wear from this issue?

I have been reading up on balljoint replacement is it best to replace all four at once? 
When doing this repair is there a way to avoid needing to realign my car?  The car doesn't pull to either side and rides straight down the road.

[TLC87Eagle]

Ball Joints should fix your problem, it's good practice to just change them all while you're in there, so you won't have to worry about them. The factory ones are riveted in, but they've probably been changed before using bolts, so that shouldn't be an issue.

 It shouldn't need realigned if you just change ball joints, but outer tie rods and the pitman arm are also common parts that wear out. Replacing the tie rods will usually require realignment even with careful marking of original position. Changing the steering stabilizer and strut rod bushings can also help driveability issues, and won't need realignment (except maybe for caster, which is a non tread-wearing adjustment)

Hope this helps.  

[carnuck]

I'd get another rim or switch the front tire to the back

[maddog]

i need to replace the ball joints on Eagle Eyes myself and i was wondering if a carpenters hammer would work instead of a sledge hammer as that is all i have.

[TLC87Eagle]

i need to replace the ball joints on Eagle Eyes myself and i was wondering if a carpenters hammer would work instead of a sledge hammer as that is all i have.

I'd invest in a pickle fork, they come in handy a lot to change steering and suspension parts.

[maddog]

i already have one but i was told i needed a sledge to pound it in to place that's why i asked whether a carpenters hammer would work or not.

[TLC87Eagle]

i already have one but i was told i needed a sledge to pound it in to place that's why i asked whether a carpenters hammer would work or not.

Oh gotcha, you could use a carpenters hammer if you're really careful and it's heavy enough.
I usually use a 32 oz. Ball Peen myself.
Never had to break out the 10 lb sledge for any work on my Eagle yet.  

[maddog]

it's about a ten pound hammer so i think it might work as for being careful then i'm in trouble as i am somewhat clumsy.

[TLC87Eagle]

Yeah, safety is key when popping ball joints.
Sometimes they don't take a lot, and sometimes they really need smacked. 

[jim]

Wear goggles.  Carpenter hammers are made for hitting milder steel (nails) and may chip when used for mechanical work.  It can make them less than perfect for pounding in nails, also.  That having been said, I've gotten by with it many times.  I'm not a good enough carpenter to worry about my hammer being perfect, though I have known carpenters who would hurt you if you used their hammer for hitting anything other than nails and boards.

[maddog]

my carpenters hammer has a lifetime warranty on it so i'm not to worried about damaging it. also it has already been used to pound out my racecars body panels as well as flattening much harder metals without damaging it so i think it will hold up.

[txjeeptx]

You can use a pair of vise grip pliers as a handle for the pickle fork so you wont smack yer hand with the hammer when you miss(notice I didn't say "if").

[BenM]

After a couple of stubborn ones I've moved to a puller style tool. I've found it much easier, and it allows you to reuse ball joints if your only pulling things apart for some other task.

[maddog]

txjeepetx i like the idea of using the vice-grips because i'm pretty sure the first couple of attempts would end with a trip to the emergency room for a broken bone.
BenM that ain't a bad idea but since they are shot and i don't have the money for a puller i think i'll just use the pickle fork for now.

[carguy87]

Better than puller and pickle fork, at least cheaper, take a hammer and give a few well placed wacks to the knuckle right where the ball joint goes in.  It will usually pop out within 5 or so.  If it's a particularly stubborn one, it helps to have a little load on it to help release it, like using the 2x4 under the arm and a prybar on the lower control arm.