NEEEED HELP ASAP!!!!! My eagle has blown its tranny!!!!

[Coltonoo]

alright well then in that case I have just found a 904 from a 83 CJ with the wheel drive TC is that also a direct bolt up or not ?
I feel im getting close to a decision  here 

[Coltonoo]

ill have to show you pictures of the old case and sprag that where completely shattered when I go back to the shop later today its amazing that some one with their license would do such a thing especially after telling him while driving up the mounting what I had just had done to the tranny and how much I love this car yada yada yada

[eaglefreek]

Here's a quote from this website on how to tell if it is a lockup or non lockup trans. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/20.html

"With the trans out, and converter off the input shaft, a lock-up will have a smooth area on the end of the input shaft (no splines) for about 3/4", then the splines begin. Also, there will be a thru hole in the end of the input shaft lengthwise. The non-lock-up will have splines to the end of the input shaft and no thru hole. If the trans is in the car, pull the pan, and the valvebody. If it has a "S" shaped hollow tube on the top of the valvebody, it is a lock-up. "

[eaglebeek]

Also I have already put the howell TBI FI on my eagle along with having purchased a 258/4.0 conversion head from clearwater on ebay. that will be install after I get the tranny in. that being said does that extra 15 or so HP that the 727 takes to run make that much of a difference even with all the mods I have done ? wont it give me more climbing and towing capability ? if not ill keep looking for a core for my 998

Once you have a lockup you will wonder how you got along without it. It results in better fuel mileage and less heat rejection into the cooling system. In my mind installing a lockup will be an upgrade.

[mudkicker715]

Also I have already put the howell TBI FI on my eagle along with having purchased a 258/4.0 conversion head from clearwater on ebay. that will be install after I get the tranny in. that being said does that extra 15 or so HP that the 727 takes to run make that much of a difference even with all the mods I have done ? wont it give me more climbing and towing capability ? if not ill keep looking for a core for my 998

Once you have a lockup you will wonder how you got along without it. It results in better fuel mileage and less heat rejection into the cooling system. In my mind installing a lockup will be an upgrade.

maybe if you drive with atennis ball under mr. lead. otherwise it is an inferior tc that is prone to breaking.

[carnuck]

Ok so I have been hitting my head on this for some time . About two months ago I go driving up guardsmen's pass here in Utah to help pull a friends Firebird out of ditch. Long story short I let my friend get behind the wheel when I went to go check the slack in the tow cables and for some reason he thought it would be a brilliant idea to floor the gas and move the shifter from P in to D consequently destroying the case and along with filling the torque convert up with metal shavings and destroying a few of the one way gears. Wait it gets better I had just had this transmission professionally rebuilt with a lifetime warranty for about 1600$ which is now null and void since the damage was self inflicted. So now here I am almost 3 months latter unable to find a replacement case for my 904
At this point I will take any thing I am looking for another 904 that I can just swap in until I have the money to have it rebuilt as well or if any one has a spare 904 case laying around. Also does any one know if their are any direct transmission swaps for the 258 that do no require any kind of adapter plate or modifications. I have read around the web that a 727 bolts up the same and is the same dimensions and length as the 904 is this true ?

727 from a Grand Wagoneer (or any '80 or newer FSJ with driver's side front driveshaft) does bolt directly in with a few caveats. Flexplate needs to have the dual bolt pattern. Linkage from the 998 needs to be swapped to the 727.

[carnuck]

maybe if you drive with a tennis ball under mr. lead. otherwise it is an inferior tc that is prone to breaking.

Not so much a problem with a 727 setup. The neck of ALL 9XX converters is the weak point.

[carnuck]

alright well then in that case I have just found a 904 from a 83 CJ with the wheel drive TC is that also a direct bolt up or not ?
I feel im getting close to a decision  here 

Only if it's from a 4.2L with 23 spline output (same as yours for length too)

[carnuck]

I believe the 727 out of the Grand Wagoneer will bolt up, but I'd like to hear it from others on the forum as I'd hate to see you spend the money only to find I'm wrong.

The transfer case you use now requires a decision.

