Doing an alignment can be affected by many things. Worn bushings, saggy springs, extra weight in the vehicle, empty tank of gas, and bad tires. I will reference these on an Eagle. Soft coil springs or leaf springs will allow one side of the vehicle to drop causing a change in the camber and caster on both sides, positive on one side, negative on the other. Too much weight in the vehicle, say you have 5 bags of water softener salt in your trunk when you get it aligned, will actually change the height of your front end, in turn changing caster, camber, and toe. If you get it aligned like this, when you take the weight out for normal driving, you measurements can become out of specifications. Fuel can do this too, at 6-7lbs a gallon, you can have 140 extra or less lbs. in your rear. Most alignment techs prefer you to have a normal load in your car, nothing you wouldn't carry every day, and about a half tank of gas. Tires, quite controversial, but still have an affect. I have done many tests and found this to be about .5 degree at most, but that .5 degree can change a wheel that doesn't return after turns, to a wheel that returns like it should. You generally want to have a pair of EVENLY matched tires on both axles. Front to back can be off slightly from what the manufacturer suggests, but your side to side have to be the same size, same brand preferred, as not all 235/75/15 tires are actually the same width or height from one brand to the other. The problems come when you have two mismatched tires; different heights, different tread design(winter vs. all-weather), and one new tire and one used tire with belt showing.
The most commonly overlooked item, and one of the most important, is TIRE PRESSURE. All tires should be filled to the recommended specs, or your preferred specs.