TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY REMOVAL

[hanajack]

The following observations and questions are with the transmission in the car and the oil pan removed.

1.    The manual says to “loosen clamp bolts and remove throttle and manual valve control levers from the valve body shafts”.   Nothing  in the M. R. 251 manual shows or describes where these are located and I can’t identify them visually?
2.   “Remove the neutral start switch”.  This is easily identified but I don’t see a means to remove it?
3.   The manual shows a special tool  #J-24031, and it’s application, which is a rather simple feeler gauge to adjust the throttle pressure.  Not having that tool, what is its thickness?

Any help, tips or information appreciated.

[carnuck]

pic of the linkage "clamps" on top of the driver's side

NSS unscrews. I forget what size socket.

no idea on the last one. I do it all by feel these days. 30+ years of pulling wrench and you can tell what feels right. If you have lockup, I get the kit (spring and plate for @$10) that delays lockup to slightly higher speed.

[hanajack]

Ah ha!  I assumed the lever clamp bolts were inside, since I'm looking at the trans from the bottom with the pan removed.  {Appears one bolt holds both levers?}

Ref. the NSS:  there is little room to get at it with a socket, but, trying to remove the plastic  cap for the wire connection I think will destroy it; looking at it from inside, it is activated by a "slide paddle", somewhat flexible at one end, and I don't see why it needs to be removed to get the valve body out?

Apparently my '84 has a lockup but don't really know what a lockup is.  Would it affect slippage/hesitation shifting from 2nd to drive?

Without knowing the thickness of that gauge, guess I won't be able to adjust the throttle pressure once I get the valve body out.

[carnuck]

Ah ha!  I assumed the lever clamp bolts were inside, since I'm looking at the trans from the bottom with the pan removed.  {Appears one bolt holds both levers?}

Ref. the NSS:  there is little room to get at it with a socket, but, trying to remove the plastic  cap for the wire connection I think will destroy it; looking at it from inside, it is activated by a "slide paddle", somewhat flexible at one end, and I don't see why it needs to be removed to get the valve body out?

Apparently my '84 has a lockup but don't really know what a lockup is.  Would it affect slippage/hesitation shifting from 2nd to drive?

Without knowing the thickness of that gauge, guess I won't be able to adjust the throttle pressure once I get the valve body out.

2 bolts. One on each lever. If there is only one on the bottom lever, we may have found your problem!
Lockup is that extra "thud" as you hit 45 and it suddenly slows down. It's in the torque converter.
If you are careful about the plastic on top of the valvebody that operates the NSS, you can pull it out without removing the switch. If you bust the plastic, starting in park neutral and/or reverse lights may not work

[hanajack]

All good information.
I spent a long time trying to get the one lever bolt I could see loose.  The oil lines and front drive shaft are in the way even for a 1/4 inch drive, extension and swivel union.  I think I'm going to pass on the valve body removal.  I wanted to check it out for correctness, adjustment and debris - having changed the filter 5 times there is still debris - where is it coming from?   The radiator cooler is now clear.  With a fresh filter the trans works well for a while.  I did add a drain plug.  May post some tips on that.

I think only certain years had a lockup which makes me wonder why it exists?

[carnuck]

It was early years and the fluid and clutches weren't quite ready for prime time. You can rotate the linkage to get to the bolt head.