The Wagoneers had a two-speed transfer case with either an open differential or "conventional" 4-wheel-drive, while the original Eagle transfer case was a single-speed. The vacuum actuator from the Wagoneer that engages 4-wheel-drive should be usable in an Eagle. You will need to fabricate some sort of linkage so you can shift between low- and high-speed. Your existing drive shafts should be OK as they are. Depending on the transfer case that's behind the Wagoneer transmission you may lose full-time 4-wheel-drive, meaning on dry pavement you have to shift out of 4-wheel drive.

I believe the single-speed original Eagle transfer case will bolt to the 727. Eagles built in or before 1985 have a viscous coupling in the transfer case that allows full-time 4-wheel-drive.

Now for the decision...

 

You also need to swap the front yoke from the NP1XX in the Eagle to the FSJ NP2XX case (unless it's an NP208, which is 5 inches shorter, so you'd also need a longer rear driveshaft) AND switch the NP1XX tailcone to the NP2XX so your speedometer works.

[carnuck]

OK now we are cookin with gas here



"I hope you mean, until your so-called "friend" coughs up the cash to have it rebuilt.  He should cover every last dime of this" seeing as how I just got this person a job he is going to defiantly be paying for any cost I incur during this repair I just need a pile of receipts to throw at him first haha.



Now as for the Decision

I pretty positive it is only the eagles from 80 to 84 that had the full time AWD with out the select drive so would I be able to take the T case and tail from my 998 and put it on the bell housing for the 727 ?
? I need some feed back on this asap I need a car to get to work and need to get this fixed soon I have been driving a expired registered car for the last three months.

'80/81 Eagles had NP119 (aka New Process Quadratrac, not to be confused with '73 to '79 Jeep Borg Warner 1339 Quadratrac. Only the name is the same) full time 4x4. Late '81 to end of production had NP129 with NP128s (same thing as NP129, but no viscous coupler) around '86. The vacuum front axle with the NP129 (aka stop and shift) went away mid '85 and they went back to non-vac front axles for shift on the fly.
   Almost nothing internally on the 9XX will fit the 727 (trans filter is the only thing I can think of) If you unbolt the trans from the tcase at the round patterned joint, the Eagle tcase bolts up to the 727 (but the FSJ low range is a very nice addition for pulling stuff by doubling your power to the wheels)
   Someone on here emailed me about the '99 Wrangler 999 bare trans case I have for sale (they have a bolt in rear sprague clutch for strength after '91) which has the hole for a crank position sensor.

[carnuck]

Ok I just found a 727 from a 84 v8 jeep grand wagoneer is this a straight bolt up except for the dips stick for the AMC 258 ?

If you can find the trans stick from a 6 cyl '80 up Jeep with 727, it's easiest. I re-bent the 9XX one and it weeps now and then which is annoying.

[carnuck]

"You have a 998 which is a basically a 904. A jeep 998 or 999"

Perfect that works but what about the 727 from the wagoner will that be a straight bolt in and I can still use the 2x4 and 4x4 select drive I just wont have access to the low range in the 229 or am I stuck in 4x4 all the time ? if not can I take the 128 from the eagle 904/998 and put it on the 727 case with the eagle tail housing ? or would it be best just to use the 727 if its indeed a direct bolt in minus having to adjust the filler tube. I am going to pull it tomorrow if I can but I want to make sure I am getting the correct part before I go running off to pick and pull at 8 AM in my buddy's cargo van

The difference between a 904/909 and 998/999 is this: The rear band is wider inside for strength. (909 is the lockup 904 used with the 4 cyl and V6 in XJs)

[carnuck]

I'm just going by what others who have swapped in a 727 have told me. However, some have said they didn't notice a difference when they switched to a 727. The internals are physically larger and heavy and require more HP to turn and combined with the higher first gear ratio, I honestly don't see how a difference can't be felt. The 998 with a trans cooler will do just fine pulling whatever the Eagle's body and suspension can handle. As long as some moron doesn't slam it into drive from a dead stop and revving the engine.

Mine is a little slower on takeoff, but I'm curing that with 3.08 gears instead of the current 2.72s but I'll lose some again when I switch to 235/75R15 tires. I'll actually be equal to 2.89 ratio with stock tires so I'll still gain a little takeoff power.