Well, the battery light issue has been solved. I managed to get some time under the hood this week. Lots of things went wrong all at once. First, the battery lead to the HEI came off of the clip. Re attached with solder. Then I replaces the ground strap and the ground cable from the battery. Then, I noticed that one of the wires going into the two wire clip on the alternator was loose and broke off when I removed it for inspection. Re attached to clip with solder. Cleaned up the old dielectric grease and applied new grease. The little flickering red light is now finally off.
However, the oil pressure gauge is still not working. After I replaced all the ground connections, the gauge worked for a couple of days then just quit. I have tested the gauge dial itself with power and the needle jumps right across the face. So, that part is working. Any ideas
I also had a leak develop in the brake line on the rear brakes where the hard line attaches to the flex line across the axle. This caused the brake pedal to hit the floor almost when the fluid pumped out. It also had the unfortunate effect of tearing up the seals in the master cylinder
. So, $560 later, I now have a new master cylinder and brakes that work 100% again. I also found a leak in the header of my radiator. The guy at the shop was able to price out a rad for me at $465. I have a friend who works at a car dealership as a service underwriter. He found the same rad for $288. No brainer there. So, a new rad is in the works for me in the near future. I also have to replace the pittman arm and idler arm as well. This is turning into an expensive February!
Getting back to the oil pressure gauge not working, could it be the connector plug for the gauge package? Is there a ground wire in that collection of wires that is not making contact?? If there is, where does it ground itself? I cannot see anything under there that looks like an obvious ground connection.
Thanks